A detailed guide for those who dare.

The life cycle of Apple laptops is significantly longer than that of competitors. It's hard to argue with this, especially when it comes to models released 3-4 years ago and earlier. A maximum of aluminum, well-thought-out ergonomics, the location of all elements - these are the devices that look at us from store shelves.

And somewhere in a parallel dimension, there are plastic heavyweights with controversial designs, creepy accessories, but a more loyal price tag.

Now the situation has leveled off. Brands competing with Apple have also learned to make beautiful things, and there are a number of parameters in which some laptop models even surpass the “reference MacBooks”.

But any technique sooner or later requires prevention. It's my turn to do the same.

Why did I decide

Note. I deliberately left the technical part of the question, terminology and aesthetics of service centers outside of this article. For any of us, results matter.

I have top 13" MacBook Air 2011. Five years ago, it was a “beast machine”, the processor of which (and here i7 1.8 GHz) grinds any load to smithereens. 4 GB RAM- then it was still a logical standard, and today it is enough for all everyday tasks.

The previous owner treated this “workhorse” with due trepidation, and for the last two years I have been exploiting it “to the tail and mane”. During this time, the MacBook was opened once, by me. After removing a layer of dust from the cooler area (we all like to work on our knees and soft pillows), the laptop was safely closed, but it didn’t last long.

Problem 1: Frying pan with an industrial fan

In my usual work mode, OS X has about a dozen different applications running, including: a text editor, Photoshop, the Safari browser interspersed with Opera (each with 10-15 tabs), mail, five instant messengers, iTunes, a couple of Finder windows. All this works relatively stably for the first half hour. And then the real hell begins.

The cooler spins up to the maximum (which is a good 6500 rpm), the keyboard warms up to a temperature that causes discomfort in operation. Applications begin to play with the matrix and react with an annoying delay ... It started to infuriate - it's impossible to work like that!

For the sake of practical interest, I install the application iStat Menus[Download] and with surprise I observe the following picture.

In the screenshot above, the temperature reaches 96 degrees. Let me remind you that at this moment I am not doing video editing or processing heavy files. At the moment of such a load, the temperature value crossed the mark in 105 degrees.

What is the risk? Too high a temperature can cause failure of any of the elements on the laptop board. The logical degradation of components begins: capacitors, resistors, crystals, and sooner or later you will simply face the premature death of the MacBook.

Repairing or replacing a motherboard is not cheap, so I strongly recommend periodically checking the temperature using the above utility.

Problem 2: I will tell you how to kill the battery

Working behind a large monitor is much more pleasant. Many windows fit, you can effectively arrange the workspace, the realistic colors of a decent matrix delight (the era of CRT is already in the distant past) and your eyes are not so tired. Normal people buy Mac Mini or Mac Pro for this purpose. Our man - connects a laptop via Display / Thunderbolt Port, complements this with a proprietary Apple Keyboard and Magic Trackpad, and feels like a "winner in life."

To whom I refer, I think you already understood. 24 hours a day, the MacBook sits on my desktop, never turns off (thanks to its minimal power consumption), and is connected to the network adapter all this time.

After the purchase, my MacBook Air already boasted three hours of battery life. Six months of operation in the "system unit" mode and the battery life was reduced to 40 minutes, and the number charge cycles exceeded 650. You can see it in the menu About This Mac -> System Report -> Number of Recharge Cycles.

On the official website of Apple, the guarantee for preservation is indicated. 80% capacity after 1000 charge cycles, but, apparently, the company's engineers mean a more adequate operation option.

Detailed instructions for those who dare.

Do not repeat my mistakes and treat your Mac battery with care. How to do this I will tell below.

What is the risk? You feel constantly tied to the outlet, and the question: “Do you have a laptop” is simply difficult to answer.

Verdict. It's decided - it's time for general prevention. The first item on the list is cpu thermal paste replacement with all the resulting dust eliminations. Second - battery replacement.

Service center? No, I'm on my own

The computer services industry is well developed today. One call and a representative of the service center will come for your Mac, pick it up himself, then within a day they will do a “full maintenance” and deliver it back. There are a lot of scenario options here and you can always find a company or specialist who will make your MacBook “like new”. The question is, how good is it?

Yes, many do just that - they took it to the center and let them figure it out. I, as a person who is interested in technology, technology, and especially everything related to Apple, became interested in do it all on your own.

My readers will now be divided into two groups: those who say: “Yes, what is the heroism here - an hour of work and everything is ready” and those who twist at the temple with the words: “Well, come on, you’ll still do it crookedly. We need a specialist in this matter." I think there is a third category that will support my desire to climb where it is not supposed to.

Buying a battery and thermal paste

So I need new battery for MacBook Air 13'' 2011 and thermal paste. In addition to rumors and beliefs that fakes are everywhere, and the original does not exist (and there is some truth in this), I have nothing to present to the market in the battery issue. With thermal paste, everything is solved easier and according to the principle “so help me forums”.

