The article will focus on how to connect one, two or more bulbs in one and two-button switches, schemes are considered that will simplify the course of work.

General scheme of premises electrification

The general scheme of electrification of the premises can be conditionally divided into two parts - supplying consumers and providing lighting.

In the first case, everything is simple - wiring is thrown from the switchboard, (if necessary, it is divided), due to which branches are created, and supplied to the sockets, through which consumers are connected to the power grid.

At the same time, the sockets themselves are constantly energized after connection.

In the case of the organization of the lighting of the room, it is not so simple, since it is necessary to create a branch that provides for the possibility of de-energizing the lighting elements - bulbs.

For this, the circuit provides for switches (knife switches), the task of which is, if necessary, to interrupt and restore the voltage supply circuit to the consumer.

For the normal functioning of lighting in the room and ensuring safety, there are certain schemes for connecting lighting devices through switches to the mains.

Moreover, there are several varieties of them, which allows you to organize the connection of light bulbs according to the provided layout.

For example, with just one switch, you can control the lighting of several rooms, and independently of each other.

Previously, we used switches that cut into the wiring. That is, the wiring was thrown directly from the switchboard to the bulb holder, and then the phase conductor of the wire was cut in the right place, and a breaker was installed in this gap.

This method of powering the lighting elements is now practically not used and the types of lamp power supply are somewhat different, but the principle is the same.

General Provisions

The peculiarities of creating such branches largely depend on the number of lamps connected to them, as well as their control using a switch.

But in any case, the created branch includes:

• Switch (one-, two-, three-key);
• Bulbs with sockets;
• Junction box;
• Wires (two- and three-core).

A little about the features of the breaker.

Any switch has two outputs - input and output (there may be several of the latter).

Moreover, both of them refer to the same line, that is, if a phase is connected to the input terminal, then it will also be at the output.

By moving the key to a certain position, the contacts of these terminals are connected or disconnected, thereby closing-opening the circuit.

Safety precautions.

Before describing the connection methods, let us immediately recall the safety precautions during work.

To avoid electric shock, disconnect power from the mains and take measures to prevent accidental re-supply of power before work is completed.

Its supply should be restored only after complete laying and connection of all the component elements of the branch, as well as ensuring reliable insulation of the wire connection points.

One lamp - one switch

The simplest scheme consists of one lighting element and a one-key switch.

Theoretically, the connection does not differ from that described above - the zero core goes directly from the switchboard to the consumer, but a breaker is inserted into the phase one. But almost everything looks a little more complicated.

To connect this type, first of all, you should decide on the place of installation of the junction box.

It should be installed as close as possible to the installation site of the circuit breaker, and should not be easily accessible.

The number of wires required to create a branch directly depends on this. Its optimal location is under the ceiling above the switch.

• Determine the location of the lighting element - the lamp (for example, in the center of the ceiling);
• We choose the place of installation of the breaker (conditionally - below the junction box);
• We put the wiring from the switchboard into the junction box;
• We lay the wiring along the ceiling (along the shortest possible path) from the lamp holder and also put it in the box;
• It remains to lay the wire from the switch to the junction box.

For simplicity, the wire going from the board to the box will be denoted as "input", and from the box to the consumer - "output".

For a circuit with a one-button switch and one lamp, two-wire wires are used.

After laying all the wiring (in an open or closed way), it remains only to connect everything correctly, and for this it is important to determine which core is phase and which is zero.

You can find out with the help of an indicator screwdriver, making an appropriate check on the terminals from the switchboard before turning off the power supply.

To make it clearer, consider how to connect everything correctly, using a different color of the braiding of the wires of the wiring.

For example, to create a power branch of a lighting element, a wire with cores colored in brown and blue was used.

When connecting the input wire to the switchboard, the brown core was connected to the phase terminal, and the blue one to the zero.

Knowing this, it remains only to connect everything correctly in the junction box.

Since the "zero" goes directly to the consumer, we connect the blue (zero) conductor of the input to the corresponding colored conductor output.

It remains to include a switch in the circuit. A two-wire wire is also thrown from it to the junction box, but in this case it is two parts of one line (phase).

We take the brown (phase) conductor of the input and connect it to any of the conductors, for example, also with the brown one, leading to the switch.

