It seems that Spain is a civilized country, and there is a transport connection between cities, but still every time I am going to go somewhere, I feel some discomfort, because it often turns out to be problematic to prepare the trip properly. Let's say that popular routes are served by a network headed by the largest road carrier in the country, the ALSA company, and in this case everything turns out to be simple: you go to the website www. alsa. es and there you find out the schedule, prices and other useful information. If you go from one small town to another, then you have to puzzle over how to do it, and how much the event will cost. For example, from Basque Vitoria we made several sorties around the area, and each time we had to use the services of another carrier. That is, well, let's say, I am familiar with the turns of Spanish transport, and therefore I can imagine where you can get the necessary information, but for other people this process can be a problem. Let's take at least the trips we have planned in the region - if we did not have prepared data in advance, it is unlikely that this independent trip to the north of Spain would have been so successful.
In general, I found out that the route we needed to Logroño was served by "La Union", and when the necessary window was found at the Vitoria bus station, I raised the issue of tickets. It turned out that there were not very many people who wanted to make such a voyage, and therefore we decided not to plan anything in advance, but simply to allocate one of the vacation days for a trip to the east.
Such a day came in the middle of the week, and then we hit the road, hoping to bring a close acquaintance with the ancient city founded by the Romans, for which a remarkable conflict between the kings of Navarre and Castile flared up in due time. The Castilians then took over, and since then Logroño has served the Spanish crown faithfully, being the capital of the autonomous community of La Rioja.
By and large, the path that we covered in two hours can really be overcome in half the time, but our bus stubbornly refused to go in a straight line, and kept turning off the highway into some tiny towns and villages. As a matter of fact, I personally did not take offense at "La Union", realizing that the locals needed to somehow move around the area, and yet it was a shame to waste time in vain. On the other hand, we should have consoled ourselves with the fact that we were given a kind of excursion through the Spanish outback with an inspection of little-known churches and other architectural monuments.
Finally, we arrived at the Logroño bus station and were immediately captivated by the amazing properties of this complex. To tell the truth, I have never seen apartments in such a building, but here things were like that, so that drying clothes hung culturally in the windows of the second and next floors, giving the whole ensemble a kind of homeliness.
The terminal itself turned out to be small in size, and there was no need for it anymore, because inside the darkish waiting room there were only cash desks - there was an abundance of them. As I said, most local routes are served by separate bus companies, and therefore all the walls were dotted with directions of who is going where, and, therefore, which cash register should be contacted. However, for the sake of reliability, we preferred to inquire about the directions to Pamplona from the employee of the information desk located next to the entrance and received clear instructions.
This concludes our visit to the Logroño bus station, because all the other services needed by passengers were located outside the building: the entrance to the storage room is from the courtyard, where the parking is, in the same place, slightly to the side, again next to the bus stop, there is a toilet. It is free, in contrast to a left-luggage office: and for the opportunity to leave luggage in one of the automatic lockers, you have to pay 2 euros.
Having stocked up tickets for the further journey, we parted with the bus station for a long time, having gone to inspect the city. As a result of that walk, I can say that Logroño made a pleasant impression on me, although sightseeing of its sights would have been more fruitful if we had a map of the area in our hands. It would seem that getting a street plan is a trifling matter, because judging by the information that I managed to get hold of on the Internet, the branch of the local tourist office is located very close to the bus station. If he had been found, things would have gone differently, but since we could not find an office, we had to go to the center a little at random.
Just in case, I will say that there is definitely a tourist office on the Angel Bayo square; it is practically due north of the Logroño bus station, and not far from the main city attraction, the grandiose church of St. Mary, with dimensions befitting a cathedral, and yet not honored with this title - a concatedral is called a similar rank. So, the cathedral and the tourist office of Logroño are connected by the long and almost straight street Portales, leading to its western end to the square with a fountain, that's where the right place will be. The tourist office employs friendly staff who speak excellent English, and therefore there will be no problems with communication. The result of this communication will be not only the Logroño map, which will be given to the guest of the city for free, but also a bunch of booklets telling about local attractions, restaurants, hotels, shops - all with addresses, phone numbers and websites. In a word, such a visit will not take much time, and the benefits from it will be immeasurable ...
Let's return, however, to Portales Street, as it is a tourist attraction in itself. This beautiful city artery, lined with pretty buildings, was at one time the main thoroughfare of Logroño, and looking at its elegant buildings it is easy to imagine lines of carriages rolling back and forth along it. Now transport from Calle Portales has been removed, and it has been turned into a pedestrian zone, so pedestrians wander along it, every now and then visiting boutiques, restaurants, cafes and other establishments that create a halo of a favorite place for rest on the street. Here and there along the road there are benches, cafes put their tables on the sidewalk, all this is accompanied by the rustle of the foliage of the trees, and the landscape looks absolutely magnificent ...
