Here, periodically, I need to make printed boards for my crafts. LUT for me is an extremely capricious method - then the toner will overpare and spread, then the quality of the paper is not good, then some hemorrhoids are nerves need steel-iron. For photoresist, the reagents are specific and laminator.
"And if for this machine to build a special?

To immediately print paint? ", I thought. "Printer redistribution!", - Reasonly noticed laziness. The search on the Internet has revealed that people are successfully converted to print on textolite junctions, but this is a rather time-consuming process (you need to finish and raise a frame with a print head, etc.), moreover, with your inkjet printer, I will rinse like Madame Gritsatsueva for a pitchfork (MFP, nevertheless). But the unnecessary Laser HP LJ 6L was lying around without a case - in general, it was nothing. We climbed to watch the characteristics and accidentally stumbled upon a (cache of an article, for every fireman) on the alteration of this particular printer under the textolite. But the topic in the article did not reveal to the end - in particular, it does not tell there how to make the toner sticking to the textolite foil, which then this toner bake and, most importantly, there is no video demonstration of the working sample, so I brought this thing to Mind alone. I ultimately I recommend to get acquainted with the aforementioned article, because I will not repeat the items described there in all details - there is nothing to produce a copyampist. Under the cat a lot of photos.

So, the alteration itself lies in the trifles - to make a cut in the back wall, remove the jackhammer and the stove (so that the drawing is not lubricated). The thermal sensor of the stove should be replaced with a resistor with a resistance of 8.2 com. I recommend to do it like this (just knock the thermal sensor to the resistor, so as not to mess with it):

With a connector that feeds the stress of heating is not necessary to do anything. Disable the stove and everything from it.

Next, you need to work with a jacking area - this is what was behind the paper capture roller - it needs to be cut, leaving only the sides. I forgive forgiveness, but there is no photo with the unsolved back - I forgot to take a picture, and when he came to mind and came to my senses, then everything was already unspepted. I myself do not know how it happened. Nightmare.

So everything should look like:

Yes, I almost forgot: more carefully with a paper passage sensor (it, or rather, the top shoulder of its valve is in that slit to the left of the paper capture roller) - do not spire it by randomly attachment, otherwise the printer will not be able to control the end of the sheet in the supply path.

But at the paper presence sensor, on the contrary, delete the damper, and the printer will seem to appear that "paper" is always.

Back view:

That's all I wanted to clarify about the alteration. And now no less important moments - toner sticking to foil and fix it with heating.

I did not very carefully bored the toner and accidentally shook the tracks - the defects can be seen in the photo. Inscriptions, as we see, pricked pretty good.

Here, periodically, I need to make printed boards for my crafts. LUT for me is an extremely capricious method - then the toner will overpare and spread, then the quality of the paper is not good, then some hemorrhoids are nerves need steel-iron. For photoresist, the reagents are specific and laminator.

"And if for this machine to build a special? To immediately print paint? ", I thought. "Printer redistribution!", - Reasonly noticed laziness. The search on the Internet has revealed that people are successfully converted to print on textolite junctions, but this is a rather time-consuming process (you need to finish and raise a frame with a print head, etc.), moreover, with your inkjet printer, I will rinse like Madame Gritsatsueva for a pitchfork (MFP, nevertheless). But the unnecessary Laser HP LJ 6L was lying around without a case - in general, it was nothing. We climbed to watch the characteristics and accidentally stumbled upon a (cache of an article, for every fireman) on the alteration of this particular printer under the textolite. But the topic in the article did not reveal to the end - in particular, it does not tell there how to make the toner sticking to the textolite foil, which then this toner bake and, most importantly, there is no video demonstration of the working sample, so I brought this thing to Mind alone. I strongly recommend familiarizing yourself with the aforementioned article, because I will not repeat there in all details I will not - there is nothing to produce a copy-paste. Under the cat a lot of photos.

So, the alteration itself lies in the trifles - to make a cut in the back wall, remove the jackhammer and the stove (so that the drawing is not lubricated). The thermal sensor of the stove should be replaced with a resistor with a resistance of 8.2 com. I recommend to do it like this (just knock the thermal sensor to the resistor, so as not to mess with it):

With a connector that feeds the stress of heating is not necessary to do anything. Disable the stove and everything from it.

Next, you need to work with a jacking area - this is what was behind the paper capture roller - it needs to be cut, leaving only the sides. I forgive forgiveness, but there is no photo with the unsolved back - I forgot to take a picture, and when he came to mind and came to my senses, then everything was already unspepted. I myself do not know how it happened. Nightmare.