The first and most important thing is to find out which battery model installed specifically in your MacBook. Information can be easily found on the Internet, indicating the exact model name and year of manufacture (do not forget about the screen size), but it is best to see the required serial number with your own eyes.

In order to open the MacBook, we need a non-standard (for other household appliances) screwdriver format Torx T5 or "asterisk".

Ideally, you need to have two screwdrivers at once: T5 to open the laptop lid and T4 to remove the internal screws that hold the battery, cooler, and heatsink in place. So the fixing screws will not experience wear from an unsuitable screwdriver format.

Using a T5 screwdriver, carefully remove the 10 screws:

The 2 top center screws are longer than the 8 others - keep this in mind when reassembling.

Now we define the battery model.

The 2011 MacBook Air 13'' has a battery number A1405. And then it's a matter of technology - look for the most suitable store on the Internet and order the model you need. Finding "100% original" is more like a myth, so take the Chinese markings and characters on the battery calmly. In the end, and your MacBook proudly bears the inscription on the back of the case: Made in China.

Regarding the thermal paste. There are many good options on the market:

• Glacial Stars Ice Therm I
• Arctic Cooling MX–2
• DEEPCOOL Z3
• Arctic Silver Ceramique 2
• CoolerMaster IC Essential E1
• KPT-8 in the end - it is quite good

If you wish, you can do a detailed analysis of the effectiveness of each of the above pastes. Personally, I didn’t have time for a thorough study - the work stopped, and the open Mac was waiting for the operation.

My choice fell on CoolerMaster IC Essential E1 for several reasons at once. Firstly, it is a little cheaper than the hyped Zalman, and secondly, according to numerous reviews, it does an excellent job of cooling.

Finally, you buy a complete set for laying the paste yourself: the tube itself with the “saving substance”, an alcohol wipe and a spatula for leveling the paste layer on the processor. The issue price is about 600 rubles, but the volume of the tube is enough for a dozen or two processors.

We change the battery

Everything you need for prevention is on hand. Torx T4/T5 screwdriver, new battery, thermal paste, hands and full focus.

The only thing that is not in the photo is a wooden stick or toothpick to turn off the trains. In no case do not use a metal screwdriver for this.

Immediately before starting work disconnect the cable leading to the battery.

We unscrew the screws around the perimeter of the battery. Do not be too lazy to take an A4 sheet and schematically sketch the location of each screw. They have different lengths and threads, and when reassembling there is a risk of screwing something in the wrong place, thereby piercing the body of the device.

I did like this:

For disassembly, you need to unscrew exactly five screws, using a Torx T4 screwdriver.

When removing the battery, be extremely careful and try to hold it from all sides at once. The battery may break under its own weight.

The original and the newly acquired "100% original" are no different from each other.

The only thing that catches your eye is the absence of a plastic tail for extraction on the purchased battery.

It's not critical, we'll survive.

We install a new battery in place and fix it with screws, according to our scheme. Each screw has its place. Try not to apply force, a moderate turn of the screwdriver is enough.

After installing the battery loop is not connected, because ahead is the most time-consuming part of the prevention - the replacement of thermal paste.

Change thermal paste

Using a toothpick, carefully pry off the ribbon cable located above the cooler. It is glued to the body of the cooler, so it will take a little effort to tear it off.

Again, use a toothpick to turn off the miniature cooler cable by gently lifting the tab and pulling it out.

Now, using the same Torx T4 screwdriver, unscrew the three screws holding the cooler and carefully remove it.

We proceed to the removal of the radiator. There are already four screws waiting for us. Try to remember the effort that you had to make to break them - when reassembling, you will need to tighten the screws in the same way.

After you unscrew the 4 screws, do not remove the radiator. It is fixed in one more and very problematic part.

Near the cooler, in the very corner, there is dangerous zone- a miniature wiring, under which there is a screw fixing the cooler.

Carefully move the wire aside and remove the screw. The main thing is not to damage anything. Remove the radiator by loosening from side to side and releasing the rubber seal.

While unscrewing the screws, make another schematic drawing with their location. It is important! The screws are different.

Using a can of compressed air or a syringe, get rid of the dust that has formed on the radiator grill. Of course, the same should be done with the cooler.

Access to the processor chip is guaranteed!

Yes, what was left of the factory thermal paste could not save the MacBook from overheating. It has dried out and does not provide proper thermal dissipation.

Using a cotton pad and alcohol, carefully wipe the processor (to a mirror finish) and the heatsink.

We have come to the most crucial moment - applying thermal paste. Faced with the self-replacement of the paste, many users are faced with the problem: what is the optimal amount of thermal paste to apply?