It remains only to connect the blue core coming from the switch to the brown core of the output.

This we examined in detail the way to connect one lamp to a one-key breaker.

All subsequent schemes are built according to the described principle, therefore, we will indicate only their key points.

Connecting a two-button switch

The next will be a circuit in which a two-button switch is involved.

A feature of its design is the presence of two output terminals, each of which can be connected to the input (phase) output independently of each other.

This allows you to create two separate branches from one lead-in wire, for power control of which its own switch key is provided.

Usually, a two-button switch is used to power two lamps, but there are situations when only one lighting element needs to be powered, that is, create one branch.

In this case, the connection is the same as described above. The only thing is to decide which key will be working and connect a phase conductor to its output terminal.

With this connection, the second key will be disabled.

Now let's consider the features of connecting two light bulbs to such a breaker. That is, in fact, we create two branches from one phase core.

The difference from the circuit described above boils down to the fact that we will have two outputs from the box (each to its own lamp).

That is, 4 wires must enter the junction box - input, two output and from the switch.

Another important point is that a three-core wire will have to be laid from the breaker to the junction box.

One of the cores will be connected to the input terminal of the switch, and the other two - to the output.

For example, the third color in a 3-wire cable will be green.

The connection is done like this:

• The zero wire (blue) from the input is connected to two output leads of the corresponding color (a twist consisting of three cores should be obtained);
• The input phase wire (brown) is connected with the same color, leading to the switch;
• The other two conductors of the cable leading to the switch must be connected to the phase conductors of the terminals. That is, the blue one must be connected with the brown one branch, and the green one with the brown other branch.

Hello, dear readers and guests of the "Notes of an Electrician" website.

In connection with the increasing demand for the installation of electrical wiring without junction boxes, they began to ask me more and more questions about the circuit for connecting switches with this design.

With sockets, everything is simple here - the power cable is connected directly to the clamps of the outlet, and from it, if necessary, the following sockets are connected. This connection is called a "loopback".

Connecting sockets with a loop is not prohibited, the main thing is to comply with a number of PUE requirements for connecting a PE conductor, but I will tell you about this in my next article. If you do not want to miss new issues, then subscribe to the site's mailing list.

Well, today I will tell you with illustrative examples about connecting switches without junction boxes.

According to many citizens, junction boxes interfere and spoil the exterior design of a renovated apartment or house. Of course, who wants to see a lot of plastic caps on expensive wallpaper !? Therefore, each of the customers wants to hide these boxes out of sight as much as possible, thereby forgetting the most important requirement of the PUE that the wire connections must always be accessible for inspection and repair.

Let's consider several options for the implementation of hidden junction boxes.

The first option is to install junction boxes on the ceiling behind the stretch web.

If a malfunction suddenly arises, then the stretch ceiling can always be removed, carried out the necessary work and installed back. But sometimes a malfunction can not be found and detected immediately, or it has crept in more than one room. Then you will have to remove the ceilings throughout the apartment.

In our country, for example, removing the ceiling in one room costs about 1,000 rubles. So count it! To remove and install a stretch ceiling, for example, about 6,000 rubles will be released in three rooms. An expensive pleasure ...

The second option is slightly better, but it is usually used if the ceiling is made of plasterboard. It consists in making special inspection hatches in the ceiling through which access to the junction boxes opens. The hatch is usually placed somewhere in the corner of the room and, of course, all junction boxes must also be installed in the location of the hatch.

In principle, this option can also be used for stretch ceilings, but just how to implement such a hatch in a stretch ceiling ?! The answer to this question was not even given to me by the appropriate specialists, so I had to install it in a corner behind a stretch ceiling in one of the apartments without any inspection hatches.

The third option is wiring without junction boxes.

Let's talk about this in more detail today.

To begin with, wiring without junction boxes certainly has its advantages.

1. Absence of unnecessary connections of wire cores

The logic is simple, the fewer different kinds of connections, the more reliable the network. Poorly made wire core connections, in addition to incorrectly selected protection device ratings, can lead to poor contact, heating and ultimately to open circuit or short circuit.

Unobstructed access to the wire connection. The mechanism of the socket or switch is removed, and access is open.