I will add that many houses on Calle Portales have warmed up souvenir shops, but the prices there are not at all divine, because the flow of tourists to the shops is still guaranteed, and therefore the sellers believe that it is possible to tear at exorbitant prices from the guests of the city ...
Walking along Portales Street, it is difficult to pass by the cathedral, or rather, as I said, the lack of a cathedral: usually the episcopal or archbishop's see is listed in one of the parish churches, but the largest church in Logroño shares this honor with two more sanctuaries in other cities, so the cathedral she still isn't. I think the locals would passionately like to transfer the "church capital" to themselves, because having invested so much money in construction, they definitely expected a return. Although the return to them was already, albeit not as impressive as it could have been: the construction of such an impressive structure is inextricably linked with the role that the city played on the medieval path of pilgrims moving along the northern coast of Spain to Santiago de Compostela. Many Europeans wished to worship the relics of St. James, and therefore the flow of people did not diminish, well, the inhabitants of Logroño from time immemorial plucked off pieces of income from the pilgrims. First, they erected a relatively small church of St. Mary with the proceeds, and later, at the beginning of the sixteenth century, they aimed at a more ambitious project. True, they swung too wide, and a good three centuries passed before the construction work was completed. But now Logroño boasts the largest temple in the area, which looks very attractive.
It is likely that the city dwellers use the construction of colossal buildings to camouflage some of their complexes, otherwise why would such a relatively small town try so hard for the height of the buildings? Meanwhile, the neighborhood of the Logroño Cathedral is the tall bell tower of the Church of St. Bartholomew; when I arrived at the place where this landmark was listed on the map, I first decided that there was a mistake, because in front of me there was more a watchtower than a temple. Nevertheless, the tower turned out to be a bell tower, and the ensemble of the church acquired the fortress features because of its ancient origin: in the 13th century, the threat of an external attack on the city was very urgent, and therefore the inhabitants considered it their duty to use every opportunity to equip strong points. In fact, the Church of St. Bartholomew was part of Logroño's defensive perimeter, and this explains its so severe appearance.
Further from Plaza San Bartolome, we moved west, to where the Church of St. Mary stands - although the townspeople have the Cathedral of St. Mary, as they say, you can't spoil Masha's castle, and two temples are definitely better than one. So they erected a new church in the XIII century, and then periodically improved and rebuilt it, before rebuilding to the point that even experts cannot determine the style in which the building is sustained. Personally, I liked most of all in its appearance the octagonal spire with which it is crowned, but the exterior of the church did not make much impression, just because of the confusion in the design.
Santa Maria stands on Calle del Marques de San Nicolas, a rather interesting street, which along the way intersects with the busy Calle Sagasta; we will then have to walk along the last one, while we will cross it, and we will go one more block forward, after which we will turn right. Then the oldest of the churches of Logroño, the Church of St. Jacob, will appear before us. It is difficult to call its architecture especially outstanding, so it is its historicity that attracts attention to this landmark of Logroño. About eight hundred years have passed since the construction of the building, and this fact alone makes us treat it with respect. More, to be honest, there is nothing to respect it for, because it looks a little like an orphan: somewhere in the 16th century, the Catholic community started to expand the church, and even partially succeeded, only then the money ran out, and a pretty good facade, decorated skillful sculptures, while the side walls look absolutely wretched ... Also, the church definitely lacks the spire, which once crowned its bell tower, only the old structure had to be dismantled, since it began to openly fall apart, and the townspeople did not bother to build a new one ...
Now, having seen enough of the façade of San Jacob, we turn right from Plaza Santiago, reach an intersection and turn right again. Then Calle Sagasta will stretch out in front of us, with the help of which we will reach the places we already know and do some shopping - the Rioja region, like many other regions of Spain, is famous for its wines, and all over Logroño there are wine cellars here and there, but there are especially many them to the south of the cathedral, where we are heading. Now that the main sights of the city have been examined, you can relax, although before going in search of food outlets, we visited the San Blas market, tempted by its description as a worthwhile place - after all, we walked along Calle Sagasta. I do not know who advised the city authorities to consider the building as historical and important, but, at least in my opinion, it is nothing special. Perhaps, due to the lack of really bright sights, this move was just a pr-action, or it is about a tribute to the memory of the church of San Blas that once stood here. They demolished it in the 1830s, citing the dilapidation of the temple, and several buildings were erected on the vacated territory at once. Then, after the First World War, the city needed a market, and then it, in turn, was erected on the unlucky "bones" of some of the newcomers. In principle, the building can be regarded as an example of the architectural trends of the then Spain, but if by and large, then the San Blas market can be completely ignored.
