One way that the BBS02 middrive unit shines over other competition like the Bosch is the ability to program the controller yourself. Although the process of programming the controller will void any warranty that you got with the unit, to many people the risk of voiding their warranty is outweighed by the possibility of getting more performance or having the PAS settings more to their liking. There are 3 settings that the most reputable resellers of the BBS02 will set for you.

• Low Voltage Shutoff (in Volts)
• Limited Current (in Amps)
• Speed ​​Limit

Update: The BBSHD is programmed the exact same way as the BBS02 with the exception of the Limited Current (Amps) which should be set to 30 not 25.

Many US vendors will be resistant to remove the 20mph speed limit as that may make them liable for any accident you are in with their motor. The BBS02 at 750Watts is really only powerful enough for about 25mph or so on level ground, although with a 52T chainring on a downhill stretch I have reached 40mph. At higher speeds your batteries get used up very fast.

It can be somewhat confusing as many of the settings on the drive controller have a setting of ‘ By Display's Command‘ which means the controller on the drive until will defer that setting to whatever the display is set to. There are 3 different displays which all have different settings on them and ways to set different variables like wheel diameter, speed limit and PAS levels. For instruction manuals for all three display types look . The C965 and C963 are generally set to 5 PAS levels, although the C961 is easily set to 9. You can also adjust the C965 PAS levels up to 9. The last page after the Password has been entered is the PAS page, it can be adjusted up to setting “0-9”.

Your controller will have silicone all over the connectors and will be far less pretty than this one (notice I didn’t say ugly, I hated being called ugly when I was a kid).

Before you start programming your controller, here are some important quotes from Paul at em3ev.

• “The PAS functions like a switch, it either assists at a certain speed and current percentage or it doesn’t. It is on or off. The motor does not know how hard or how soft you are pedaling, it is not assisting you, it is not reacting to your behavior. It only knows that you are pedaling or you are not. The only change in the so-called assistance, is because the motor has been moved to a different point on the motors power curve and that is not a programmable parameter, it is just a case of pedaling that bit closer to the no load speed of the motor/controller combination, where the motor will deliver less torque and therefore less power. That is why the PAS settings are best left pretty much like they come from the factory, with gradually increasing speed and corresponding increases in current values ​​too, as you go from steps 1 through to 9”
• “Users can change the LVC, change the current level (reduce it preferably)”
• “Users can also change the speed limit to be controlled by the display (but that does leave the kit more liable to blow).”
• “Setting the throttle to 100% and without speed limit is what everyone wants, but is also a good way to blow the controller.”
• “Once anything is increased, or the response is made faster, the controller is more liable to blow. Setting every PAS level to 100% is a terrible idea.”

A smaller chainring is critical for singletrack riding controller conservation. I prefer the 34T Raceface narrow\wide ring.

The biggest problem with the BBS02 is when it is turning under too much load at too low of a speed. The best way to keep the motor spinning fast is to get a smaller chain-ring and to make sure you are in the right gear for any hills you want to climb. The surest way to blow your controller is to use full throttle in too high of a gear on a hill where the pedals are turning too slowly. If you use a large chain-ring on your commuter (mine is a 52T because I like to go fast) make sure you shift down into a lower gear before coming to a stop even on level ground so you are not repeatedly trying to start moving in too low of a gear. Your pedaling cadence should always feel normal to fast, especially on hills.

Another strong recommendation for not frying your controller is to install a temperature probe. Instructions on how to do this are and it takes about 7 minutes to do and costs $2 shipped.

A $2 temp probe can save your $80 controller and a lot of headaches.

In order to program your BBS02 you will need a windows PC with a USB port, a programming cable (from Empowered Cycles) and the software. More info on those three items can be found in this article.

Clicking READ FLASH or WRITE FLASH buttons changes or reads values ​​from all 3 tabs at the same time. You should always click READ FLASH, then FILE->SAVE as a .el to make a back up copy before making any changes to your current settings.

There are 3 pages of programming variables. You can click READ for each page but it will only load the current settings on the controller on that page before you change them. Sometimes the serial connection is unreliable and a variable will have a totally wrong setting or garbage in it. I suggest clicking the READ button twice before you start changing the settings to make sure it read the controller settings correctly. I’ve never had garbage persist through 2 READ clicks, it always seems to get it right on the 2nd try. When you edit the variables you want you will then need to click the WRITE button for each page you change or WRITE FLASH for all pages. I would click the READ button again on each page after waiting a few seconds to make sure that the settings you changed were actually written to the controller firmware when you clicked WRITE.

Programming cable that plugs into the display port of the BBS02 from Matt at EMPowered Cycles

Variables are color coded based on how safe they are to modify

• Green variables are safe to change
• Orange variables can be changed but there is some risk
• Red variables should never be changed unless you know something that I don’t

The color of the variables are what defaults from various drive units as well as the .el configuration file for each vendor. You must save the file to your drive then rename it from .doc to .el then FILE->LOAD it directly into the Bafang program. All variables will be automatically set on all three pages and you only need to WRITE FLASH to write it to the controller.