In order to understand why thermal paste is needed at all, look at this picture:

The purpose of replacing thermal paste is to provide smoothing and filling of microcracks on the surface of the processor and heatsink. She is not needed to be a layer between them. Therefore, with the approach: “I’ll put more - I’ll cool better” you will only make it worse. The thermal paste will dry out very quickly and cease to perform its function, losing the necessary physical properties.

You need to distribute the paste in a thin layer over the entire surface of the processor. Approximately this amount:

Then, using a spatula, level the thermal paste.

When everything is ready, do not rush to immediately apply the radiator. Try on its location and pay special attention to the rubber seal. It should fit into the motherboard slot.

Only then can you properly install the radiator. Be careful when screwing in the corner screw (where the dangerous wire is). Don't overtighten the screws, do it gradually on each side.

When installing the battery, make sure that the barely visible slot on the plug snaps into place.

We close the back metal cover, tighten ten screws around the perimeter.

Assembly completed!

The effect of replacing thermal paste, battery and some tips

Having done everything that I described above, I independently performed the preventive maintenance of my beloved MacBook Air. But the question that worried me even before starting all this was the effectiveness of the event.

I'm telling.

Thermal paste. Before replacing the thermal paste, the temperature of the laptop rarely dropped below 95-100 degrees. The cooler worked at full capacity even when applications were not running, and the temperature to which the case heated up made it impossible to work.

You type text in the editor - 92-94 degrees, launch Safari - all the same. You open Final Cut - the mark of 105 degrees submits. The cooler works, but there is no sense from it. He didn't chill!

Replacing the thermal paste and cleaning the cooler worked magically. He stopped making noise! When you run heavy applications, the MacBook instantly heats up, the cooler slowly spins up and falls within a minute. And the temperatures now look like this:

• Working in Final Cut Pro X (video editing) - 94-97 degrees
• Surfing, music, instant messengers, Photoshop - 70-80 degrees
• Working in a text editor - 40-45 degrees.

The temperature in the room is a hot summer day, about 23-25 ​​degrees.

I have NEVER seen the last figure on my MacBook Air. Working in complete silence is a real pleasure. Nothing distracts you, does not pester and does not annoy. Was the game worth the candle? Definitely!

Battery. 40 minutes is the maximum I could afford without an outlet. After switching on, the new battery was 52% charged. We all have heard about the calibration, which is associated with constant disputes and speculation.

Battery calibration IS NEEDED. Of course, if you are interested in her adequate further work. What I did after the first inclusion:

• Immediately connected the power adapter and charged the battery to 100%
• Discharged to 10% and re-charged to 100%
• Repeated the cycle 3 times

That's all, that's enough. Don't be surprised if the program iStat Menu will constantly show different battery capacity and health values. This is normal until the battery is pumped, which may take about 20-25 discharge / charge cycles.

When using the battery, try to work in the 20-100% mode. Don't let your battery drain completely, and stop working after your Mac prompts you to critical charge. Try to take your MacBook off immediately after it is 100% charged. So you can not worry about battery life and battery degradation for several years.

Of course, this is just a recommendation. Modern batteries (and even more so from Apple) are equipped with the necessary protection controllers and provide maximum service life without unnecessary “dancing with a tambourine”. Apple technology is designed for comfort, and it's up to you to follow the operating tips or not.

Autonomy is one of the most important parameters of any mobile electronics. The times when 2 hours of battery life of a laptop was considered a good indicator are long gone, and today 8-10 hours of work without recharging have become the standard. Batteries have always been consumables. Over time, any battery loses the capacity of the elements, the MacBook starts to discharge and charge faster. From this it can be concluded that macbook battery replacement this is a common and inevitable occurrence. The MacBook battery has a special controller board that counts charge cycles and monitors its operation. On average, the battery lasts for 750-1000 charge cycles, which is approximately equal to 3 years of using a laptop. In some cases, batteries may last longer or vice versa, less.

MacBook battery service required, types of faults.

According to the types of manifestations of a battery malfunction (sometimes we will abbreviate and write the battery), 3 groups can be distinguished:

• The battery drains quickly and charges quickly;
• Mac doesn't detect battery and only works when plugged in;
• The battery is swollen.

In the first case, battery failure is caused by normal wear and tear. In this case, Mac OS may issue a warning that the battery needs service. You can use such a device, but it’s better not to delay a visit to the service to replace the macbook battery, the battery can easily swell.

In the second case, the MacBook battery controller failed. The battery is not detected, the Macbook does not charge and you have to work with the power cable constantly connected. This can happen both from the natural wear and tear of the battery, and due to factory defects, if the poppy is new. Separately, the controller, alas, does not change and in this case only replacing the entire macbook battery will help.

In the third case, it swells and deforms due to improper chemical processes in the battery capacities. There are many reasons for this behavior of the battery, the most common is the use of a non-original charger. On MacBook models with a non-removable battery, if the battery swells, the touchpad and bottom cover may be damaged and may also need to be replaced or repaired. As you understand, the only logical action in this case is also to replace the battery.