But what cannot be ignored in any way is the mentioned taverns. For lovers of booze, Logroño offers simply outstanding opportunities, because from one cellar to another you don't even have to move, but crawl - the establishments are located so close to one another. I remember the most in this regard Calle El Peso, where almost every house has sheltered either a liquor store, or "bodegas", as this kind of point is called here. Each of them has a huge selection of wines, so you even get lost from the abundance. Personally, I suggest choosing places that are beautifully decorated, like, say, "Vinos El Peso", where there are two huge barrels in front of the entrance. In addition, there wine is sold at more than moderate prices, and there is an opportunity to buy a bottle for less than 2 euros. But this is the very minimum, and, of course, on the store shelves there are copies that are much more expensive, including those equipped with gift wrapping. It seems to me that a set of two beautiful glasses and two bottles will look very good, as it seems to me, as a souvenir from Spain - they only ask for 18 euros for it, but the set looks just like a king!
If Logrono's guest is interested not only in drinking, but also, so to speak, a snack, then it's time to find Calle San Juan and go for a walk along it: both sides of the street are replete with restaurants and cafes serving dishes from different parts of the kingdom. There is fish, meat, and the ubiquitous paella, and there are many varieties. Here you can have an excellent lunch for only 12-15 euros, and stay not only well-fed, but also satisfied.
Now, after lunch, I would recommend enjoying a fine day in the nearby square, which lies almost next to it: Plaza Espolon seems to be meant for lazy get-togethers. So, we leave from San Juan street in the direction of the vegetation looming in front, turn right and go forward one block. Then a vast space will open before us, culturally equipped and very stylish. There are many benches in the shade of the trees, everywhere the eye stumbles upon flowers, and there is a fountain in the center of the square. By the way, Plaza Espolon only looks quiet and even intimate, but in fact it has been serving as a venue for various festivals, fairs and carnivals for a long time - it's not in vain that a stage has been set up on its eastern side.
It is symbolic that the center of the square is occupied by a monument to the most, perhaps, an outstanding native of these places, General Espartero. This military leader became one of the most important figures in Spanish politics in the 19th century and, even more important, earned the recognition of descendants as a courageous and honest warrior.
We spent quite a lot of time in the square, both because we did not want to leave, and for a more prosaic reason: it was possible to leave, but the time before leaving for Pamplona had to be somehow spent, because the bus to the capital of Navarra rarely runs from Logroño, so that we did not have the opportunity to choose some other flight, if we were going to get to Vitoria in the evening, where our base was. True, this waiting time, spent in sweet idleness, as it turned out, should have been spent with more benefit - with more benefit in the opinion of my half. The fact is that on the way back to the bus station, we stumbled upon a whole scattering of shops, and if it had not been for the departure date that was pressing for us, we would have certainly hit shopping. That is, I, of course, would not have hit, but it is usually not possible to keep a woman who saw a possible prey from shopping. After at Avenida de Juan XXIII my joy saw that in one of the shops you can buy skirts for 5 euros, and blouses for only ten, she almost went mad, and only the prospect of being left without Pamplona kept her from a large-scale trip to the nearby shops. In short, men who want to please their women with new things should keep in mind the area of this boulevard. One of the main avenues of the city will help you to find your way. Avenida de Politico Jorge Vigon cutting it in half into old and new parts. In addition, in the neighborhood, at the intersection of this highway and Calle General Vara de Rey, there is a major transport hub, where all the bus lines of the local public transport system converge in one way or another. It is there that it is convenient to make transfers, which is what the locals do, therefore, be guided by the stops and the crowd surrounding them - you won't be mistaken. I will say that using Logroño buses is convenient and not at all expensive, because tickets cost only 60 euro cents; each of them allows you to travel thirty minutes and, if necessary, make one change, which is quite enough to drive the entire town from end to end.
We now had to travel a much greater distance, and since it was on the Iberian Peninsula, this event did not at all promise lightness and simplicity. If at a bus station, for example, in Finland, the first thing a person arrives at is to find a ticket office and buy a ticket, then in Spain everything is different. There, first of all, a potential passenger must first find an information bureau and inquire in it, which specific company serves the route he needs; A normal bus station on the Iberian Peninsula has a dozen ticket offices, each of which belongs to a different carrier, and only a knowledgeable person can handle this mess - as a rule, these are the people who work at local information points.