• Black is for em3ev settings. .el File is
• Blue is for Lectric Cycles e-RAD settings.
• Brown variables and text is EMPowered Cycles settings & quotes. .el File is
• Purple variables and text is Kepler from Endless-sphere’s settings & quotes. .el File is
• Aqua variables and text is Karl’s special sauce, which are pretty much the only settings I ever use. The .el file for the BBS02 is located and the BBSHD is located .

These .el files are designed for the BBS02 but work just as well for the BBSHD. If you use them with a BBSHD make sure to change the Limited Current(A) on the first page to 30 amps. You do not need to lower the amps on the BBSHD, it can do 30 amps all day long without breaking a sweat.

BASIC TAB

Special Sauce Basic Settings for the BBS02, the BBSHD would want 30 Amps

Listed below are the settings and what little we’ve learned about them. This article will be updates as we experiment more.

Low Battery Protect(Volts) : 41/41 /41 /41 to 43 / 41 – This number will change based on the pack size and configuration. Most likely your battery will have a BMS that will shut off power when it gets too low. This setting is mostly useful when you are running a battery setup without a BMS which is not advised. Kepler notes

“I use 43V on my 14S 4P 18650 pack setup”

If you are running a 48v nominal pack you’ll want to set this a lot lower (like 38v) to keep the drive from shutting off when the pack still has a little juice in it.

Limited Current(Amps): 25/25 /18 /18 to 20/25 This sets the power level that the drive unit will pull from the battery pack. Be aware that just because it is set lower, does not mean that it will not draw more amps for brief periods. If you don't want to stress the BMS you may want to set this number lower than you think it should be by 2-3 amps then slowly increase it over time if your $15 watt meter shows that it is not pulling too much power on a regular basis. This variable will be set lower than 25 if you have a BBS01 or a BBS02 with a lower power level rating than 750W. If this is set lower than 25 from the factory you CANNOT RAISE it safely unless you are sure it is a 750 Watt unit & controller and your battery can handle the draw (it should say on the bottom of the unit). Matt from Empowered Cycles has this to say:

“I recommend 18 amps in most cases. You still get amazing performance, extended controller life, more charge cycles from your pack, more range on your rides. If you have an internally geared hub, I recommend 15 amps and changing the “start current” on pedal assist and throttle all the way down to the lowest setting of 1. Even at 18 amps the 750 watt motor keeps up with an 8T geared MAC hub motor that is pulling 1500 watts. You do not need 25 amps for this motor to perform.”

Kepler has this to say

“ I agree that 18 amps is a good all-round setting. I then rely on the Limit Current Assist level to fine tune the max power best suited to bike.”

If you have a BBSHD make sure that this is set to 30 and no lower.

Asst0 Limit Current(%): 1/0 /0 /100/1 – This is the setting for the PAS at level 0. The throttle might not work in PAS 0 unless this is set to 1 on more recent controllers. You must set limit speed to 1 as well as well as setting the Designated Assist to 9 on the throttle page.

Asst0 Limit Spd(%): 1/0 /0 /1/1 – At power level 0 causes the controller to lower current gently to maintain motor rpm when 44% of speed limit is hit. Speed ​​limiting is done based on motor RPMs not road speed. The throttle might not work in PAS 0 unless this is set to at least 1, it is really nice to have a hand throttle setting without any PAS intervention.

Asst1 Limit Current(%): 52/20 /52 /10 /52 – Power cut based on road speed at power level 1.

Asst1 Limit Spd(%): 44/44 /36 /100/44 – Power cut based on motor RPM speed at power level 1.

Asst2 Limit Current(%): 58/20 /58 /20/58 – Power cut based on road speed at power level 2 if set to 9 power levels.

Asst2 Limit Spd(%): 51/51 /44 /100/51 – Power cut based on motor RPM speed at power level 2 if set to 9 power levels.

Asst3 Limit Current(%): 64/30 /64 /30/64 – Power cut based on road speed at power level 3 if set to 9 power levels.

Asst3 Limit Spd(%): 58/58 /52 /100/58 -Power cut based on motor RPM speed at power level 3 if set to 9 power levels.

Asst4 Limit Current(%): 70/40 /70 /40/70 – Power cut based on road speed at power level 4 if set to 9 power levels.

Asst4 Limit Spd(%): 65/65 /60 /100/65 -Power cut based on motor RPM speed at power level 4 if set to 9 power levels.

Asst5 Limit Current(%): 76/50 /76 /50/76 – Power cut based on road speed at power level 5 if set to 9 power levels.

Asst5 Limit Spd(%): 72/72 /68 /100/72 -Power cut based on motor RPM speed at power level 5 if set to 9 power levels.

Asst6 Limit Current(%): 82/60 /82 /60/82 – Power cut based on road speed at power level 6 if set to 9 power levels.

Asst6 Limit Spd(%): 79/79 /76 /100/79 – Power cut based on motor RPM speed at power level 6 if set to 9 power levels.

Asst7 Limit Current(%): 88/70 /88 /70/88 – Power cut based on road speed at power level 7 if set to 9 power levels.

Asst7 Limit Spd(%): 86/86 /84 /100/86 – Power cut based on motor RPM speed at power level 7 if set to 9 power levels.

Asst8 Limit Current(%): 94/80 /94 /85/94 – Power cut based on road speed at power level 8 if set to 9 power levels.