Features of MacBook Air, Pro, Retina batteries

Previously, until 2009, the MacBook Pro battery was removable and took up about ¼ of the internal space. Replacing the battery then was actually just buying a new one and installing it in the case. Today's 12-inch Macs, MacBook Airs, and MacBook Pro Retinas now have more than half the battery space. To remove the battery, you now need to remove the back cover, screwed with special bolts. Recently, the trend is that the motherboard and other internal elements are decreasing, and the battery is increasing. And thanks to its increase and the increase in the energy efficiency of motherboards, battery life is significantly increased.

On Retina and Macbook New (12-inch models), the batteries are securely glued to the case. This makes the replacement and repair of the battery in an authorized service much more expensive. For example, to replace the battery on a macbook pro Retina 13” or 15”, you will need to change the entire topcase, which comes complete with a keyboard and touchpad. But why do you need to replace the Macbook keyboard and touchpad if they are working, you ask. Unfortunately, this is Apple's service policy. On the MacBook New 12” the battery comes complete with a back cover and speakers.
Fortunately, we can change the battery separately from these parts, while not losing a bit of quality. The cost at the same time, as you already understood, is much lower than for a prefabricated part.

Inside the MacBook Pro Retina 13"

Macbook Pro and Air battery replacement process

Despite the external similarity of MacBooks, almost every new model year, batteries have undergone changes in connector, capacity or controller.

On the MacBook Pro a1278, a1286, and a1297, the back cover is first unscrewed. Then the battery is disconnected from the motherboard, the fastening screws are unscrewed and the part is removed, and a new one is installed in its place. Everything about everything takes less than 15 minutes.

The process for replacing the battery of an 11" or 13" Macbook air (a1370, a1465, a1369 and a1466 models) is exactly the same. On the new Macbook 12” a1534 and Retina models a1425, a1502 and a1398, you will need to peel the battery off the top case or back cover. The process is not fast and it is better not to rush here, the factory tape is very strong. After the battery is removed, the master removes the old tape and sticks a new battery on the new tape. In time, the entire macbook repair takes about 1 hour.
We install only new original batteries on all Mac models. The battery replacement warranty is usually from 3 to 6 months, the warranty period depends on the specific MacBook model.

If you find that the battery of your Macbook Pro is no longer charging from the native adapter, do not rush to poke a soldering iron into it. As silly as it sounds, the first thing to do is:

1. make sure that the contact in the socket is reliable (do not use a broken one);

2. make sure that there is power in the outlet (plug another, known to be working device into it);

3. check that foreign objects are not packed into the laptop's power socket (usually food crumbs, compressed dust clods and other insects get there);

4. carefully inspect the yellow contacts of the connector. They should not be burnt, blackened, oxidized. When you try to drown them inward, the pins should come back without jamming. It is advisable not to scratch the gilded coating once again;

5. make sure that the cord from the adapter to the connector does not have mechanical damage, creases, bare wires do not stick out from under the insulation, have not been driven over by an office chair, etc. A damaged wire can be easily replaced with your own hands for any other of the appropriate section. In macbooks, only two wires go from the power supply to the Magsafe 2 connector:

If you are a very lucky person, simply unplugging the adapter from the network for a few minutes can save you. It happens that, due to a power surge, the charger goes into protection and it needs time to think the lock has been reset.

Sometimes, when you connect the adapter to your Macbook, the charging indicator does not light up, but in fact it is charging. The fact is that the desired indicator (orange or green) is set on fire on command from the SMC system management controller located in the MacBook. Sometimes, due to accumulated errors, the SMC starts to fail and then resetting the controller helps.

To do this, you need to connect the adapter to a completely turned off (not sleeping, namely turned off) macbook, press the key combination Shift + Control + Option and, without releasing them, press Power. Then, simultaneously releasing all the buttons, turn on the laptop with the reset controller.

If all else fails, you will have to make a friend with the exact same MacBook and discreetly swap chargers with him and try to connect to his charger. It is not necessary that a friend has exactly the same adapter - a more powerful one will also work. The main thing here is that the connectors match. [Comment : according to one of the comments on this article, a less powerful power supply is also suitable for testing]

If your MacBook battery does not charge with your charger, and when you connect someone else's charger, everything starts working as it should, then your charger is broken. Your cap. The bravest ones can tell the wife that the purchase of a mink coat is again canceled, since the MacBook is more important. The rest will have to repair the adapter on their own.