So everything should look like:

Yes, I almost forgot: more carefully with a paper passage sensor (it, or rather, the top shoulder of its valve is in that slit to the left of the paper capture roller) - do not spire it by randomly attachment, otherwise the printer will not be able to control the end of the sheet in the supply path.

Here, periodically, I need to make printed boards for my crafts. LUT for me is an extremely capricious method - then the toner will overpare and spread, then the quality of the paper is not good, then some hemorrhoids are nerves need steel-iron. For photoresist, the reagents are specific and laminator.

"And if for this machine to build a special? To immediately print paint? ", I thought. "Printer redistribution!", - Reasonly noticed laziness. The search on the Internet has revealed that people are successfully converted to print on textolite junctions, but this is a rather time-consuming process (you need to finish and raise a frame with a print head, etc.), moreover, with your inkjet printer, I will rinse like Madame Gritsatsueva for a pitchfork (MFP, nevertheless). But the unnecessary Laser HP LJ 6L was lying around without a case - in general, it was nothing. We climbed to watch the characteristics and accidentally stumbled upon a (cache of an article, for every fireman) on the alteration of this particular printer under the textolite. But the topic in the article did not reveal to the end - in particular, it does not tell there how to make the toner sticking to the textolite foil, which then this toner bake and, most importantly, there is no video demonstration of the working sample, so I brought this thing to Mind alone. I ultimately I recommend to get acquainted with the aforementioned article, because I will not repeat the items described there in all details - there is nothing to produce a copyampist. Under the cat a lot of photos.

So, the alteration itself lies in the trifles - to make a cut in the back wall, remove the jackhammer and the stove (so that the drawing is not lubricated). The thermal sensor of the stove should be replaced with a resistor with a resistance of 8.2 com. I recommend to do it like this (just knock the thermal sensor to the resistor, so as not to mess with it):

With a connector that feeds the stress of heating is not necessary to do anything. Disable the stove and everything from it.

Next, you need to work with a jacking area - this is what was behind the paper capture roller - it needs to be cut, leaving only the sides. I forgive forgiveness, but there is no photo with the unsolved back - I forgot to take a picture, and when he came to mind and came to my senses, then everything was already unspepted. I myself do not know how it happened. Nightmare.

So everything should look like:

Yes, I almost forgot: more carefully with a paper passage sensor (it, or rather, the top shoulder of its valve is in that slit to the left of the paper capture roller) - do not spire it by randomly attachment, otherwise the printer will not be able to control the end of the sheet in the supply path.

But at the paper presence sensor, on the contrary, delete the damper, and the printer will seem to appear that "paper" is always.

Back view:

That's all I wanted to clarify about the alteration. And now no less important moments - toner sticking to foil and fix it with heating.


Well, of course, that, for what we all gathered here - the video demonstration of the work of the device:

That's all. I make this "Machine" significantly eased life. Not one fee with its help successfully printed, pah-pah. If someone is useful to someone - I will be very happy. Thanks for attention.

A. Vovk, Angarsk Irkutsk region.

The proposed method of forming a mask that protects future conductors on the printed circuit board workpiece during its etching can be widely used in radio amateurs and specialists engaged in the design and manufacture of prototypes of appliances and equipment, the repair of the failed nodes. It is cheap, convenient, easily reproducible, does not require the use of harmful, aggressive or scarce reagents, expensive equipment and snap.

In the overwhelming majority of cases, printed circuit boards are made by etching the unprotected mask of foil sections on the workpiece. For the formation of a protective mask, photoresist, paints and varnishes, special ink, printer toner and other substances and mixtures, resistant to a etching solution are used.

The determining factor in the preparation of the preparation of the board for etching is the choice of a method for applying a protective mask. Recently, laser-iron-iron and photoresistive methods have become popular, but to obtain an acceptable quality mask, they require rather long-term development of the process.

The proposed method of applying a protective mask is characterized in that the printer prints it directly to a specially prepared surface of the foil of the workpiece. It does not need auxiliary and intermediate media of the mask image and operations associated with them. For printing used an inkjet printer with conventional water-soluble ink based on a dye or pigment.

Since the copper foil is poorly wetted in ink, it is necessary to apply a thin layer of food gelatin solution to its surface, which prevents spreading ink on foil, knocking them into a drop and ensures uniform distribution over the surface without breaks, which can later lead to marriage.