Asst8 Limit Spd(%): 93/93 /92 /100/93 – Power cut based on motor RPM speed at power level 8 if set to 9 power levels.

Asst9 Limit Current(%): 100/100 /100 /100/100 – Power cut based on road speed at power level 9 if set to 9 power levels.

Asst9 Limit Spd(%): 100/100 /100 /100/100 – Power cut based on motor RPM speed at power level 9 if set to 9 power levels.

A quick note on power levels. If your display is set to only use 3 power levels then the controller uses settings for Asst1, Asst5 and Asst9 and ignores all the rest. If it is set to 5 levels than it ignores every other power level setting (but uses Asst1\3\5\7\9). On the C963 display I have still not figured out how to set the display to 9 power levels, so you may be stuck with only 5 PAS power levels with that unit.

Wheel Diameter(Inch): 26/26/26/26/18 – Set this to whatever your wheel diameter is. I always set this number so that if the display is set to show kph that it really shows mph instead. For a 26″ fatbike tire that is about 18″.

Speed ​​Meter Model: ExternalWheelMeter/ ExternalWheelMeter / ExternalWheelMeter/ ExternalWheelMeter / ExternalWheelMeter– As far as I know this is the only speed sensor that is set up for the BBS02

SpdMeter Signal: 1/1 /1/1/ 1

PEDAL ASSIST TAB

Special Sauce PAS settings, the Bafang factory settings are unusable & dangerous

This page is for the Pedal Assist Settings. Change conservatively, make small incremental changes and test rather than large ones.

Pedal Type: DoubleSignal-24 \ DoubleSignal-24\DoubleSignal-24\ DoubleSignal-24 \ DoubleSignal-24– Unknown

Designated Assist: By Display's Command \ By Display's Command\ By Display's Command – This setting if set will override the Limit Speed speed limited on the Basic Tab.

Speed ​​Limited: By Display's Command \ By Display's Command \ By Display's Command \ By Display's Command \ By Display's Command – Cuts power when the road speed from the mag sensor hits the number set here. If set to By Display's Command then it uses the Display’s set speed limit.

Start Current (%): 10\50\40\30\10 -This variable is vital for not killing the controller. The lower the Start Current is set the less power is directed to the PAS system upon startup, this will create less strain on the controller when starting from a standstill, especially if you are in a gear that is too high. 100% Start Current will peak at well over 1kW draw. With Kepler's settings this should be set to 30% or less. This can be set all the way down to 1, very useful for IGH bikes and for people wanting a more gentle start

Slow-Start Mode(1-8): 3\ 4 \5 \6 \4 -Controls how quickly the power ramps and how much it overshoots. If this variable is set too high the PAS start will be jerky, if set too low you risk blowing the controller as with Start Current above. If you are in too low of a gear to start and this variable is set too low it can blow the controller.

Startup Level(Signal No.): 4\4\4\4\ 2 – The number of sensor steps before the start up commences. The maximum accepted is 20. 24 is a full pedal revolution. Too few makes start-up occur with too slight a pedal movement. Lower number is less pedal movement to start the motor. Does not work properly with 1 or 0.

Work Mode (angular Speed ​​of Pedal/wheel*10): Undetermined\Undetermined\10\10 \ Undetermined— Adjusts the amount of power that can be applied to each pedal rotation. The higher the number the greater the power applied to each rotation. This might affect at what rpm peak power sits in PAS operation, changing it doesn’t seem to be noticeable so we advise to leave it alone.

Time of Stop(x10ms): 25\25 \25 \25 \10 – This affects how quickly the drive stops after you stop pedaling. Some people report that setting this lower (as low as 5) may affect the startup delay on the throttle. If you set it to 0 the PAS system ceases to work. 25 is probably too high. This setting disables the PAS if it is set less than 5. I strongly recommend setting this to 5, especially if you want to use the PAS system without using ebrakes. If you set this less than 10 on the v2 of the BBS02 controllers then your PAS will not work properly at all. On the older BBS02v1 controllers and the BBSHD controllers you can set this as low as 5 before you start having issues with the PAS.

Current Decay(1-8) : 4 \8 \6 \8 \8 – Determines how high up the pedal cadence rpm range it starts to reduce power, 8 being the highest. There is no detail on actual rpm speeds for the Current Decay setting.The lower this setting is the sooner the drive unit will start cutting back on the power as you pedal faster.

Stop Decay(x10ms): 0\0 \0 \20 \0 – The amount of time the system takes to cut after pedaling stops. Lower is faster. Kepler says,

“I prefer a smooth stop transition. It is still quite quick to shut the drive down when you stop pedaling”

Current Decay settings mapped vs Power. Image from Ken Taylor on Endless Sphere

Keep Current(%): 60\60\60\60\80 – What this setting does when set at 60% is ramp the current down to 60% of the PAS level selected based on pedal cadence rpm, so at low pedal cadence you get 100% of the level selected but as your pedal cadence increases the power is reduced down to 60%. As you pedal faster the motor does less work down to whatever this number is set to (60% of max current or 15 amps on 25 Amp system).

