Camera models control from a computer. Controlling a Canon camera from a computer

Breeze Systems Limited, founded by Chris Breeze, has been developing software for managing digital cameras and various applications for organizing and processing digital photos for over 17 years. Recently, one of the most popular programs released by this company has been updated - DSLR Remote Pro has been released under the number 2.2.1. This program allows full control of Canon DSLRs from a computer (Mac and Win versions available) connected via USB or FireWire cable. For owners of Nikon cameras, an analogue of NKRemote v2.2 has been developed (only supports Windows), there is also a PSRemote program for Canon PowerShot compacts. Since the author of these lines has a Canon SLR camera, and Windows is installed on the laptop, therefore, this article will consider working in the program for Win. Owners of Nikon cameras will be able to get an overall impression of this program, and the entire Additional information about compatibility with your equipment can always be found on the official Breeze Systems website.

Compatible with camera models

Of course, in order to control the camera from a computer, you need to be the owner of a camera that supports the "live view" mode, that is, Live View. And all latest models DSLRs from Canon are provided with this function: it Canon EOS 7D, 60D, 50D, 5D Mark II, 550D, 500D, 1000D, 450D, 40D as well as professional models. All of these cameras are fully compatible with the DSLR Remote Pro software, and the software will allow you to use all of its features. However, older cameras that do not support Live View, such as my Canon EOS 30D, can also be controlled using the program, only many functions will not be available. For a complete list of compatible cameras, see the official website of the program developer.

The DSLR Remote Pro for Windows will run Win 7 (only 32bit with some models), Vista (only 32bit, and then not with all models), XP or 2000, while the Mac version will require OS X 10.4 (Tiger), OS X 10.5 (Leopard) or OS X 10.6 (Snow Leopard).

Screenshot 1. DSLR Remote Pro Main Window

Key Features of DSLR Remote Pro

  • Controlling Canon Digital SLR Cameras Using a Computer. In the screenshot, 1 panel to the left of the photo allows you to change shutter speed, aperture, ISO, white balance and other parameters
  • Recording Movies on a Camera Memory Card (Canon EOS-1D Mark IV, 5D Mark II, 7D, 60D, 600D, 550D, 500D and 1100D)
  • Displaying an image on a computer screen in real time and 1000D)
  • Autofocus, as well as focus adjustment in manual mode from a computer (Canon EOS-1D Mark IV, Canon EOS-1D Mark III, EOS-1Ds Mark III, 5D Mark II, 7D, 40D, 50D, 60D, 600D, 550D, 500D, 450D, 1100D and 1000D)
  • Camera control in movie mode, including focusing, capturing movies, and downloading clips to a computer (Canon EOS-1D Mark IV, 5D Mark II, 7D, 60D, 600D, 550D, 500D, and 1100D)
  • Photobooth Mode: Automatically captures a series of photos at set intervals with given parameters with subsequent automatic printing on the printer (both several photos per sheet, and one photo per sheet, which is also configurable) - an excellent solution for reporting from corporate parties, weddings and other celebrations. The mode only works with JPEG format
  • Viewing photos in high resolution full screen immediately after taking a picture
  • Ability to view footage while the camera continues to take pictures
  • Tools for fans of automatic shooting at specified time intervals (Time Lapse), such as shooting a sunset or a flower blooming
  • View photos in color or black and white
  • Automatic HDR shooting with bracketing - up to 15 frames in a series with a variation in shutter speed or aperture
  • Integration with Photomatix Pro for automatic merging of captured HDR
  • Record photos directly to HDD computer

On the big screen can be displayed:

  • Flashing overexposure zones
  • A grid over the image, and the grid parameters can be configured by the user
  • B/W mode
  • Focus point image overlay

Practice with DSLR Remote Pro

I repeat - since I have a Canon 30D DSLR, which is only partially supported by the program, some of the functions for me will remain “behind the scenes”, not implemented. Of course, managing the process of taking pictures from a computer will first of all be convenient in order to view the future frame not on the tiny screen of the camera, but on the large display of a laptop or desktop. This way you can ideally align the future frame along the grid, notice the flare in time, foreign objects in the frame, etc. Surely every amateur photographer wondered: why is my screen so small, if it were bigger! My camera does not have a Live View mode, and it is not trained to shoot video, so I focused on the few program functions that are available to me.