I suppose I knew in advance that on the section between Logroño and Pamplona we would have to use the services of the Estellesa office, and therefore buying a ticket for the desired flight went as if it had been written. But it was according to the written purchase of the ticket, while the trip itself was neither shaky nor shaky. The reason for this was an old, creaking and badly dilapidated bus, which the company put on this route. The ventilation there worked through a stump-deck, some of the chairs were simply broken, and if we had the opportunity to get to Pamplona in some other way, I would, she-she, choose this particular method.
On the other hand, it is possible that it was only in this case that such a trick came out, because “Estellesa” is a fairly well-known company, and connects many with the town of Navarra, reaching even to San Sebastian, where you can get directly from the same Logroño; site www. laestellesa. com to help those who are going to travel a similar path ...
If the bus that brought us to Pamplona made a somewhat depressing impression, then the city bus station, on the contrary, impressed with its size and design. A brand-new, almost brand-new terminal, apparently, was built quite recently, and it is somewhat strange that during the crisis, which is so much talked about in Spain, the country's authorities are undertaking such large-scale and very few projects. There is no dispute, it is pleasant to be inside a clean, shining complex, and yet the thought of those colossal expenses and no less colossal efforts that were required to dig a gigantic foundation pit and equip it properly creeps in. The echoing, mostly empty spaces are sometimes even frightening, especially in a deserted environment.
Taking a closer look, you discover that everything is not so smooth “in the Danish kingdom”: for example, there are a lot of seating places, but they are located mainly in a draft, and therefore it will be hard to while away the time there in autumn or winter, it seems to me. The Pamplona station is deprived of such a necessary option as a left-luggage office: when a person arrives, it means that a person has to inspect the city and is forced to carry his things with him - a mess, definitely a mess ...
The local station, by the way, is also not a present: getting to Pamplona from Vitoria will not be difficult, but this arrival will not bring much joy. Although the station is clean, the same luggage storage room is not there, the cat cried out for waiting places, and it is also very far from the city center - you have to walk, and besides, uphill. In this regard, the Pamplona bus station is much more convenient, since Miranda Kalea, for which it is listed, is close to the main attractions; in fact, the city fortress is just in his neighbors.
I think at the same time it is necessary to inform the readers about local transport - it seems to me that this is not a superfluous matter, especially in light of the mentioned location of the railway station. Therefore, in Pamplona, public transport is not very developed, and yet nearly two dozen regular lines, coupled with a dozen routes operating at night, create a very dense network. As a result, residents and guests of the city can easily get to different parts of Pamplona and its suburbs without much hassle; the only exception is the very center, but it is entirely given over to pedestrians, and there is simply no way for transport.
In my opinion, it makes sense for guests of the capital of Navarre to take a closer look at the “nine” starting from the railway station: the fare is only 1.10 euros, the ticket allows you to travel on local buses for three quarters of an hour, making one change - this is quite enough to get where you need to.
It seems to me that you first need to get to the tourist office of Pamplona, where you can get hold of a map of the area, take brochures about the city and get up-to-date information about the opening hours of attractions. The shop is located in the fourth house on Avenida Roncesvalles, which is not too far from the bus station. In turn, it is not so far from the tourist office to the central square, where we need to go with only one stop. The reason is more than valid: at the corner of Avenida de Roncesvalles and Avenids de Carlos III, there is a monument to the Ensierro running with the bulls. As you know, Pamplona is famous throughout the world for this most popular festival, and thousands of people every year in early July arrive on the land of Navarre to test their nerves next to mortal danger. The holiday of San Fermina has been held for a long time, and although every year it is not complete without the wounded, or even the dead, who want to run through the ancient streets in the company of angry animals are rife. In honor of these brave people who reach the point of recklessness, the authorities of Pamplona established an expressive composition that displays a picture characteristic of running with bulls - huge creatures rushing at full speed, and those who could not stay on their feet are already lying under their hooves, while more dexterous participants the ensierro continue to move forward.
Please note that the author of the monument also observed the relative reliability of what is happening: people and animals run towards the bullring, the end point of the famous route: in the end, the goal of the ensierro is to deliver the bulls to this arena for subsequent battle.
The bullfighting arena itself often appears in world news, although in fact it does not represent anything special in terms of architecture. It was built in the 1920s, when excessive decor was not welcomed, so the building turned out to be more functional than beautiful; only the central entrance is magnificently decorated.