THROTTLE HANDLE TAB

Start Voltage(x100mv): 11\11\11\11\11 – The is the throttle input starting voltage, the point at which the controller responds to input is at 1.1 volts, so set value to 11 which = 1.1 volts. As you begin to roll on the throttle the voltage moves up from zero and when it reaches 1.1v the motor begins to turn. Best to leave between 10 and 15. Too low and the display will throw an error as the motor will want to run continuously. If you change the throttle you will need to find the new lowest setting.

End Voltage(x100mV) : 35\35 \42 \35 \35 – You can set the max range to 42 which is the max input the controller accepts from throttle input 4.2v. If you set lower than this value your throttle response is not as linear or smooth as it could be. Matt suggests you set start voltage to 11 and end voltage to 4.2 for a wider range of throttle response and smoother control of motor output. If you use an aftermarket throttle you will need to test to see what voltage the hall sensor throttle is giving off at full throttle and set this number slightly lower than that voltage shown on the meter (times 10).

Mode: Current\Speed\Speed\Current\Speed– Switching this to Current Mode (instead of Speed ​​mode) has an improvement in the throttle response smoothness. If you change this then set the Start Current % on this page to 10 or less. Personally I prefer the intensity of the speed setting, although setting this to Current will be much easier on your controller. Some users of the newer BBS02’s say that the CURRENT setting can cause jerkyness with the throttle, in which case you should set it to SPEED mode.

Designated Assist: 9\9\9\9\9 – If you disable the PAS system (step 5 ) then this will give you the same number of levels of throttle power as PAS settings. If you don't disable the PAS system then you should probably set this to 9. If your bike is in a rental fleet and don't want to deal with fried controllers then you should set it to something much lower like 6. This setting if set will override the Limit Speed setting on the Basic Tab and also overrides the speed limited on the Basic Tab. If you set this to 9 be aware that you can and will fry your controller if you are in too high of a gear on too steep of a hill and you peg the throttle.

Speed ​​Limited: By Display's Command\40KmH \40KmH \40KmH\40KmH– Cuts power when the road speed from the mag sensor hits the number set here. If set to By Display's Command then it uses the Display’s set speed limit. However this setting can sometimes cause severe Throttle lag in PAS0 so if you set it to 40km/hr the 2-3 second throttle lag should disappear.

The speed limit only applies to the PAS and in ignored by throttle input, so in other words, if you want to go past the speed limit, just use the throttle. This is a setting that allows the rider to set a pace or cadence when using pedal assist for a comfortable steady pace. Almost like cruise control, when you begin to go past the speed, the motor cuts out to maintain a lower speed. It is a useful way to extend range. The max speed limit of the display is 45 mph.

Start Current(%): 10\10 \10\10 to 20\ 10 – Percentage current of available when throttle is initially applied. Unwise to raise beyond 20, but fine to lower, however motor will give less power when the throttle is engaged. If you set the throttle Mode to Current(which I think you should) you will want to lower this number substantially or it will be very jerky on startup. 5-10 gives a much smoother startup. This can be set all the way down to 1, great for IGH bikes and smoothing out power delivery.

So what do you recommend?

For smooth throttle control and less delay the Current Mode on the Throttle Handle Tab is the way to go, but you should keep the Start Current % low (below 10 is safe) otherwise the throttle is far too jerky and wheelie prone. If you want max power and torque then set the Throttle Handle to Speed ​​Mode.

I have 8 BBS02 controllers from various manufacturers and I’ve only had one controller failure from the first one I bought from elifebike . The two I have bought from Lectric Cycles and all the ones I have bought from Paul and Doug at California-Ebikes (which both use em3ev’s settings) have given my absolutely no problems. The Lectric Cycles settings has a jumpy throttle and a little throttle delay which could be corrected by switching the Throttle Mode to Current. I have hundreds of hours beating the living piss out of my drive units with em3ev’s and Lectric Cycles settings with no complaints and no controller failures. At this point I’ve set all my drive units to the “Karl’s Special Sauce” settings which is the only way to fly if you want max throttle power without blowing your controller and PAS that actually is usable.

There are plenty of people who say Kelper’s settings are very reliable, but I have not tried them yet so I cannot say. I would not advise using Kepler’s settings at a full 25 Amps, as you are asking for trouble. 100% Limit Speed at every PAS level at is going to put a serious load on the cheap-ass controller mosfets.

In some ways it’s great that we can get into the software and change so many of the settings for the BBS02. Along with this flexibility comes taking responsibility for the controllers and drive units we end up destroying by tweaking the settings. This guide is a way to share information that others have discovered the hard way, but by no means is definitive. All the information here could be wildly inaccurate as no one that I know of has received any real technical guidance from Bafang on how to program these units at all.

It broke, I fixed it with mosfets that didn’t totally suck. You can too if you visit and are good at following instructions and soldering.

Program at your own risk. Don’t program your controller, fry it, then try to get it replaced under warranty pleading innocence. If you fry your own controller then have the common deciency to spend the time and energy to fix it yourself or just suck it up and buy another one. Paul has had so many problems with people ripping him off by custom programming and frying their controllers and then trying to get free warranty replacements that he no longer warranties the individual controllers. Can you really blame him?

This article is the culmination of many hours of work and was contributed to by Paul(cellman) from em3ev, Matt from Empowered Cycles, kepler and drprox from Endless-Sphere and on ES. Many thanks to everyone who contributed. I could have done it without you but the results would have been really laughable.