Setting program options

Before you start working with the program, you need to configure some of its options. Oddly enough, but the default values, which are shown in screenshot 2, completely suited me, and there are not so many settings themselves. I only changed the folder where the program will put the photo files. By the way, I did not find the checkbox "Write photos to the camera's memory card", that is, all photos are automatically copied immediately to the computer's hard drive, bypassing the camera's memory card.

HDR shooting

Since I love experimenting with HDR shooting, the first thing I did was explore this option. Everything is simple here: you need to set the camera mode to M, RAW, AWB, ISO 100 for minimal noise, select the correct shutter speed for the desired aperture, the value of which is selected from the estimated depth of field, I chose F11. Next, focus (you can use half-press autofocus, you can use manual mode), then turn off autofocus with the switch on the lens and connect the camera to the computer. This completes the camera setup.

Now you can move on to setting up the program. Screenshots 3 and 4 show the bracketing settings for HDR shooting. In the first list, you can select the number of frames (I usually did 3 or 5, I just don’t need more for shooting in nature), and in the second - the exposure shift step (I chose 1 stop). After that, be sure to select the option to change exactly the shutter speed (Shutter speed), so that the aperture is always constant to achieve the best depth of field. Who wants to experiment - try changing the aperture ... something tells me that little good will come of this, although who knows!

Photo 5. A simple scheme for connecting a computer to a camera.
Filmed on the phone, as the camera is busy at the moment :-)

The camera is mounted on a tripod, configured and connected to a computer, hit the F8 button and enjoy the result. Photos are taken with a delay of about 3 seconds, after a couple of seconds they already appear on the computer display. Photo 5 was taken on a phone, besides against the sun, so only the reflection of the assistant (Sasha, hello!) was displayed on the computer screen, and not the workspace of the program, as I had hoped.

I could not resist, and immediately decided to glue HDR in Photoshop CS5 on the spot. The laptop battery ran out immediately, as soon as I managed to save my work :-) I believe that the technical side of the work is now clear. The question remains - and who will come to mind on a clear, fine day, you can take a tripod, camera and computer with you for a walk, and even strain your companion with requests for help ... One can cope with such a pile of equipment, there is nothing complicated here, but it's inconvenient! The USB cord is short, so you have to hold the computer in your hands.

But the camera remains completely still during HDR shooting, which is very important for accurate gluing of exposures. Such a scheme of work is more suitable for shooting interiors of premises where there is no hurry, where it is possible to put a laptop on some chair or stool. And the accuracy inside the premises will be amazing - the camera is stationary. Conveniently! And the result on the screen of the laptop will be visible, plus everything inside the premises will certainly be 220 volts.

Another such scheme is suitable for shooting a series of photographs at intervals, for example, for editing a video of equipment assembly, sunset, how a flower blooms, in order to protect the store at night :-). Surely everyone has seen such videos, and they are filmed in this way, it's called Time Lapse. The only problem is that you need a very powerful laptop battery (or a 220V generator?) to shoot something like this in nature. There is a special cable for the camera that allows you to do this operation without a computer, besides, no one has canceled a simple stopwatch! It would be a wish, wouldn't it?

One thing I can say for sure - such an action attracts the general attention of passing vacationers. And getting a blessing to fuss with a laptop and a tripod inside the temple will be almost unrealistic, I tried: - (And what a poignant photo I missed looking at the rays of the sun, which created stunningly beautiful lighting inside the church of St. John Chrysostom in the Nikolsky Monastery in Staraya Ladoga! I love this beauty with all my heart, but I'm forbidden to take a photo...

Integration with Photomatix Pro

If someone decides to shoot HDR using a computer, it will be extremely convenient for him to integrate the DSLR Remote Pro program with another program created specifically for merging HDR - Photomatix Pro. I like everything in this program, except for the most important thing - today Photomatix Pro does not know how to work correctly with moving objects in frames, which I have repeatedly noted in my articles on the topic of HDR. And Photoshop CS5 can do it with amazing accuracy.

By the way, almost nowhere in the help for the DSLR Remote Pro program does it say anything about how to set up this very integration. Google and the forums helped me sort out this problem. Pay attention to screenshots 3 and 4 - there is a checkmark at the bottom and a bat file is registered. If you have Photomatix Pro installed, do the same and it will work.