The idea of \u200b\u200bprinting on the board workpiece in the tray for CDs on a printer, which has such a function, has arisen a long time ago. Since more often have to deal with small boards, they can be accommodated in the tray from two to six, even if you need to leave the disconnected central hole for fixing the disc, it was only necessary to select a suitable inexpensive printer and make sure that its program allows you to transfer the drawing of the printed circuit board without distortion .

The choice fell on three inkjet printers having the same cost and technical capabilities - Canon Pixma IP 4500, Epson Stylus Photo R270 and HP Photosmart D5463. Print programs to the disk in the last two of them turned out to be too primitive - an uncomfortable interface and a minimum of functions.

The most serious was the CD-Label Print program from the kit

Canon PIXMA IP 4500 is a normal control panel, the ability to scaling. A ruler is provided, which is very important when working with fees. From the Autodesk Actrix 2000 program, the drawing (through the function in the "Special Insert" menu) could be transferred without a conversion, but from the Sprint Layout 5.0 program could not be done.

Also confused only the central hole for fixing the disc in the tray, it took away too much space and did not allow processing the larger printed circuit boards.

It was decided to try to print not in the CD-Label Print program, but to use the primary print driver, and everything turned out perfectly. Now the maximum size of the board without reworking the retractable tray increased to 85x85 mm, with the alteration - 120x120 mm. Why is the Autodesk Actrix 2000 program selected? First, it is very universal, allows to draw concept schemes, drawings, printed circuit boards. Secondly, has a greater information base of electrical and electronic components. But most importantly, they are easy to create, items look natural, freely tolerated on the working field. Automatic binding to the grid, ends of lines, holes of holes, comfortable scaling during drawing and when printing, select the thickness of lines, colors, font, background, etc.

First, the Autodesk Actrix 2000 program design a drawing of the future printed circuit board (Consider a unilateral option). Save it in your working directory in case of inappropriate change or deletion.

Next, in the menu (File-Page Setup ...), the size of the page (131x242.5 mm) is set, they completely repeat the size of the retractable tray to print on CDs - create a mask pattern (Fig. 1). The circle is drawn in the place where it is actually placed (check the ruler). Save the template in the form of an object under the name so that it can be opened.

If the board is small, the workpiece (its thickness is not more than 1 mm) is glued with a segment of two-sided sticky tape for free space. She should not perform above the surface of the bottom of the tray. Then print the circuit board (right on plastics). This place establishes the following workpiece. Its sizes are better to choose with a small allowance, and then bring to the desired file or sandpaper.

If the board is large, you will have to cut the protrusion for fastening the disk in the center of the tray.

With 120x120 mm board sizes, you will have to finalize the tray - remove (cut) plastic to a depth of 1.5 mm in

four corners shown in Fig. 1 blue. The easiest way to do is on the milling machine, but perhaps manually, because plastic is pretty soft. You can use a simple cutter, the same as for cutting organic glass, but with a wider - 3 ... 4 mm - cutting edge, or an electric drill with a set of coarse-grained abrasive nozzles. Inside brilliant square in the recess is designed to recognize the availability of a disc, so when printing the board it should be closed, otherwise the printer tray will extend.

Bilateral boards are manufactured in two passages. First, print one layer and baked (see below for this), then the other is also baked. For more accurate combination of the parties, clamps should be provided.

In the table and in fig. 2 presented the basic operations for the formation of a protective mask in a jet-diffusion method for one-sided printed circuit boards It is easy to see that the jet-diffusion method of forming a protective mask does not require preliminary presses and warming up; It allows the use of foil materials with a clearly pronounced structure of the dielectric (a large fiberglass grid, a significant thickness of the fibers, etc.) and small defects, micro-phase on the foil; Does not make raster, diffraction, geometric distortion (as opposed to the use of photoshoblon). In the manufacture of bilateral printed circuit boards, the positioning of the layers is easy to provide on the installed reference points directly in the computer program in which the conductors are wiring, without mechanical combination and use of microscopes and special equipment. The temporary costs of preparing the board for etching are minimal.

Ink masks, in contrast to printing on paper, held on the surface of the workpiece due to the special coating. The image remains raw quite a long time (a few hours), so it is impossible to touch the surface with your hands, it is necessary to take the workpiece only for side faces. A small-scale styrenecrylic polymer (toner) is used as a fixer (toner). It has the ability to diffuse intensively in ink while it is enveloping its particles. In other words, the ink perform the role of a dispers-gator, and the polymer is the dispersed phase. Ink does not spread due to surface tension and high viscosity in plated contact places.