UPDATE: A hacker from Norway named Penoff used the source code and completely rewrote the Bafang programming software. All the settings are the same but the software that Penoff has written fixes a lot of the annoying bugs (like the com ports not showing up properly) and works the way the original Bafang software SHOULD have worked. I’ve tested it pretty extensively and emailed back and forth with Penoff who seems to be a stand up guy. If you want to download his application you can do it through his website. You won't be disappointed.

In the article:

Today, a credit plastic card offers a lot of opportunities and prospects from the bank’s partner organizations. When used skillfully, it turns into an excellent financial tool. It is enough to activate a credit card once, and use it for up to a couple of decades. Subject to regular renewal and revolving credit limit. This is a card with the interesting name Benefit from Home Credit Bank.

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People use credit cards all over the world. Advice from American experts on proper use of credit cards.

Home BBS- about the unique capabilities of Home BBS.

▀ ▓ █████████▓▓▒░░ ▓ ░ ░░ ░░▒▒▒▓▓██▓░ ░▓█████ ███████████ Smont ,FOX ▀ ▀▀▀▀█▀▀▀▀ ▀ Home BBS ███████████▓▓▒▒░░░ ░ █ ░ ░ ░░ ░░▒▒▒▓▓▓███ ▓▓▒▒░░ ░ ░▒▓██████ ▀ --FOX> So, here Mont will tell you about the unique capabilities of his super bbs. Bbs has existed since the spring of 1999, and all this time it has uninterruptedly and continuously supported the life of C-NET. Moreover, it is the only one in Grodno and one of the few in the country (!) But at first it was conceived as a server for the AIS group - so that the group would work normally in this way, change software and create its own projects... So, a word to Smont: Everyone Hello! Here I will tell you about the services that I, (BBS), provide. This is that now the user can see the following message when logging in: Know that Eismont Andrey left the BBS 1:25 1 Dec SistemDisk01 What does this mean: 1. The user is so happy that while waiting for a connection to the BBS for an hour or more, he’s done I finally managed to get into the station. :))) He is angry about everything... and everything.... He curses all the users registered on the site, due to the fact that some of them occupied his favorite BBS for so long :) )) But having seen who was in front of him at the station and what time he ran away from it, he immediately becomes kinder knowing who to tell everything he thinks about him :))). I don’t know if anyone needs this or not, but I think it doesn’t interfere and is even interesting. :)))) What is “SistemDisk01” you ask? And I will answer that this is nothing more than a virtual TR-DOS disk, which is located on Scorpio’s broom and is currently connected to drive “C”. Its contents can be seen on my station if you read the directory of the "disk" aria. This is where the fun begins. The fact is that Scorpio is such a wonderful machine, especially with a broom, which allows you to connect any TR-DOS image coded on the broom through the program in codes without entering the shadow MONITOR. So I decided, why not make it so that the user, without disturbing the sysop, puts this or that software on the station, can find the program he is interested in and connect the disk image on which this program is located. Now the most important thing is How to do this ? There's nothing complicated. First, you need to download the file that is located in “common”, where you can find the programs available on the screw and on which TR-DOS image which is located. Then download another file, also in “common” with the name “TL DISK.W”, and see which disks the sysop has given access to (because, in fact, you can climb all over the broom and even connect disks that serve purely for work:(((((, and this is not desirable). If the program is located on a disk to which there is no access, then individually, just call the sysop by voice and get permission to connect the disk image of interest. If you approach this issue through a glass-sysop, it will not refuse :))). Well, the desperately needed program has been found, the disk on which it lies has been identified, and what next. And then it’s as easy as shelling pears. You need to type directly in the terminal and type the directory and disk number where the program is located, BUT before that do not forget to press the “&” symbol. Example: &LogikaDisk05 That's all... The only inconvenience is that the disk will not connect while on line with the station:(, for this you need, after ordering the disk, disconnect from the station and log in again. And if after the next time you log in, you will see the name of the exact image you ordered, then everything is OK, be sure that by going to the disk aria, you will find your program. Notes: The directory name must be exactly as written in the program list file on the HDD. Cases of lowercase and uppercase letters -are taken into account! The directory name must contain six characters! That is, if the name consists of less than six letters, then the missing characters must be added with a space! The word “Disk” must always be written this way and immediately after the sixth character of the directory. Mandatory, if the disk is ordered, before leaving the station you need to download or upload a file. Otherwise, the station will not restart :(. Well, that seems to be all. In the application you will find the latest catalog of my HDD. And lastly, I would like to tell you about one more service provided . Sometimes it is useful to leave some message to Users by a User who is on line. It's very easy to do. Write directly in the terminal - to whom the message is sent and from whom, and then the message itself. But just don’t forget to put markers before and after the message, in other words, “@” dogs. After leaving the station, your saved log will be scanned, the message will be highlighted (if any) and a separate file will be created with the name of the date and month of creation (01-12.W) and this file will be placed in the common aria. By logging in, the user following you will be able to download and read your message. Comfortable? I think so too:). With this, let me bow and say goodbye to you. See you at the next TargeT "e. And see you at HOME_bbs!!! For all questions, write by E-Mail or regular mail: 230012 Republic of Belarus, Grodno, Pushkina 34-46 Eismont Andrey I will answer everyone with pleasure! ─────── ──────────────────────────────────────── ────────── ─────── ■▀■■■■█▀■■▀ ■▀▀▀▀■▀■■ ■■▀▀■■█ ▀ ▀ ▀■ ■■▀ ▀■■■■▀▀ ▓ ▄ █ █ ▓ H O M E B B S █ ▀ ▓ ■▀■▀■▀■▀■▀■▀■▀■▀■ █ ▓ ▓ ■ ■ ▒ SysOP: Smont aka Eismont Andey ▓ ░ Work time: any day,23:00-2: 30 ▒ ░ ░ ▀ 33-76-29 ■ ░ ░ ■ ░ We invite! !! ░ ─────────────────────────────────────── ────────── ───────────────