And I called the reliability of the monument "relative" because the real route runs somewhat to the side in the direction to the north-east. There Calle Estafeta lies, along which a significant section of the escape route passes, and the entire road is marked on the pavement with a special red line. This kind of guiding thread, about a kilometer long, stretches from the Plaza de Toros to the former royal palace, now given over to the National Archives. From there, the bulls run out on their last trip, or rather, not entirely from there, but from a nearby room.
On the site of the archive, there really was a residence of the kings of Navarre, built in ancient times by the order of King Sancho the Wise. Personally, it seems to me that the people of Pamplona should have shown more respect for the antiquity, but they thought it differently, and the palace ensemble was greatly rebuilt, after which it was given over to store documentation. Now it is difficult to judge what it was originally, in the XII century, one can only complain about the unpretentiousness of the architects of restructuring, who gave the building the appearance of a kind of hydroelectric power station - it does not smell like an old palace ...
Much more like the residence of the kings, the palace of Navarre is the building that has been occupied by the local city hall since the middle of the nineteenth century. This, in my opinion, is one of the most beautiful buildings in the city, elegant and in neoclassical style. An elegant addition to this splendor is a small garden adjoining the eastern façade, which makes the photographs from the other side simply stunning and glorious. You just need to carefully approach the choice of the angle, because it is not known why someone thought of building something like a skyscraper behind the palace, which thoroughly spoiled the front view of the Palacio de Navarra. It is clear that the architecture of cities can change over time, and the palace itself, for example, replaced the previously existing Carmelite monastery, but nevertheless, instead of the monastery, something extraordinary came out, while the structure of glass and concrete attached to the rear is difficult to call otherwise ordinary ...
The Palacio de Navarra company at the very beginning of Avenue San Ignacio is a characteristic monument dedicated to nothing less than the city's struggle for independence. It was installed not far from the palace with a certain intention, to serve as a kind of reminder of the ancient rights and freedoms of Navarre. The author of the project, Manuel Martinez de Ubago, obviously tried to display the course of the conflict between the Cortes and the royal power as vividly as possible, and therefore the monument turned out to be heavy, but it can be used to study local heraldry: the composition includes the coats of arms of twenty Navarre cities and all local communities.
Examining the monument, it is hard not to notice that behind it opens up a spacious square called Plaza del Castillo. This is the true heart of ancient Pamplona, which has served the townspeople for all sorts of holidays, fairs and festivals since ancient times, plus until 1844 it was used for bullfighting, and only after the construction of the corresponding arena did the bullfights move there. Now Plaza del Castillo serves as a place of contemplation and relaxation, and wherever you look, there are pretty houses everywhere, so it's best to spend some time in the square, sitting on one of the benches and observing local life ...
You can, of course, not linger on this piece of the city, continuing to inspect the territory, only so many streets leave the square in different directions that, willy-nilly, you still return to your starting position - it seems you didn't want to go back, but the geography of Pamplona is all the same brought it out wherever she wanted ...
Let's go, then, on her lead, and first go east to see the Church of St. Nicholas, a very peculiar structure. Its difference from other city temples is immediately striking: thick walls and narrow loophole windows, together with an unusual configuration of the building, suggest a castle rather than a sanctuary. In part, these considerations are correct, because in the XII century, when the church of St. Nicholas was being built, not only was there no time to take care of beauty, the protective function of the building was much more important. The interior, probably, then the situation was also harsh, and only later, already in modern times, it was updated, so that many details of the interior, decorated in the Baroque style, now contrast with the older elements made in the Gothic manner.
Now it would be wise to move a little to the northwest to visit the Church of San Lorenzo; it is definitely a good idea to head east to reach the cathedral and the town hall, only then we will not be able to go to more remote areas, so it is better to leave the "sweetest" sights of Pamplona for later.
So, the church of San Lorenzo, which adorns Calle Mayor, is especially respected by the townspeople, since it houses the San Fermin chapel, dedicated, as is commonly believed in these parts, to the heavenly patron of the city. It is clear that in this situation, the inhabitants of Pamplona did not spare money for decorating the temple, and it remains only to sigh sadly that the luxurious building built in the XIV century had to be subsequently rebuilt, which is why it somewhat lost its magnificent appearance. The alteration that took place in 1901 was mainly the facade, and as a result, the church turned out to be some kind of impersonal, perhaps - the architect who led the alterations definitely did not succeed in picking up the baton of inspiration from his medieval predecessors. Okay, at least the interior decoration for the most part remained old, authentic ...