It turns under the ink layer, the polymer also diffuses into it.

Toner with tangent movements (squirrel brush) in all directions are applied to the crude, just printed mask. Before that, it is desirable, without touching it, slightly twisted the toner and gently shake the surplus.

As a result, a pasty colloidal solution (suspension) is formed on the workpiece (suspension), which is necessary for the destruction, fully repeating printed drawing. There are no significant effect on the globular sections of ink, since the polymer immediately records the edge of all future conductors and protects them from spreading, giving the image a clearly defined view.

The surplus of the polymer is carefully removed, for example, a squirrel brush or a rotating roller (you can additionally use the vacuum suction). Small sites can be scared with wooden toothpick under a magnifying glass. Poor removable remnants can bust and do not wash away with water.

Then the thermofine (or above the flame of the gas burner, observing caution) perform the baking at a temperature of about 180 ... 200 ° C, which are included in the ink, liquid components are evaporated. Due to the low concentration of the polymer on the space places, it does not occur. It is necessary to bake it to the appearance of the characteristic smell of the melted plastics. The coating should be dense and acquire a small shine, otherwise everything will wash on the flushing stage.

Washing with water should remove I exholuble polymer that did not fall into ink. At the same time, the gelatin coating from the gaps. Protective mask represents

I are a baked mass, resistant to a etching solution and having a high adhesion to the surface of the zapod]. To increase the thickness of the mask layer, it is allowed to re-apply ink on the formed and baked pattern (gelatin is no longer applied). This may be useful at a significant workpiece area to increase the stability of the mask, but will require a very accurate re-installing of the workpiece into the tray.

The process of forming a protective mask is implemented on a serial-produced inkjet general-purpose printer Canon PIXMA IP 4500.

Software: Ope-I Wireless System - Windows Vista Home Premium, PCB Wiring - Autodesk ACTRIX 2000, Print Driver - Canon Pixma IP 4500.

Print mode: color intensity - manually, intensity - +50, contrast - +50, brightness - normal, print quality - high, media type - CD Recommended, paper source - Tray for I disk, page sizes - CD-RF tray (131.0x242.5 mm).

The minimum width of the conductors and gaps is 200 microns.

Printing is made to the place where the drawing of the future board is transferred. Color should choose any other than black, since on a black background it is difficult to control the degree of applying a black polymer. Bilateral printed circuit boards must be hard to fix in the printer tray so that they exactly fall when turning into the same place. Combining the images of conductors on the first and second layers is carried out in the Autodesk ACTRIX 2000 program itself on the reference points installed on the coordinate grid. The accuracy of compatibility determines the selected value of the cell size of the coordinate grid.

For the manufacture of high-quality printed circuit board with dimensions of 85x85 mm, no more than 10 ... 15 min (plus the time of preparation of the drawing of future conductors and the etching time).

For the method described above, a styrenecrylic polymer (toner) is suitable with a particle size of 3 ... 4 μm, used in laser printers and photocopying devices of most foreign firms - Xerox, HP, Canon, Samsung, and others. It should be noted that toners of different manufacturers have several different melting points.

A special coating is an aqueous solution of food gelatin, and no longer diluted by swelling gelatin, and it is precisely not communicated to complete swelling, that is, the components included in the gelatin incurred to the solution are used.

It is better to use the food gelatin sold in the form of crystals or granules. One part of gelatin will require five parts of boiled cold water (by volume).

Gelatin swells 5 ... 10 min (depends on its quality). The solution is periodically stirred. It must acquire such a viscosity so that when applying to the workpiece, he did not leave spaces, but at the same time did not stretch over the brush, and after applying it was a little bit spread. Crystals not switched to the crystal solution with the brush are removed on the edge of the dishes and delete.

The solution left for a long time turns into jelly (gelatin completely swells) and becomes unsuitable for use.

The coating should be uniform (not to have bands), and after drying, get a slightly iriable tint. It dries quickly, but you can speed up with a hair dryer. If, when viewed under the magnifying glass, any defects will be detected, the coating is better flushed and apply new. You can wash off and already printed drawing.

When etching should not be overtaken in solution and apply too intensive mixing methods to exclude the peeling of the protective mask.

It should be noted that in the Sprint Layout 5.0 program there is no rigid binding of the created project to the size of the selected page, so the trial printing will be required.

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