3. Reducing the cost of electrical installation

With the use of this method, the cost of electrical installation work is certainly reduced, because the number of points to be installed and the number of wires to be connected becomes much less.

The disadvantages of installing electrical wiring without junction boxes can be attributed only to a certain overspending of the cable during installation.

Having examined all the advantages and disadvantages of this method, let's go directly to the circuit breakers connection diagrams.

In my example, the electrical wiring in the apartment is made without junction boxes, so the power cable, in this case VVGng (3x1.5), from the apartment board goes directly into the socket of the one-button switch. This, by the way, is the same bathroom, pro.

The second cable in the socket is an outgoing line for lighting, which is also made with a VVGng cable (3x1.5).

have a depth of 45 (mm), so it is quite problematic to install a sensor switch with a depth of 33 (mm) there and lay all the wires, but you can! By the way, ordinary one-button switches have much smaller dimensions, so most likely there will be no problems with their installation.

For clarity, I enclose a wiring diagram for connecting a one-button switch without a junction box.

Let me remind you what the familiar looks like to us.

But we will consider the diagram of its connection, but only without the junction box.

Here everything is similar to the previous scheme with a one-button switch, only instead of one lighting group, two are used.

Thus, now we have not two cables in the socket, but three. One cable is a power cable from the apartment board, the second is a cable for one lighting group, and the third is for another lighting group or a fan, as in my example.

I will show you the connection diagram on the same switch from Livolo, just imagine that it is not one-touch, but two-touch. Its external design is exactly the same, only the internal circuit has been changed and one more terminal L2 (Load) has been added.

We connect the incoming phase from the apartment board to the common terminal L (In) of the two-touch switch, connect the switching phase of the outgoing lighting cable to the L1 (Load) terminal, and connect the switching phase of the exhaust fan outgoing cable to the L2 (Load) terminal. We connect the zeros and the protective PE conductors to each other, respectively, in the same socket using the Vago terminals.

For clarity, I attach a wiring diagram.

Let's consider one more situation.

If you have a fan with a timer, then the circuit will have a slightly different look.

The scheme, in principle, is the same as the previous one, but the outgoing cable to the fan is connected in a different way:

• white core is connected to the common terminal L (In) of the switch
• blue core - to the zero terminal (N)
• yellow-green core - to the L2 (Load) terminal of the switch

I will show one more case when one-button and two-button switches are installed in one place, and they need to be connected without a junction box.

In this case, 4 cables are brought out to the socket.

Their food is common and taken from the apartment board. The one-button switch will control the lighting in the kitchen, and the two-button switch will control two groups of lighting in the living room.

Everything here is similar to the previous circuit with a two-button switch, only we need to make a jumper between the common terminal (L) of the two-button switch and the common terminal (L) of the one-button switch, i.e. we need to supply the supply phase to the one-button switch.

Fortunately, it is not problematic to do this, since most often, on branded switches, each terminal has the ability to connect two conductors. If you do not have the ability to connect two conductors to one terminal at once in the switch, then you will have to install an additional Vago phase terminal in the socket, thereby taking up even more space in the socket.

We connect the incoming phase from the apartment board to the common terminal (L) of the two-button switch, connect the switching phase of the outgoing cable of the 1st group of living room lighting to the terminal (1) of the two-button switch and to terminal (2) - the switching phase of the outgoing cable of the 2nd lighting group of the living room ...

From the common terminal (L) of the two-button switch, we make a jumper to the common terminal (L) of the one-button switch, and we connect the switching phase of the kitchen lighting to the terminal (1) of the one-button switch.

And now it remains for us to connect all zeros and protective conductors to the corresponding Vago terminals (N) and (PE). I placed the zero terminal (N) in the lower socket. it has more free space and the (PE) terminal is at the top.

For clarity, I attach a wiring diagram.

Then I install the switch mechanisms in the socket box and you're done.

By the way, don't pay attention to the inverted switches here, because the horizontal frame was not purchased by mistake. I flipped the switches 90 ° so that the finishers could wrap plaster tiles around the switch frame. In the future, instead of a horizontal frame, I will install a vertical one, and flip the switches accordingly.