A little more to the north, and we will see the complex of buildings of the Augustinian monastery, valuable because it was once patronized by such an important person as the personal secretary of the king, and therefore the architect Juan Gomez de Mora probably tried his best. The fruit of his efforts has become a very nice ensemble, which, perhaps, will seem to some too strict, although on the whole it makes a very favorable impression. Inside the monastery, if you look in the guide to Pamplona and believe the information from there, there are the most valuable works of religious art collected by the monks over the past four hundred years - they have been collecting money since the 17th century, when the monastery was founded, and must have succeeded in their endeavors. Be that as it may, since the Augustinians still occupy the complex, it is impossible to go inside and see the treasures they have accumulated, all that remains is to inspect the monastery from the outside and guess what is inside ...
Now we need to head east, but still I suggest going a little north to see the New Gate. Once this structure bore a different name, called Sant'Engracia, but after it was thoroughly rebuilt in 1571 by order of Philip II, along with the new image the gate received a new name. The design that we can see now is just an imitation of antiquity, albeit skillful, but still an imitation ...
Now, with a pure heart, we can turn east and walk along the ridge of the fortress walls, which have long covered the center of Pamplona with a reliable ring. This powerful defense was required for the city in the 16th century, when, due to the conflict between Spain and France, the lands of ancient Navarre were under the threat of invasion from the Pyrenees. The city, which immediately became an important outpost on the path of possible French expansion, quickly received additional funding, and acquired new structures in addition to the old ones. Thanks to those tense events, we can now appreciate the scope and capabilities of the ancient militaristic architecture.
From the height of the bastions, a good view of the surroundings opens up, so the walk will not only be useful, but also enjoyable. As a result, we will come to the most famous building in the city, the town hall. Its popularity, as you can easily imagine, is associated with the ensierro: it is from the balcony of the building that the signal is given to start a race with the bulls every year. After the long-awaited rocket takes off over the houses, the whole of Pamplona is plunged into the riot and fury of the holiday, weaving together the old and the modern. So the pretentious facade of the town hall weaves together the old and the present, because they began to build the building in the 18th century, then the project was changed, and closer to our days the town hall acquired new features. The result is a seemingly wild mixture of baroque and classicism, and yet this wild mixture for some reason seems to everyone to be a rather harmonious combination. In general, the town hall of Pamplona can be called eclectic, but no one dares to call it ordinary or boring.
Almost nose to nose with the town hall is the Church of San Saturnino, which looks like a fortress like the sanctuary of St. Nicholas we have already seen. This is because the threat of enemy invasion from neighbors constantly hung over the inhabitants of this area of medieval Pamplona, so they decided in the 13th century to kill, so to speak, two birds with one stone - they built a new temple and provided themselves with fortifications in case of an armed conflict. This explains the thickness of the walls and the battlements along their top, which are clearly distinguishable even today.
Having studied the history of the church, I thought that the Pamplonians were in vain to try so hard: after all, the temple is dedicated to the patron saint of the city, Saint Saturnin, and you really have to be completely sick in your head in order to desecrate such a place because of the conflict between the quarters. On the other hand, acquaintance with the medieval chronicles shows that sometimes even more terrible things happened than the plundering of the church, even if it was so important ...
If San Saturnino looks like a fortified castle, then the main shrine of Pamplona, the colossal Cathedral of St. Mary, does not look like a castle at all. It looks more like Italian temples, but it lacks the grandeur in which they differ. If, as it seems to me, the townspeople had at hand a space like St. Peter's Square in Rome, the Cathedral of Pamplona would look much more advantageous, otherwise it simply does not have enough space. But what to say, even if you can't even "shove" the building into the lens as a whole - no matter how you turn, you won't be able to move the facades of the surrounding houses, and you won't be able to move away from an inappropriate distance either. More or less tolerably, the temple can be removed from the Curia street, which rests against its facade, but then the side parts will remain behind the scenes. In a word, it is difficult to estimate the dimensions of the cathedral, and this is the first serious drawback of the building. The second drawback, I think, is the too meager design of the building: it is clear that the building of the XIV-XV centuries could not be distinguished by its magnificent decor, and yet additional architectural elements would be very useful here. In the meantime, the façade of the neoclassical style, acquired by the cathedral relatively recently, looks the most striking; its decoration somewhat brightens up the overall impression of the temple.