I had a defective 60W MagSafe 2 PSU, so most of the following will be true for this adapter. The 13-inch MacBook Pro with Retina screen was equipped with this charger:

• MD212, MD213 (Late 2012)
• MD212, ME662 (Early 2013)
• ME864, ME865, ME866 (late 2013)
• MGX72, MGX82, MGX92 (Mid 2014)
• MF839, MF840, MF841, MF843 (early 2015);

Macbook Pro Charging Repair

Before delving into the innards, it is useful to know how the charging process is initiated. You may be surprised, but Apple engineers have managed to integrate microprocessor control even into such a simple device as a charger. Here are the key points:

1. operating voltage is 16.5 volts. However, as long as the adapter is not connected to a load, its output has an idle voltage (about 3V) with a current limit of ~0.1 mA;
2. after connecting the connector to the macbook, the adapter output is loaded with a calibrated resistive load, due to which the open-circuit voltage sags to ~ 1.7V. The 16-bit microcontroller in the charger detects this fact and after 1 second instructs the output switches to output full voltage. Such difficulties make it possible to avoid sparking and burning of the connector contacts when the charger is connected to the laptop;
3. when connecting too large a load, as well as in the presence of a short circuit, the open-circuit voltage will drop significantly below 1.7V and the command to turn on will not follow;
4. in the power connector of the Macbook Pro there is a DS2413 microchip, which immediately after connecting to the MacBook starts exchanging information with the SMC controller via the 1-Wire protocol. The exchange takes place on a single-wire bus (the middle contact of the connector). The charger tells the laptop information about itself, including its power and serial number. The laptop, if everything suits it, connects its internal circuits to the adapter and tells it the current mode of operation, on the basis of which one of the two LEDs lights up in the connector. The entire exchange of pleasantries takes less than 100 milliseconds;

Considering the foregoing, it is unlikely that it will be possible to charge a MacBook without native charging. Checking the power supply without a MacBook will not work either.

Theoretically, for testing, you can connect a 39.41 kΩ resistor to the two extreme contacts of the Magsafe connector (which is not so easy to do, given the design of the connector). After a second, a voltage of 16.5 volts should appear on the resistor. In this case, the indicator on the connector will not light.

For those who don't know, the Apple Magsafe 2 power supply connector has the following pinout:

This smart design of the charging socket allows you to connect your Macbook without thinking about polarity.

Despite the fact that the original adapter has all kinds of foolproofing built in, it should still not be treated lightly. The power of this power supply is enough to set you on fire at the first opportunity, splash you with molten metal and scare you to hell ... hiccups.

How to painlessly disassemble the adapter

To disassemble the Macbook charger, you will have to use brute force, since the halves of the case are glued to each other. The most painless option is to use pliers as shown in this video:

I managed to disassemble the power supply from my Macbook Pro in 2-3 minutes (with most of the time spent looking for a convenient stop for the pliers). After that, light traces of the autopsy still remain:

After the case is opened, you need to carefully inspect the printed circuit board for burnt tracks, charred resistors, swollen or leaking electrolytes, and other anomalies.

The board will most likely be filled with some kind of compound, it must be carefully removed. And it would be nice not to tear off anything superfluous.

It does not hurt to immediately ring the fuse at 3.15A. Here it is in brown:

If the fuse is defective, then this, as a rule, indicates a breakdown of either the diode bridge, or the powerful MOSFET, or both. These elements burn most often, since they bear the main load. They are very easy to find - they are located on a common radiator.

If the field effect transistor is knocked out, it makes sense to check the low-resistance resistor in the source circuit and the entire snubber circuit (R5, R6, C3, C4, D2, two chokes FB1, FB2 and capacitor C7):

When repairing a Macbook power supply, it is strongly recommended to plug it into a 220V network through a 60-watt light bulb. This will prevent devastating consequences in the event of a short circuit in the circuit.

Be extremely careful! A high-voltage capacitor can hold a life-threatening voltage for a long time. I got caught once and it was extremely frustrating.

If, after replacing the defective elements, the power supply did not start, then, alas, further repair of the Apple Magsafe 2 charger is impossible without an electrical circuit diagram.

By the way, the most reliable way to find out whether the circuit has worked or not is to measure the voltage on the output electrolytes. On the working adapter there should be 16.5V:

Magsafe 2 Adapter Schematic (60 Watts)

It was not possible to find a schematic diagram of the Macbook power supply, so there was nothing left to do but copy it from the printed circuit board. Here is the most interesting part:

As can be seen from the diagram, the charger is assembled according to the classical scheme of a single-cycle switching power supply. The heart of the converter is the DAP013F chip - a modern quasi-resonant controller that allows you to achieve high efficiency, low interference, and also implement protection against overload, overvoltage and overheating.

At the initial moment of time, after connecting the adapter to the outlet, there is no voltage on the turns of the winding 1-2, respectively, the voltage at the gate of the transistor Q33 is zero, and it is closed. At its drain, the voltage is equal to the operating voltage of the zener diode ZD34, which comes there from a full-wave rectifier formed by diodes D32, D34 and part of the power diode bridge BD1, through a chain of resistors R33, R42.