Recommended reading for all those who have a home page on the Internet or have had one before, those who are planning to build one soon, as well as those who would like to make their own home page, but do not know how.

Now there will be a short introduction... To begin with, I will ask you this question: “Do you know what a BBS is?”

Quote from the ancient manuscript "FIDONET BEGINNER'S GUIDE" (dated 1991 AD):

"... As you know, since ancient times every person has strived to communicate with his own kind. For this purpose, the postal system, telephone, telegraph and other benefits of civilization were created. But, as a rule, such communication was limited to two interlocutors. And every person, as a rule , a speaker at heart: he needs an audience to whom he could express his thoughts, with whom he could argue, in general, this state of affairs in our age, when spaceships plow the vast expanses of the Universe, did not suit many. And so the group of those dying Out of longing for communication between computer owners, a brilliant idea came to mind: what’s stopping us from setting up something like a bulletin board, where everyone could “hang up notices” with their smart thoughts and read the smart thoughts of others. did not arise. No sooner said than done. The result exceeded all expectations! In addition to the opportunity to “chat,” there was a unique opportunity to jointly solve important problems, discuss new ideas, and exchange information. This is how BBS appeared. BBS stands for Electronic Bulletin Board System..."

Much water has passed under the bridge since then, and the boom of terminal BBSs in Russia took place somewhere in 1998-2000, just after the advent of the “system for housewives” - Windows 98 and the public Internet (accessible to housewives).

However, we must not forget that many BBCs are still working, and you can now safely call some BBC in your city and download something from there (and completely free).

The emergence of WEB-BBS-ok

But this is not a fairy tale, but only a saying. And this is where the very thing begins, which is why I wrote this article:

Recently, due to the emergence of new technologies, people have begun to remake BBSki into WEB-BBSki. You ask: "What does this mean?" Users usually access BBSes using a terminal program (such as HyperTerminal).

Apart from downloading files and reading mail, the BBS provides virtually nothing of its own. WEB BBS is an extension of the regular BBS, based on Internet standards.

When working with WEB BBS, the user no longer uses a terminal program, but a browser (for example, such as Internet Explorer).

Navigating WEB BBS reminds you of traveling on the Internet, i.e. you enter the desired URL into the browser and view the information received. WEB BBS, unlike BBS, can be designed as a website or portal.

Why do you need your own W-B?

Now THINK, doesn’t this WEB-BBS remind you of anything? Not buying yet? What about your home page, which you did a week (month, year) ago. WEB-BBS is the same home page for friends. Just to access it, you do not need to connect to the Internet. It is enough to call WB (call the same way as on the Internet via “Network and Remote Access to the Network”, the phone number is accordingly not Internet). And after connecting, type in the Internet Explorer address bar the address of W-B to which you connected.

The differences between W-B and your Internet page are huge. As a rule, free hosting gives you limited space for your website and does not allow you to use scripts (PHP, Perl). These features are only available on paid hosting services. In your home, the size of the site will be limited by the size of your hard drive. In addition to this, you can install any scripts on your site. That is, your home site can have its own forum, chat and much more. Naturally, there are also disadvantages.

• For example, an Australian or an American will not be able to access your W-B.
• Two people will not be able to log in to your W-B at the same time.

Think about it: how often do Americans visit your site, especially in a crowd of 20 people at once? If not, consider transferring your home page from some “public” hosting to your home, to your computer.

For the first time, my website openly talks about how to do this - everything is not as difficult as you think. In addition, if you do this, you will have experience configuring a web server, and this may be useful to you if you work as, say, some kind of administrator. Yes, even if you don’t work as an admin, it’s just interesting to look at the work of a web server, so to speak, from the inside. What benefit do you get from this? W-B is a new phenomenon and now few people have W-BBS. You will have something that others don’t have. You can create a full-fledged Internet portal at home, which your friends can access. And, if you open it for everyone, then other computer specialists in your city. A person connected to your W-B will be able to:

• Download from you and upload some useful programs to you.
• Chat with you if you deign to be present in the chat.
• Leave a message in the Guestbook or on the Forum.

This will be much more useful than a simple home page (after all, no one will upload anything to your page). What will it take to create a W-B?

• A computer with a modem and the Windows 2000 or Windows XP operating system installed (in general, Windows 98 and Linux are also suitable).
• Hands, preferably growing from where they need to be.