Addition: if suddenly, for some reason, in one socket you do not fit wires, connecting terminals or you cannot drown the mechanisms, then you can install another socket next to it, in which you can make all the connections, and then install the mechanism on this socket in the form of a plastic plug.

In fact, it will turn out like a junction box, but in one block of socket boxes. Just keep in mind that not all series of mechanisms have plugs. For example, the Gloss series does not have such.

As you can see, there is nothing difficult in connecting switches without a junction box. In this way, you can collect more complex schemes than those presented in the article. In the near future I will be connecting pass-through and cross-over switches in a block with one-button switches, but I will tell you about this next time. So who is interested, then subscribe to the newsletter of the site "Notes of the Electrician", so as not to miss the release of a new article.

I suggest watching a video based on the materials of the article, suddenly the information in this form will seem more visual to you:

P.S. Thank you all for your attention. Until next time. At the end of the article, I would like to ask a counter question! How do you feel about the installation of electrical wiring without junction boxes?! Write your opinion in the comments below.

58 comments on the entry "Connecting switches without junction boxes"

great article

Dear Dmitry! Have you heard about SP 76.13330.2012 - the current version of SNiP 3.05.06-85? There is such a thing:

6.3.1.12 ... All connections shall be accessible for control, measurement and maintenance, with the exception of the following connections:
…
- made by welding or pressure testing ...

What can you say about this? Is it possible to assert, in your opinion, that this norm allows making connections in junction boxes, and then hiding the boxes, provided that these very connections are made by crimping or welding?

Sergey, the main documents for us (electricians) and according to which we are PUE, PTEEP, POTEU, IPISZ (SO 153-34.03.603-2003), lightning protection (SO 153-34.21.122-2003), medicine and Fire Regulations in Russian Federation. Naturally, this is not all the scientific and technical documentation that we use in our activities. But back to the question of hiding boxes when connecting by crimping or welding. I agree that it is allowed by the set of rules of the joint venture 76.13330.2012, but you try to prove it when handing over the object to the inspector of Rostekhnadzor, who will diligently point your finger in the PUE, clause 2.1.23. Faced with this more than once! And I can cite many more similar inconsistencies, but still! If you are installing industrial, production and other facilities, then I advise you to use the requirements of the PUE, believe me, there will be fewer problems during delivery. In private houses and apartments, I also recommend using the requirements of the PUE, although after that there will be no official delivery and inspection of the facility by inspectors.

Dear Dmitry! Could you explain how you get power to the sockets on the opposite (opposite) side of the room, to power the sockets there. Here is a moment with which I would say a big drawback in this type of installation for cable overruns, when it is necessary to equip outlets on the opposite wall from those already installed.

The article is interesting, you can use it.

I started renovating my apartment 4 years ago. and I wanted to make the ceiling stretch. We went to the shopping center to order the installation from professionals. (here everything is fine, they signed a contract and set a time for measurements).
We walked around the shopping center and my wife liked the built-in square lamp in the room where there will be a stretch ceiling, and they bought it.

Happy with acquisitions came home.

A couple of days later the measurer came. I measured everything and recorded everything. When I asked what kind of lighting would be, I brought him this lamp and he almost fell off the chair, says that it will not be possible to install it in response to my question why, and began to competently talk about the uniform tension of round and rectangular holes. To the persuasion, he answered that he would come up with something and, having removed the size of the lamp, left.

When the installers came to install everything, they began their preparatory work, checking the level and so on. and this is what they did to install the lamp: first, they installed the fixtures for the lamp (these are two bars that were attached to the ceiling), then they took a plastic frame 1 cm thick and 5 cm wide, the internal size of the frame was slightly larger than the size of the lamp. So they installed this frame at the level of the ceiling by attaching it to the plates with which they attach the profile for drywall. When the ceiling sheet itself was installed, they began to cut a hole for the lamp. first, a round hole was cut out, then gradually giving (cutting) a square shape to the hole, the canvas was glued to the frame with glue (Cosmofen). Then they screwed a lamp to two bars and everything is ready. The only thing they said was that you shouldn't use ordinary incandescent lamps. the ceiling will be very hot and the canvas may sag, so we use ordinary energy-saving lamps.

By the same principle, hatches can be installed to access boxes and other equipment in the ceiling space.

Peter, thanks for the detailed information.