Transistor Q32 is open and capacitor C39 starts charging from the same diode rectifier (along the circuit: R44 - ZD36 - Q32). The voltage from this capacitor is supplied to the 14th leg of the IC34 microcircuit, which, through its internal switch, is connected to pin 10 and, accordingly, to the 22 uF electrolytic capacitor C (we could not find its designation on the board). The initial charging current of this capacitor is limited to 300 μA, then, when the voltage reaches 0.7V on it, the current increases to 3-6 mA.

When the microcircuit start voltage is reached on the capacitor C (about 9V), the internal generator starts, the pulses from the 9th output of the microcircuit go to the Q1 gate, and the whole circuit comes to life.

From this point on, the voltage of the IC34 microcircuit is powered by the capacitor C, the voltage on which is formed from the winding 1-2 of the transformer through the rectifier diode D31. In this case, the internal switch of the microcircuit breaks the connection between the 14th and 10th pins.

Protection against excessive increase in output power is implemented using elements ZD31 - R41 - R55. When the voltage at the output of the winding 1-2 rises above the breakdown voltage of the zener diode, a negative potential appears on the 1st output of the microcircuit, which leads to a proportional decrease in the amplitude of the pulses on the 9th output.

Overheating protection is implemented using an NTC31 thermistor connected to the 2nd output of the microcircuit.

The 4th output of the microcircuit is used to determine the moment of switching the output key at the points of minimum current.

The 6th output of the microcircuit is designed to stabilize the output voltage of the adapter. The feedback circuit includes an optocoupler IC131, which provides galvanic isolation of the high-voltage and low-voltage parts of the adapter. If the voltage on the 6th leg drops below 0.8V, the converter switches to reduced power mode (25% of the nominal). Capacitor C36 is required for correct operation in this mode. To return to normal operation, the voltage on the 6th leg must rise above 1.4V.

The 7th leg of the microcircuit is connected to the current sensor R9 and if a certain threshold is exceeded, the operation of the converter is blocked. Capacitor C34 sets the time interval for the auto-recovery system after an overcurrent.

Pin 12 of the microcircuit is designed to protect the circuit from overvoltage. As soon as the voltage on this leg exceeds 3V, the microcircuit goes into blocking and will remain in this state until the voltage on capacitor C drops below the controller reset level (5V). To do this, you need to unplug the adapter from the network and wait a while.

It seems that this adapter does not use the overvoltage protection functionality built into the microcircuit (in any case, I was not able to trace what the R53 resistor is connected to). Apparently, this role is assigned to the transistor Q34, included in the feedback circuit in parallel with optocoupler IC131. The transistor is controlled by the voltage from winding 1-2 through a resistive divider R51-R50-R43 and in the event of, for example, an optocoupler malfunction, it will not allow the microcircuit to increase the converter voltage uncontrollably.

Thus, this 60-watt power adapter implements triple protection against exceeding the output voltage of acceptable limits: an optocoupler in the feedback circuit, a Q34 transistor in the same circuit, and a ZD31 zener diode connected to the 1st leg of the microcircuit. Add here more protection against overheating and overcurrent (against short circuit). It turns out a very reliable and safe charger for a MacBook.

In Chinese chargers, most of the protection systems are thrown away, and also, in the interests of economy, there are no circuits for filtering RF interference and eliminating static electricity. And although these crafts are quite efficient, you have to pay for their cheapness with a higher level of interference and an increased risk of failure of the laptop power board.

Now, having the circuit in front of your eyes and imagining how it should work, it will be easy to find and fix any malfunction.

In my case, the inoperability of the adapter was caused by an internal break in the resistor R33, due to which the Q32 transistor was always locked, the voltage was not supplied to the 14th leg of the controller, respectively, the voltage on the capacitor FROM could not reach the chip enable level.

After soldering the R33 resistor, the microcircuit start circuit was restored and the circuit started working. I hope that this article will help you fix the charger from your MacBook Pro.

For help in identifying completely burned out elements, I am attaching an archive with photos of the board in high resolution (37 photos, 122 MB).

And people dissected exactly the same charger, only with a power of 85 watts. Also interesting.

As you know, Apple pays a lot of attention to the organization of maintenance and repair of their devices ... while they are under warranty. If the warranty period for your MacBook has expired, then its repair can result in a serious amount. You may be asked for several hundred dollars for some trifling problem.

Therefore, let's deal with those problems that we can fix on our own. Here I have collected all the important information on repairing a MacBook with my own hands. It will also come in handy for Mac desktop users.

Before you start: backup

If your MacBook has started to work with problems and you are going to deal with them, then before proceeding to take action, create a backup copy of all important information.

I hope you already know how to use Time Machine. Use this utility to create a copy of your Mac on an external drive or online storage. Great, let's start troubleshooting the MacBook and fixing them.

1. Download updates and check for viruses

In the first step, make sure that the latest versions of the software are installed on your computer. Download the latest updates for your operating system, applications, component firmware... absolutely everything. Launch the App Store and go to the Updates section. If an update is ready for some software product, install it.