As a result, we get a glued HDR with default settings and an *.hdr file that can be later opened in Photomatix Pro and edited as you wish. Who is interested in fiddling with scripts - you are welcome: using editing bat file finer adjustment of gluing parameters is also possible.

Photo booth mode

This tool works only with JPEG format and is intended for automatic shooting and subsequent gluing of contact lists and collages. Here are the tool settings options:

The only practical application I could think of for this feature is that if you put the camera on a tripod in a corner somewhere at a corporate party, you can get prints of fun collages from the photos that the camera takes with this program.

There is another feature of the Photobooth tool - shooting a portrait against a green screen. Hang a green screen, turn on this mode and grimacing in front of the lens. The program will automatically cut out the green background on the received images and replace it with any image of your choice. Autocollage!

It remains to be hoped that if serious programmers from a serious company have paid so much attention and time to this tool, then someone needs it and is in demand by someone. I didn't deal with him.

Some Conclusions

pros

  • Light, fast and self-sufficient a program for controlling a camera from a computer, which is significantly superior in its functions to most known analogues.
  • Stable bug-free work even on a weak laptop.
  • Support for most modern DSLRs, there is also a version for PowerShot compacts.
  • Integration with Photomatix Pro. You can set up automatic opening of photos after shooting in any other program, but HDR merging is only available in conjunction with Photomatix Pro.

Minuses

  • No file browser. They filmed a series, closed the program - everything previously filmed in it will no longer be possible to watch.
  • No thumbnail view, only rewind and fast forward within the current photo session. You also have to open a photo browser (for example, ACDSee Pro 4) in parallel with the program in order to navigate the footage.
  • No zoom photo within the active window. Look pixel-by-pixel will not work.
  • Price. The program is by no means free. Windows version DSLR Remote Pro are asking for $175. By the way, Canon releases its own programs, which are completely free for owners of DSLRs (for example, ZoomBrowser EX); but these programs allow you to do only a small part of what the DSLR Remote Pro can do.

Summary

  • I shoot a lot of objects, and it is extremely convenient for me to control the camera from a computer: I don’t have to constantly poke a flash drive back and forth, rewrite something, open it ... I took it off and immediately saw the result on a large (compared to the camera screen) laptop screen , and the files are already neatly folded into desired folder. The beauty!
  • Personally, I'm not prepared to pay $175 for this. I have Lightroom 3, which allows me to do pretty much everything except HDR shooting, of course.

© Compiling a review, all photos in the article, Konstantin Birzhakov, May 12, 2011
Based on materials from the Breeze Systems official website
The author of the review cannot be held responsible for the accuracy of information taken from open sources.
Any reprint only with the written permission of the author of the review.

On January 24, libgphoto2 and gphoto2 version 2.4.8 were released for download. Even more subtly, on February 1, gtkam-0.1.17 was released. The appearance of the latter is not reflected even on the first page of the project, so the program 0.1.16.1 still appears at the time of writing the article (end of February). dated December 2008, and only by clicking on the Download link, you can find out that the program has been updated. In my opinion, an epochal event has taken place, because until that time there was a task in digital photography that could only be realized using computers under Windows control or Mac OS X. Namely, the task remote control using a computer with Canon live image SLR cameras. For the gPhoto2 program itself, perhaps the event is not so significant - a few more cameras have been added to those 1100 with which it already knows how to work. However, for many tasks, especially in scientific and technical photography, only remote control from a computer allows you to fully realize all the advantages of digital photography. Among the manufacturers of SLR cameras, Canon is the only one that offers free program EOS Utility, which includes the PC remote control program CameraSetting / Remote Shooting. I wrote briefly about its capabilities in an article on the Canon EOS 450D camera. Unfortunately, the camera does not come with a free operating system capable of running the included software. There are signs of monopoly collusion :-). Given that the photographer has no time to be distracted during shooting, and it is extremely reckless to load the laboratory computer with extraneous tasks during the experiment, I believe that a bootable Live CD with an OS that allows you to run only programs for the camera would be in demand. If desired, the photographer would have the opportunity to work on someone else's computer without violating its settings.