Paul, I agree, this is the disadvantage of this method.

Dmitry, many professionals, such an installation without junction boxes in which the circuit and technical connection are assembled right behind the switch and sockets are called "Gynecology" And there are reasons for this.

With a mechanism in the form of a plug, it is still more acceptable, but the rest is not.
First, it makes it technically impossible to comply with the requirements of regulatory documents.
2.1.22. At the points of connection, branching and connection of conductors of wires or cables, a reserve of wire (cable) must be provided, which provides the possibility of re-connection, branching or connection.
THE MECHANISM OF THE SOCKET OR SWITCH IS INTERFERING.NO FREE SPACE.

2.1.24. At the points of connection and branching, wires and cables should not experience mechanical pulling forces.
PRESSES AND PULLS THE MECHANISM AGAIN FOR LACK OF FREE SPACE.

Also, due to the lack of free space, you can forget about the marking of wires, since some cable tags have a large marking area for signing the line. Which is also contrary to the NAP.

I had a chance to install lighting without junction boxes under the ceiling, I put the unsoldering right next to the switch socket boxes, I deepened the unsoldering with a small margin, so that after installation they could be closed at least a centimeter or two with a plaster mixture and then putty with wallpaper. I made holes in the sockets and unsolders so that, if necessary, pull the twists out of the desoldering outward. the junction boxes are not visible and access to the connections is always possible, you just need to remove the switch.

Konstantin, to be honest, I have not heard that installation without junction boxes was called gynecology. For me personally, on the contrary, it is more convenient and clearer to carry out the installation in this way. I gave the advantages of this method with the article, in addition I will add that there is no need to make disconnections, wriggling under the ceiling. The stock of wires in the box in the photographs clearly shows the stock - it is quite sufficient, I would even say in excess. When installing with junction boxes, I leave exactly the same margin. The same about mechanical efforts, where are they from there, if the wires are not stretched?! Tags are not a problem, even PVC pipes, even cable markers - no problem!

Igor, I don’t understand your indignation ?! This method does not violate regulatory requirements in any way!

I have been installing switches and sockets without junction boxes for more than twenty years. And I have never regretted it. For those who are afraid of inspectors, enlist the support of the designers. Dmitry, thank you for your articles. The presented materials are very clear. I like it, I read it with pleasure. Although, to be honest, I haven't found any big discoveries for myself, but it's still very interesting. I especially liked your articles about loading circuit breakers. I often recommend your articles to all friends and relatives as a textbook. I am personally interested in more serious things. And you can argue about the rules and regulations as much as you like, to hoarseness in the throat and nausea in the stomach. Sincerely, Victor.

excellent article but I have not seen the circuit of the pass-through switch

I propose for consideration such a lighting installation scheme without junction boxes, the installation of which we carry out in offices and residential buildings. The principle is as follows. In the group box, a lighting unit is organized on the basis of the corresponding groups of Weidmuller terminal blocks. There can be several such nodes in the shield.
From this node in the shield to each switch, a cable with a phase core leaves, which or which, through the same cable through the switch through other cores, returns to the shield to another terminal block, and from it, picking up PE and N, they go to the consumer, i.e. no junction boxes are needed all connections are assembled in the panel illumination unit. YES is not a budget option. The length of the cables increases on average, by about 25% plus, terminal blocks are also not cheap. But how many advantages:
- You don't have to climb anywhere, or open walls, ceilings and floors.
- You can rearrange the lighting in case of need.
- At any time I can measure the insulation resistance or ring any line without poking around.
- I can control the tightening of contacts.
- I can, where necessary, by means of automatic phase switching, keep a continuous power supply
- Can install soft starter, etc.

The size of the flap will also increase.

Victor, thank you.

Andrey, circuits with pass-through switches will be a little later. The article already turned out to be voluminous, so I decided to take the topic with pass-through switches into a separate article.

Viktor, met this option, but only in addition to this, the control of each lighting line was carried out through the controller, respectively, through intermediate relays. In this case, you can collect many scenarios for controlling the lighting of the object.

In my house I did it with junction boxes, tk. the house was not built as it should be, but as always - i.e. when it was necessary to live in some rooms, in others there was not even an understanding of the locations of the sockets.