Attention!!! Your W-B will only work when your computer is on and your phone is not busy. Accordingly, you can enable it:

• When your friend (girlfriend) calls by voice and asks (then your W-B can be called private).
• During certain “working” hours (then your W-B can be called public).

It is unlikely that you will be able to do it around the clock at home (your relatives will not like it). But you can, if your relatives don’t mind, make it work at night. It is so accepted that most W-Bs work at night, for example, my W-B work hours are from 23:00 to 7:00 and you will not be an exception if you set yourself the same work hours. I will note: you will not need to sit at the computer all this time; it will be enough for it to be turned on. The next day you will be able to respond to messages left on your forum and collect the harvest of new files that you have grown overnight. That's all for now. If I interested you in this article, go to my website and read more about how to make your own WEB-BBS. By the way, this is so far the only site in RuNet dedicated entirely to WEB-BBS "cameras. My "Tutorial on creating W-B" is posted on the site. Now there is a half-draft version that needs improvement. However, with the help of this option you can make your own W-B is your real home page.

P.S: It’s not for nothing that the page is called “home” and not “national”. The point is that it should be in your home, and not in front of the People.

Material from Wikipedia - the free encyclopedia

The BBS user launches a terminal program, initiates a phone call to the BBS number in this program, after connecting, the BBS offers to log in (enter login and password) or register as a new user, and after the user has successfully logged in, it provides him with access:

• to a “bulletin board” where everyone or a select few can post news and announcements (BBSs began with this function);
• to thematic conferences (similar to modern web forums), with the development of BBS, conferences were distributed between BBSs via the Fidonet network and became known as echo conferences;
• to file sharing directories, each file is accompanied by a description and download counter; for users, the rating of downloads/downloads can be taken into account.

In addition to online access to conferences, methods have been developed to read conferences offline using QWK ( English) and Blue Wave ( English). The user connected to the BBS, downloaded a file package with messages to his computer, and disconnected. I read messages, wrote replies and new messages in the conference, which were then QWK or Blue Wave were collected in a package. During the most free time of the BBS, the user connected to the BBS again, uploaded a package with his messages to it, and downloaded a package with messages that other users had left on the BBS during the time that had passed since his previous call to the BBS.

To organize a BBS you need special software.

Performance

Working with most BBSs is done using a terminal program in text mode.

The modes that can be used are plain text (8-bit characters without color codes and screen clearing), ANSI (ASCII text extension with color highlighting, allowing the creation of pseudo-graphics) and AVATAR ( English) (a more efficient binary protocol with the ability to transmit raster graphics).

Later the RIPscrip protocol was developed ( English), supporting vector graphics and pointing input devices. The official RIPscrip editor was paid, and BBSs soon lost popularity to the World Wide Web with HTML.

Typical BBS Features

• File archives (on modem BBSes, files are usually first selected from those found by search [by name or description, sometimes masks are supported] or through a list, and then downloaded)
• Advertisements (can be shown, for example, at the entrance)
• Echoconferences (analogue on the Internet - usenet forums and conferences)
• Chat with other users on multi-line BBS - the ability to communicate with other connected users in real time (analogue on the Internet - Instant Messenger, IRC);
• Games - single-player and multi-player, including those with a single universe on several BBS. On some BBSes, games are able to change different limits (see access levels) depending on the results. Example of a gaming BBS:

Access levels

Each registered user on a BBS can have an access level set, usually from twit (the lowest level at which access is generally denied) to sysop (with full rights). Depending on this level, the time spent on line, the limit on downloading files, the ability to create messages, access to chat, etc. may vary.

BBS programs

Name	License	Platforms
Maximus	Until 2002 - commercial [How?] ; since 2002 - GNU GPL 2+
M.B.S.E.	GNU GPL
RemoteAccess BBS	Proprietary commercial (shareware?)
IN-MENU	Freeware
Synchronet ( English)	?; 2.30 - public domain [When?] ; 3 - GNU GPL 2+
Tornado BBS	source code 1.70 was opened by the author in 1999 (?)

Notable BBS

RF Moscow

• White Bear BBS, 2:5020/22 - the first multi-line BBS in Moscow, owned by JSC MCC "Variant". Later transformed into Internet provider DEOL.
• InfoScience BBS, 2:5020/238 - had about 14 lines with interline chat. Located at the Ministry of Science of the Russian Federation.

Ekaterinburg

• • 8BBS 2:5080/236.14@fidonet +7-343-337-79-22 22:00-07:00 UTC+5 (+6) - the only one in Yekaterinburg that is still operating (2010). At this time, 8BBS is temporarily not working (due to the death of the hard drive). After repairing the hard drive, the station will be restored and 10 telnet lines will appear (previously there were 4). At this time, the 8BBS file archive can be accessed via FTP. DC-hub also operates.

Ukraine, Kyiv

• 2:463/877 570-57-80 20:30-06:30 bbs.neon.ne.jp - Tornado
• Infohelp BBS 212-06-73 24h - Tornado (closed as of 2011)
• Perkombank 255-86-02 CM - Maximus (closed as of 2011)

see also

Write a review about the article "BBS"

Notes

Links

• -
• - BBS related services
• (zip)
• Bulletin Board Systems in the Open Directory Project link directory (dmoz).