If you installed some programs not through the App Store, then launch each of them separately and check if they are ready to be updated.

After updating the programs, run an antivirus scan (after updating your antivirus) to make sure that there are no viruses or other malware that can cause problems with your computer. You can also use a program to find and remove adware, such as Adware Mdic. Just don't use MacKeeper for this.

Many users still live in the dark and believe that viruses do not threaten Macs. But the situation has changed a long time ago, and unwanted programs that display ads can easily get into your system.

After updating and checking for viruses, restart your computer. It is possible that it will work without problems.

2. MacBook Diagnostics

If the problem persists with the Mac, then you need to find out its source. First, you should decide on the category of the problem: software or hardware. To check the hardware, you need to run Apple Diagnostics (or Apple Hardware Test, depending on the age of your computer). To do this, we use the following algorithm:

1. Turn off your MacBook and disconnect all peripherals from it (except for the network adapter, mouse, keyboard, and Ethernet connector).
2. Hold down the D key until the Apple Diagnostics starts loading.
3. Select a language and press the "Enter" button.
4. If your Mac was released earlier than 2013, then select “Perform extended testing” and click “Test”.

The procedure for diagnosing the hardware stuffing of the computer will begin. It may take a while - be patient. At the end of the diagnostics, a table will appear on the screen with information about the problems found with the hardware. Write it all down somewhere and restart your computer.

Using the built-in Disk Utility in OS X, you can detect a number of problems related to the file system, especially if they are related to permissions.

If these diagnostic tools did not find anything, then you will have to use an alternative method. Check out “Troubleshooting in Mac OS X” - in this document, Apple has collected practical tips to help you find the source of problems with your computer. Having found it, you may yourself understand the further strategy for repairing the MacBook or you will have to look for relevant information on thematic forums.

If you still don't know how to return full functionality to your Mac, read on.

3. Problem programs

Let's start with the easier one. As a rule, problems with software are solved cheaper and faster.

Fixing access rights

Incorrect access rights often create hard-to-explain problems. Correcting them in many cases allows you to quickly solve seemingly incredibly complex problems. Launch Disk Utility (Applications –> Others) and click the “Check Permissions” button.

The utility will almost certainly find several objects, the access rights to which it will advise you to fix. After it completes its work, click the "Fix permissions" button. If the list of fixes is large enough, this procedure will take several minutes. You can relax and have a cup of coffee for now.

Reset PRAM and SMC

Random Access Memory (PRAM) and System Management Controller (SMC) are responsible for many important things in your Mac. To reset PRAM, do the following:

1. Turn off your computer.
2. Press the computer's power button.
3. Until the gray screen appears, press the Command, Option, P, and R buttons simultaneously.
4. Hold down these buttons until you hear the computer boot up sound again.
5. Now release the buttons.

Resetting the SMC depends on the type of computer you are using. On a MacBook with a removable battery:

1. Turn off your computer.
2. Disconnect the power adapter.
3. Remove the battery.
4. Press and hold the power button for five seconds.
5. Insert the battery back.
6. Turn on your computer.

On a MacBook with a non-removable battery:

1. Turn off your computer.
2. Plug in the AC adapter.
3. On the built-in keyboard, simultaneously press the Shift, Control, and Option buttons on the left and the power button.
4. Release Shift, Control and Option at the same time.
5. Turn on your computer.

On Mac Pro, iMac with Intel processor, Mac Mini with Intel processor, or Xserve on Intel:

1. Turn off your computer.
2. Disconnect the power cord.
3. Wait fifteen seconds.
4. Plug in the power cord.
5. Turn on your computer.

Removing problematic programs

If you still haven't made your MacBook work properly and you suspect a particular program is causing problems, then try uninstalling it and see if the computer works better after that. If this is exactly what happened, try installing this program again. Sometimes that's all it takes to repair a MacBook. If problems persist, then try a few more things.

Reinstall OS X

We are moving to drastic measures. Sometimes a serious problem occurs in the operating system, which can only be fixed by reinstalling. That's why you backed up your Mac at the beginning of the article.

If you have OS X Yosemite installed (after all, you have already updated your Mac), then proceed as follows:

1. Restart your MacBook.
2. When you see a gray screen press and hold Command + R.
3. Options should appear, among which select “Install OS X” (Install OS X).
4. Follow the instructions on the screen.
5. The operating system will be reinstalled. See if the problem is gone.

4. Hardware issues

If your MacBook has a hardware problem and you want to fix it yourself, you will have to use online resources filled with useful information. The Apple Diagnostics or Apple Hardware Test information should be your starting point (assuming the utility is running and your computer's display is working, of course). Sometimes diagnosing hardware problems can be very difficult and will require professional skills and tools.