As I have shown in the software article and later in the calibration article, today under Linux all photographic tasks can be solved. All but one. In order to use one of the most suitable cameras for laboratory photography, such as the Canon EOS 1000D, there was no necessary software. Generally speaking, the ability to work with this camera was announced in the previous version of the libgphoto2 library. But then it was still only a hint of efficiency, I really didn’t manage to work with it. I remind you that the main one is the libgphoto2 program, and gphoto2 is the interface command line and gtkam is GUI to this library.

gPhoto2 allows you to see the picture in text mode in the style of the 80s, funny, but in practice it only allows you to assess the presence of movement in the frame.

Gtkam allows you to view and download photos on a memory card for almost all supported cameras, change settings and remotely release the shutter for many, and finally, for some, you can also see a live picture on the computer screen.

Here it is, finally done. You can see a live picture on the computer screen in graphics mode, you can control the focus of the lens. The photo in the header with the multiplying pictures shows that the remote view pictures are actually updating. So far, this is not as comfortable as in the EOS Utility program, which, by the way, it seems that no one has yet been able to get to work under Wine. The gtkam program demonstrated the operability of the libgphoto2 library, and now that the main task of interacting with the camera has been solved, the photographer can take a chance and try to write a graphical interface that is convenient for him, to which, as I plan to add, control not only the camera, but also the sled, its moving. When shooting macro, the photographer's hands are sometimes too rough a tool and it's better to do everything remotely. On the this moment Screenshots of gtkam are as follows.

The main window of the program with a folder tree and thumbnails of pictures on the memory card. You can right-click to select "Capture" and bring up the preview window.

The picture changes much more slowly than in the Windows program, but already in the version that can be downloaded from SVN, significant progress has been made in this matter. No screen magnifier yet. Pressing the "Parameters" button opens a window with six tabs.

The first tab is responsible for focusing. The lens is controlled by 6 buttons that allow you to move the lens back and forth with different steps. Unfortunately, in this implementation, you must select a step and click the "Apply" button. Moreover, in order to take the next step, you must either change its value, or take a zero step, it will not be possible to move twice with the same step. The autofocus button also appears in the menu, but it does not function yet. It can be assumed that further focusing will be carried out by desktop computer, and not the camera processor, which will potentially allow us to use not only native lenses, but also a separate drive for any others.

The second tab of the configuration window has changed little compared to previous versions, in it you can set the date and time and specify where to save the picture - to a memory card or to a computer.

The third tab gives us information about the status of the camera.

The fourth very long tab allows you to set the recording format and white balance.

The fifth tab allows you to set exposure parameters and shooting mode. So in case of aperture priority, you can set exposure compensation, shooting mode: single shot, burst, and timer. And of course, the diaphragm itself.

The last tab is responsible for communication with the computer.

That, in fact, is all I wanted to say. Linux is an operating environment for do-it-yourselfers. The tool in the form of the libgphoto2 library is given to us, it's time to start creating our own Photographic complexes. Although I have not been able to get Helmut Dersch's 2005 program (H. Dersch) from 2005 to work with the Canon EOS 1000D, it seems to me very tempting on the net, including the PDA. P.S.

The idea that the camera is computer peripherals, I promoted back in the last century. Then, by the way, as a percentage of the total number of cameras, management was more common. However, today cameras can solve much more tasks and the approach to them must be individual, which means that programming is part of the functions of the photographer, as well as choosing a scene and shooting mode. The firm cannot know what a particular photographer needs, but, unfortunately, does not give him the tool to do the job himself. A programming tool designed specifically for the photographer, in my memory, was offered only by Kodak, along with its early cameras, such as Kodak DC265, then the creators picked up the idea and. So far, gPhoto2 is far from these projects in terms of friendliness and documentation, but open source codes and the GPL license leave me hope to live to see this bright time.

In this material, I will give as an example the instructions for shooting with a camera connected to a computer. But first, a few technical details...

Most likely, your USB cable available on the farm does not exceed 1.8 m. To do this, it is best to purchase an extension cable "USB-mother - USB-dad", through which the cord from the camera should be connected, and if you try, you can certainly find a solid and long USB cable that can connect the camera directly to a PC.