A close company to the cathedral is its museum, located to the right of the main facade, and if you walk in the same direction for about two hundred meters, then you come out to such a sight of Pamplona as the archbishop's palace. When I read in the guidebook that the building is designed in the Baroque style, I immediately got the idea to see it, and now my plan came true. True, the realization of this did not give me much pleasure, since the Baroque style, at least in my understanding, does not even smell here. Yes, there is no dispute, some architectural delights really resemble the palazzo of Italy, however, the Pamplonian residence of the spiritual hierarch is like walking to the moon to the Italian samples. In my opinion, the builders who erected the palace in the 17th century simply cheated the then archbishop, giving him, for some unknown reason, foreign delights - after all, no one bothered them to create real masterpieces of decor, if they really knew the secrets of the Baroque style ...
Much more joy than the inspection of the archbishop's palace, I was given viewing platforms on the city walls. We have already managed to visit the northern side of the fortifications, and now we can enjoy the views to the east. There are distant perspectives of the land of ancient Navarre.
Now, in general, you can turn to things more prosaic, that is, buy souvenirs and have lunch. The most suitable place for shopping in Pamplona is nearby, we have already talked about Calle Estafeta. So, it would be strange if the most famous street in the city, along which bulls and people rush during the holiday, did not sell souvenirs. So we turn to the assortment there, looking along the way, however, to another Pamplona church dedicated to St. Augustine. This monumental structure deserves a visit, if only because there is a unique altar inside, and even medieval origin is also quoted: the temple was built in the 16th century. However, it does not look medieval, but all because of the reconstruction arranged by the local authorities in the nineteenth century, when the church of St. Augustine acquired a pseudo-antique one instead of the old facade. It didn’t turn out so badly, and yet, it seems to me, it would be better to leave the building alone.
Now about souvenirs from Pamplona. The cost of this good is about the same in all shops, and yet it is better to first look into several shops while walking, paying attention to special offers. For example, somewhere you can save money if you take three magnets at once, somewhere around a dozen postcards they give one more. Postcards, by the way, cost about 30 euro cents, mugs depicting the sights of Pamplona will cost about 5-6 euros, magnets cost an average of 3 euros, sometimes there are copies of 4, but these are those who are particularly artistic.
There is also an opportunity to buy unusual souvenirs: the figurines of monks from the “Gomez” store - this is 15 Calle Estafeta, the most memorable for me. The monastic brethren the size of a finger occupied several shelves, and there were ministers of the church of various guises, sometimes very amusing. For each such figurine, the store asks for only 1 euro, so, I suppose, the question of what would be so interesting to bring from Pamplona can be considered resolved ...
In the same place, in this "Gomez" I liked the knight's armor, made in natural form, even now go into battle. Such a full-height construction cost a little expensive, more than a thousand euros, but souvenir blades a la Toledo steel can be bought by many, since the cost of swords is only fifty coins. The only question is, how then can it be transported through customs? ..
It is also worth paying attention to the parallel streets, where there are fewer shops, but there are more drinking establishments: wine cellars called "bodegas" are found in the cities of Navarre with enviable regularity. And you can buy a snack in the Santa Domingo market, where we will eventually arrive after Calle Estafeta is over. This place, by the way, enjoys genuine love among the residents of the city, who here have the opportunity not only to bargain, but also to communicate with sellers, and therefore noise and hubbub from hundreds of voices permanently reigns inside. The local atmosphere is especially strongly felt on the first floor, where they sell vegetables and fruits, but the second tier, with meat and cheeses, is not far behind the lower ones. Cheeses, by the way, are presented very well, and if you manage to sort out the varieties, you can shop nicely by paying about 10 euros for a weighty cheese head.
If we had an apartment in Pamplona, I would also prefer to buy food in the market, and not in faceless supermarkets, but since we came to Navarra only on a one-day visit, we had to look for other ways of food. And I must say that our searches were not crowned with much success: in other cities of Spain we were able to easily find nice restaurants offering inexpensive food by ordering a set lunch, but we did not find anything suitable here. That is, catering establishments from time to time came across on our way, but their prices were not at all pleasing to the eye. Meanwhile, as time went on, I wanted to eat more and more - having had a snack shortly after my arrival with ice cream at the Coloniale cafe on the same Calle Estafeta and having paid 2.20 euros for 2 balls, we needed a hearty lunch. The result of these wanderings was a visit to the Pans & Company diner; this is Avenida de San Ignacio 5. That is, at first we were not going to have dinner there, and just went in to see what the shop was like, but when my half began to whine, they say, she was tired, and wants to sit, and there is a free toilet, very They say, by the way - I had to stay, and then my appetite sharply awakened. Accordingly, we took a set of food, which included a huge sandwich, a huge portion of potatoes and ice-cold Coca-Cola. Personally, I think that 16 euros for two is quite expensive for this kind of food, and the business, intended as an inexpensive lunch, was still not worth the money paid - try to find some other, even more expensive options.