We collect information

Before proceeding with the repair of MacBook hardware, you should be well prepared and collect the necessary information. There are quite a few resources on the Internet about repairing Macs. I recommend starting with iFixIt, Instructables and YouTube. Before disassembling your MacBook case, read or review the instructions carefully to make sure you have everything you need.

MacBook repair tools

Unfortunately, to repair Apple laptops, you will need tools that are not included in a traditional home kit. In the iFixIt online store and in local hardware markets, you can find almost everything you need: ingenious screwdrivers, soldering tools and special kits.

You can also search for the right repair tools on Amazon and eBay. In the latter case, the prices may pleasantly surprise you (only the delivery will most likely cost a pretty penny). Used tools are unlikely to lose their functionality after repairing one or two computers.

Where to get spare parts

On eBay you can find not only tools, but also spare parts for MacBooks, from motherboards to displays. You can also buy a broken Mac at a low price, in which we will find many working parts for repair. iFixIt also sells Mac parts.

Before buying a hundred times check that this is exactly the part that you need. Protect yourself from incompatibility issues. If you are not sure what the exact name of this part is, on your MacBook, go to the Apple Menu (in the upper left corner of the screen) -\u003e About This Mac -\u003e System Report and find the description of the desired part there (of course, if the computer turns on) .

For business!

If you know what needs to be done, prepared the tools and the necessary spare parts, then it's time to start repairing your MacBook. Read the necessary instructions. Protect yourself from possible electric shock and proceed.

Stock up on patience. Repairing a modern computer is a very delicate task, there are many small and fragile parts, and some of them can be irreparably damaged by a discharge of static electricity. Be extremely careful when working with the battery and microcircuits.

Or maybe a service center?

Repairing a MacBook takes time, patience, and sometimes decent money - but it turns out to return the computer to working capacity and an increase in self-esteem.

I recommend undertaking serious repairs only if you like to delve into the stuffing of electronic devices. Having solved serious hardware problems with Macs several times, you will move to the favorites group.

But for most of us, major Mac repairs should be left to a trained professional. You can try to take the relevant courses yourself. But they are unlikely to seem simple to you. Therefore, most users entrust the repair of their MacBook to professionals. Yes, you will give more money, but you will receive qualified help.

In what situation are you ready to repair your computer yourself? And when would you prefer to entrust its repair to a qualified person? Share your opinion in the comments.

Average resource macbook is 5 years. However, batteries tend to fail much sooner. The only way to return the ability to work autonomously to a laptop with a failed battery is to replace it.

The complexity of the procedure depends on the specific model. The configuration and location of the batteries vary from one to another. For example, replacing the battery of a 13-inch Macbook Pro 2011 is unlikely to take more than 15 minutes. The same Macbook Pro 13 The 2015 has a much more complex battery design and layout.

First of all, you need to purchase a replacement battery. You should carefully place an order so that the selected battery fits exactly the specific laptop model. You should also prepare the necessary tools and materials.

The set of required screwdrivers also depends on the laptop model. In some cases, only cross and triangular are needed, in others - Pentalobe and Torx. In order not to worry about such nuances, you can always turn to specialists to replace the battery. It's faster and safer, although you have to pay.

Battery replacement process

The basic steps for replacing the battery are the same for all models, but there are many nuances. In earlier versions macbook it all comes down to the following operations:

1. Unscrew the bottom case cover.
2. Disconnect the battery cable from the system board.
3. Unscrew and remove the battery.
4. Install, fix and connect a new battery.

After that, you can calibrate the battery and start working in normal mode.

But it's not always that simple. Some Models macbook equipped with a modular battery. To dismantle it after removing the housing cover, you must:

1. Peel off the warning stickers on both sides and disconnect the battery connectors;
2. Remove the shield from the header panel connector and disconnect it from the system board.
3. Unplug and remove speakers on both sides.
4. Disconnect the trackpad cable.

And this is only the final disassembly of computer components. After it, put on goggles and use a plastic-neutral solvent to soften the adhesive under the batteries. After that, you can very carefully pry off the battery modules using a plastic card.

At this stage, extreme care should be taken - the battery case should in no case be damaged.

After dismantling the old battery, it is necessary to clean the seat from the old glue. Then degrease the seat and apply double-sided tape or special glue. Do not use a glue gun - the temperature of the glue can damage the battery.

After placing the new battery in place, you should install and connect all the removed elements in the reverse order. The battery connectors are the last thing, so that inadvertently a short circuit does not happen somewhere on the board. After installation, the new battery should be calibrated.

Fresh Battery Calibration

In order for the battery to work with the most effective charge for as long as possible, it should be calibrated. To do this, you must completely discharge the battery, up to a complete shutdown. Then charge up to a 100% charge level without turning off the power supply, and then completely drain the battery again.

This procedure fixes in the battery controller the allowable values ​​of the minimum and maximum charges as close as possible to the actual ones. If in subsequent operation you try to connect and disconnect the power supply at the right time, you can significantly extend the battery life.