Next thing to watch out for... USB data transfer isn't endless, so don't be upset if you plug in the 10m cable and find that the computer can't see the camera. To prevent this from happening, be careful with the cord, check its sheath and filters at both ends. True, and this is not a guarantee that a long cord will successfully fulfill its mission. Therefore, if I were you, I would rather limit myself to a 5-meter cord, which certainly will not let you down. This is what a USB cable looks like in a winding and with a filter:

There are products in an opaque shell:

The next subtlety ... If you are the owner of a Nikon camera, make sure that PTP mode is activated on it, and not Mass Storage, that is, an information storage device. In this case, your computer will "see" the camera only as a flash drive. If you have a Canon camera, then there may be differences. For example, the 5D MkII model will always be determined in the mode we need. So, if you have connected everything, and the camera is not yet visible, then you should open the instructions for the camera and read what it says about connection types.

So, we are done with the technical side. Now a few words about photography in Aperture, Lightroom and Capture One.

Aperture and Lightroom share the same steps, so I'll summarize the steps:

From the File menu, go to Tether>Start session (in Aperture) and File>Tethered Capture>Start Tethered Capture (in Lightroom):

We will see the settings window:

In these windows, we need to set the parameters for shooting, register metadata, and in Aperture also select a preset for processing (in Lightroom, presets are determined during shooting). From this moment, your entire structure is considered ready to start shooting. This is what Tether Capturing looks like in Aperture and Lightroom:

And here it is, after a couple of shots. By the way, you can activate the shutter button both on the camera and in the program itself:

Finally, I’ll add that in Lightroom, on the control panel, you can select a preset to use for the frame you just shot:

For Capture One, the steps look a little different, probably due to the fact that the program is mainly designed for medium format cameras, which are usually used in studios and are usually connected to a PC. Tether capturing is located on the main control panel:

That is, you can start taking pictures "on the spot":

In the case of Capture One, you should pay attention to one subtlety: if one day you make any adjustments to a particular image, the same default settings will be applied to subsequent frames you take, so in order to avoid mental self-flagellation of yourself and your photographic abilities, check the converter settings.

Looking at the following illustration, you will notice that the third photo has the same WB as the second:

And one more touch to the treasury of information about Capture One. More recently, the creators of the program have introduced a client for iOS, which provides the ability to show the customer's iPad / iPhone just taken photos, sending them over Wi-Fi.

User Reviews

Great program for printing ID photos! Very convenient photo markup, beautiful interface - everything you need. Replacing the clothes in the photo works just fine.

Nikolai Biryukov, Moscow

I tried different programs to prepare photos for documents, but settled on the development of AMS Software. Why? Firstly, the program is very affordable, even the staff does not need special training. Secondly, there are all the necessary features. Thirdly, great support users.

Arkady Mikhailov, Novosibirsk city

Canon's Virtual Remote Control from AMS Software allows you to solve a number of urgent tasks of automating the photo business, including the preparation of photos for documents. Canon camera control software from a computer allows you to:

  • Take pictures, by pressing a button in the program. In this case, the operator can be with his back to the client or even in another room. The snapshot will be immediately saved to the computer and displayed in the program window.
  • Take pictures in the usual way by pressing the shutter button of the camera. However, made the picture is instantly transferred to the computer and opens in the program. Thus, you can significantly save time - immediately after photographing, start processing the image.
  • Open photo for processing in any graphic editor. Immediately after taking a photo, you can open the photo for editing during external program such as Adobe Photoshop.
  • Automate the process of preparing a photo for documents. The Canon Camera Control Module from a Computer is included in full version programs .

The program works in operating systems Windows 2000, XP, Vista, Windows 7,8,10. Can also be used on laptops.

Canon Virtual Camera Remote supports the following camera models.

Canon DSLRs:

  • EOS-1D Mark II
  • EOS 20D
  • EOS-1Ds Mark II
  • EOS 350D (Kiss Digital N/REBEL XT)
  • EOS Mark II
  • EOS-1D Mark II N
  • EOS 30D
  • EOS 400D (Kiss Digital X//REBEL XTi)
  • EOS-1D Mark III
  • EOS40D
  • EOS-1Ds Mark III
  • EOS 450D (DIGITAL REBEL Xsi/Kiss X2)
  • EOS 1000D (DIGITAL REBEL XS/KISS F)
  • EOS 50D
  • EOS Mark III
  • EOS EOS 500D (Kiss X3/EOS REBEL T1i)
  • EOS 7D
  • EOS-1D Mark IV
  • EOS EOS 550D (Kiss X4/EOS REBEL T2i)
  • EOS EOS 60D
  • EOS EOS 1100D
  • EOS EOS 600D

Tethered photography, or shooting with a connected computer, is a photographic technique that has been practiced by many professional photographers for many years. In short, tethering allows you to connect your camera to a computer or laptop and view digital images almost instantly on the device, seconds after shooting. Because of the cost and availability, "tethered shooting" has generally only been used by photographers who work hard in the studio and produce very high quality commercial shots. However, these technologies have become much cheaper and easier to operate, so they are now used by both professionals and amateurs.