Because of this misunderstanding with food, the end of our walk in Pamplona turned out to be a little crumpled, and yet the positive effect of getting to know the interesting history and architecture of the city could not be canceled out by such nonsense. Be that as it may, from the capital of Navarre we took away mostly vivid, unforgettable memories ...
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No matter how many times you visit Spain, but if you have not yet visited Rioja and personally drank red wine there, consider that you have not seen an authentic country. This is equivalent to trying to call the two days you spent in the Domodedovo waiting room as a trip to Moscow, followed by a transfer by metro to the Yaroslavsky railway station. Wine from the province of Rioja is arterial blood, scarlet, bubbling, full of passion and capable of giving it in abundance to anyone who wants it. Wine in Rioja must be tasted "from the original source", that is, at the distilleries, devoting at least two days in a row to libations. It is advisable to seek the truth in the many fine wines with the help of your friends, who will gladly accompany you on this journey and will help you not to be mistaken in determining the best of the tasted drinks. The province of Rioja, although it is the smallest in the whole, produces a huge amount of red wine of the highest quality, which has won the deep respect of all the cupbearers of the world. If you travel to Rioja, its capital, Logroño, from Barcelona by car, it will take you no more than 5 hours to get there. You can leave early in the morning, with the expectation of having lunch on the spot.
Logroño is a relatively small town nestled on a huge intermountain plateau. Logroño has an interesting history, there were many wars here, the settlement was repeatedly destroyed. Almost nothing of the ancient architectural monuments has survived. But there is an impressive cathedral in the center of the city, where antiquity just breathes in your face because of the giant forged rusty grate, to which the hands of thousands of civilians have clung to in the last hope to escape from various invaders for several centuries in a row.
Walking around the central part of Logroño is a leisurely and enjoyable affair. People live here are quiet, but cheerful. If in Barcelona, the sea capital, no one is in a hurry, then here, in a provincial nest, in general, life creeps with the speed of a snail. Elderly townspeople in Logroño can sit aimlessly on a bench for several hours, dropping no more than three phrases to each other during this time about the weather or the disobedient neighbor's daughter. And then go for a bite to eat your favorite sausage and jamon with a crispy bun in the nearest cafeteria.
Of course, Logroño has a business life, it has its own entrepreneurs, but the state of general careless pastime extends to them as well. The management of commercial firms does not burden itself with punctuality and commitment. And the burden of physical labor in Riohei is carried on their unpretentious shoulders in the vast majority only by low-income foreigners. They come from Morocco, Pakistan, Africa and Eastern Europe. A poorly educated mass of immigrants willingly emigrates to this region, counting on simple primitive labor that does not require any special education. Local authorities are relatively loyal to the flow of ignorant guest workers, hoping to please winemakers and sausage kings. After all, it is with the help of cheap semi-legal labor that Logroño enterprises will be able to survive the economic crisis that has been dragging on for many years.
The city is surrounded by dozens of tiny villages with agricultural and industrial enterprises. Typically, when in such a village there is one large factory for the production of, for example, the famous smoked pork neck sausages. Ninety percent of the local population works on it. The whole raison d'être of workers is to produce these very sausages 6 days a week from morning to evening. And closer to the night, tired workers gather on the miniature squares of their village, imposingly drink beer from the neck, openly smoke cigarettes with hashish, loudly telling vulgar gossip about the cutest couples from among their mutual acquaintances, while laughing greasy and gesticulating abundantly. The level of culture here is close to zero, foreigners are viewed as a curiosity, but without signs of aggression. This is a kind of piquant touch on your journey for real wine to the bowels. Because it is in these villages that distilleries are located, where cool tasty wine awaits travelers in dark mossy cellars.
Traveling to the province of Rioja will take 2 to 3 days, if you use your own car then your expenses will be petrol, hotel and food. Apart from wine libations, eating local smoked meats, walking and fresh air, you are not in danger of special entertainment, so you won't be able to spend money. An interesting and delicious restaurant in Logroño, in our opinion, is www.restaurantelagaleria.com. Of the sights, we recommend visiting the central square, the grocery market and a stroll through the old town. You can stay in one of the classic hotels in the city, which will be booked for you with the company "