Excerpt describing BBS

No matter how strange the historical descriptions are of how some king or emperor, having quarreled with another emperor or king, gathered an army, fought with the enemy army, won a victory, killed three, five, ten thousand people and, as a result, conquered the state and an entire people of several millions; no matter how incomprehensible it may be why the defeat of one army, one hundredth of all the forces of the people, forced the people to submit, all the facts of history (as far as we know it) confirm the justice of the fact that greater or lesser successes of the army of one people against the army of another people are the reasons or, according to at least significant signs of an increase or decrease in the strength of nations. The army was victorious, and the rights of the victorious people immediately increased to the detriment of the vanquished. The army suffered defeat, and immediately, according to the degree of defeat, the people are deprived of their rights, and when their army is completely defeated, they are completely subjugated.
This has been the case (according to history) from ancient times to the present day. All Napoleon's wars serve as confirmation of this rule. According to the degree of defeat of the Austrian troops, Austria is deprived of its rights, and the rights and strength of France increase. The French victory at Jena and Auerstätt destroys the independent existence of Prussia.
But suddenly in 1812 the French won a victory near Moscow, Moscow was taken, and after that, without new battles, not Russia ceased to exist, but the army of six hundred thousand ceased to exist, then Napoleonic France. It is impossible to stretch the facts to the rules of history, to say that the battlefield in Borodino remained with the Russians, that after Moscow there were battles that destroyed Napoleon’s army.
After the Borodino victory of the French, there was not a single general battle, but not a single significant one, and the French army ceased to exist. What does it mean? If this were an example from the history of China, we could say that this phenomenon is not historical (a loophole for historians when something does not fit their standards); if the matter concerned a short-term conflict, in which small numbers of troops were involved, we could accept this phenomenon as an exception; but this event took place before the eyes of our fathers, for whom the issue of life and death of the fatherland was being decided, and this war was the greatest of all known wars...
The period of the 1812 campaign from the Battle of Borodino to the expulsion of the French proved that a won battle is not only not the reason for conquest, but is not even a permanent sign of conquest; proved that the power that decides the fate of peoples lies not in the conquerors, not even in armies and battles, but in something else.
French historians, describing the position of the French army before leaving Moscow, claim that everything in the Great Army was in order, except for the cavalry, artillery and convoys, and there was no fodder to feed horses and cattle. Nothing could help this disaster, because the surrounding men burned their hay and did not give it to the French.
The won battle did not bring the usual results, because the men Karp and Vlas, who after the French came to Moscow with carts to plunder the city and did not personally show heroic feelings at all, and all the countless number of such men did not carry hay to Moscow for the good money that they They offered it, but they burned it.

Let's imagine two people who went out to duel with swords according to all the rules of fencing art: fencing lasted for quite a long time; suddenly one of the opponents, feeling wounded - realizing that this was not a joke, but concerned his life, threw down his sword and, taking the first club he came across, began to swing it. But let us imagine that the enemy, having so wisely used the best and simplest means to achieve his goal, at the same time inspired by the traditions of chivalry, would want to hide the essence of the matter and would insist that he, according to all the rules of art, won with swords. One can imagine what confusion and ambiguity would arise from such a description of the duel that took place.
The fencers who demanded fighting according to the rules of art were the French; his opponent, who threw down his sword and raised his club, were Russians; people who try to explain everything according to the rules of fencing are historians who wrote about this event.
Since the fire of Smolensk, a war began that did not fit any previous legends of war. The burning of cities and villages, retreat after battles, Borodin’s attack and retreat again, abandonment and fire of Moscow, catching marauders, rehiring transports, guerrilla warfare - all these were deviations from the rules.
Napoleon felt this, and from the very time when he stopped in Moscow in the correct pose of a fencer and instead of the enemy’s sword he saw a club raised above him, he never ceased to complain to Kutuzov and Emperor Alexander that the war was waged contrary to all the rules (as if there were some rules for killing people). Despite the complaints of the French about non-compliance with the rules, despite the fact that the Russians, the people of higher position, seemed for some reason ashamed to fight with a club, but wanted, according to all the rules, to take the position en quarte or en tierce [fourth, third], to make a skillful lunge in prime [the first], etc. - the club of the people's war rose with all its formidable and majestic strength and, without asking anyone's tastes and rules, with stupid simplicity, but with expediency, without considering anything, it rose, fell and nailed the French until those until the entire invasion was destroyed.
And good for the people who, not like the French in 1813, having saluted according to all the rules of art and turning the sword over with the hilt, gracefully and courteously hand it over to the magnanimous winner, but good for the people who, in a moment of trial, without asking how they acted according to the rules others in similar cases, with simplicity and ease, pick up the first club he comes across and nail it with it until in his soul the feeling of insult and revenge is replaced by contempt and pity.

One of the most tangible and beneficial deviations from the so-called rules of war is the action of scattered people against people huddled together. This kind of action always manifests itself in a war that takes on a popular character. These actions consist in the fact that, instead of becoming a crowd against a crowd, people disperse separately, attack one by one and immediately flee when they are attacked in large forces, and then attack again when the opportunity presents itself. This was done by the Guerillas in Spain; this was done by the mountaineers in the Caucasus; the Russians did this in 1812.