If you have ever wondered about "tethered shooting", then this article will give you short review process, and also describes some steps for an easy start.

Photo Tyler Ingram

What is "tethered shooting"?

Tethered shooting is the process of connecting your camera to a computer, laptop, or even smartphone using a cable or wireless app. After the devices are successfully connected, all images taken by the camera are immediately sent to the computer and saved to a predefined folder. You can then see the full size image on your computer screen and even do some post-processing.

Advantages « shooting on the leashes»

The main advantage of "tethered shooting" is the ability to quickly view the image on a large monitor in a few seconds after shooting. This allows you and your client to examine the image on the big screen and make the necessary corrections if needed. Depending on the device pairing software you're using, you may even need to do some editing. You and your client can see exactly how the subject is photographed and make sure your vision matches. In general, this kind of cooperation should lead to a better result.

Disadvantages of "tethered shooting"

The ability to view photos instantly has several drawbacks.

First, you or your client can get too hung up on small details while studying the image, and this will slow down the photo session. So it's important to meet your client's expectations and move forward at the same time without focusing too much on the details. Second, tethering can drain the battery of the camera and the connected computer. If your photo session will last longer than an hour, then you will need additional batteries and an outlet nearby. Finally, connection software can be finicky and refuse to work without apparent reason, so you'll need a backup plan in case it goes down.

What you need for "tethered shooting"

The traditional and most reliable way to connect a camera to a computer is to use a cable. There are many different cables and ports available, so which one to use will depend on the model of devices used. Some digital cameras with built-in Wi-Fi even offer wireless connection or remote shooting, but these are generally limited to use on a tablet or mobile device, not a laptop.

1. Very long (i.e. 4-5 meters) USB cable to connect the camera and laptop;

2. Software like Adobe Lightroom or Canon EOS Utility 3;

3. Optional - JerkStopper, to prevent accidental pulling out of the USB cable.

4. Optional – portable laptop table like Tether Tools’ Aero Table

Tether table Aero is a lightweight, durable aluminum platform that attaches to nearly every tripod or stand, turning into a handy table for a laptop or camera accessory.

To be clear, there are many programs for connecting a computer and a camera, but in this article we will look at two inexpensive and simple ways: Adobe Lightroom and EOS Utility 3.

Simple "tether shooting" withLightroom

The quickest and probably the easiest way to start "tethered shooting" is to use Adobe function Lightroom's Tethered Capture. Follow these steps to set it up:

Step 1 - Connect your camera to your laptop

Connect your camera to your laptop with via USB cable. Then turn on the camera.

Step2 - launch Tethered Capture in Lightroom

Open Lightroom and go to File > Remote control camera> Start remote shooting.

Step 3 – select settings

In the settings of the Remote Capture Options dialog box, you have the option to specify a Capture Name (for example, "Remote Capture Test" by specifying photo names, selecting file locations, adding metadata, and keywords. Pay special attention to where your files will be saved so that you can find them later. Once all settings are configured, click OK.

If everything is done correctly, a narrow control panel (highlighted in red below) for some of the remote shooting settings will appear on the screen, as well as a Library in which the remote shooting photos will be placed.

However, finding a camera for Lightroom is not uncommon. If you've followed all the steps above and are still seeing the notification shown below, then try to resolve the issue by first making sure your Lightroom version and your camera's firmware are up to date. Also, check if your camera is compatible with Lightroom remote shooting. Note: There are third party plugins for incompatible cameras like Fuji X-T1, do a search for your camera model and you may find a solution.

Finally try another USB cable and make sure it's working. But if you're looking for a more stable way to shoot remotely, consider the other option below.

Reliable “tether shooting” withEOS Utility 3

If you are photographing digital camera Canon, take the CD that came with it and install EOS Utility 3 on your computer. When the camera is connected to a computer, you can use this software to control the camera remotely and take pictures. This method is much more reliable and stable than using remote shooting in Lightroom.

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