As a result, on the second floor, I thought and thought - and took all the wiring from the ceiling to the attic. Yes, in violation of the PUE, because in the attic, the cables are in corrugations, and not in iron pipes. But at my own peril and risk, I consider this violation to be insignificant. The wiring is open, and if it were not an attic, but another floor (or if the attic was called an attic), then the PUE would be respected. Since you regularly climb into this attic in a residential building, I don't think it's so critical. Again, cables NG-LS, RCD 10-30 mA type A for all lines, including lighting, category B circuit breakers, etc.

But on the first floor, because of the distribution boxes, I make suspended cassette ceilings instead of stretch ceilings. There are options where the seams are almost invisible, they have a less office look. But if necessary, you take out one tile with your hands - and that's it, you have access to the box.

If it was not built at such an urgent pace and there would be time to think over everything and do it right away according to the mind - of course, I would lay a separate cable for each wiring product (switch, lamp, socket / block of sockets) and would distribute it into groups in the dashboard, set up would be control scenarios, etc. Fortunately, in a private house, the shield can be placed at least in the entire wall in size.

And the option proposed in the article, in my opinion, is a good compromise for small apartments, where everything is done once without counting on subsequent changes to the wiring diagram.

Answer: Admin 01/23/2017 at 22:48
Dmitry, if I have 20 lamps (20 outgoing lines + power supply), what a miracle should I cram such a volume of wires into the Installation Box d.68mm in the place with its mechanism. You can't physically put it there, even if you put another one next to it. You will have to install more than one. The whole battery will come out.
I’ll keep quiet as a reserve. By the way, its length should be equal to the removed and cleaned volume. This is vital for the restoration work. On a false wall, the stock is easier to make by hiding the extra wires behind the ceilings in the wall (as in your topic). And on solid walls this will not work.

“The same about mechanical efforts, where are they from there, if the wires are not stretched ?! "And if it's a stretch? Dmitry mechanisms are not so small in all series of the same Schneider, which is not inherent in all types of wiring products. I can demonstrate more than one outlet and more than one switch of different brands, both brands and budget manufacturers whose mechanism can barely fit into the Installation Box d.68mm about distribution connections, especially since the margin for such lines can be completely forgotten with such products.
What to order to do in such situations. Discourage the return of these items to the customer back to the store, citing the fact that I cannot physically accommodate them due to the fact that I do distributions at KU? In such situations, it will be reduced to only one refusal of the services of such a master.

And such an installation delivers unnecessary troubles with a full in cases of troubleshooting the same breakage. The floor of the house must be disassembled until you figure out from where and where such a master has power lines and their branches. The whole object is bare loops. After all, no such installer leaves power supply circuits. And if it is miraculously composed, it is not a fact that the owners themselves will preserve it. Especially if such an object is resold several times in a row.
Therefore, I am categorically against the existence of this kind of electrical work.

Konstantin. Totally agree with you. Delusional installation method. ... for craftsmen with crazy hands.

And how do you like this option. For me it’s not bad at all. And reliably

Let me remind the commentators that a similar article from the CA came out 4 years ago (probably, he was one of those, because of whom now "the demand for installation of electrical wiring without junction boxes is increasing"). So most of the questions asked here have already been sorted out several times (which does not prevent everyone from remaining unconvinced). I will directly quote one more advantage that Dmitry did not describe, although he did: “The advantage of installation in socket boxes is this. There is a FULL 220. IN ANYONE! Therefore, if you suddenly want to cram some cunning motion sensor or radio module that requires N power - you ... take it - and do it! "

Dmitry, the 222nd series of "Vago" has now been replaced by the 221st, it is the same, only smaller. Have you tried them?

And a question from me, again about vagi. PE connections must be non-separable without special tools. In the case of wagas, this is not done, but you are using them. What is this - a violation? Or is the logic here that there will be a switch mechanism on top of the vag, and you will have to use a screwdriver to remove it?

I myself am engaged in electrical installation, an interesting and informative site! signed for two years and always learn something new for myself!

For a long time I had a question for the author of these articles, about the hidden installation of electrical wiring in a wooden house? It is clear that it is better that it be open, but the customer does not always want it! According to the PUE, the installation of hidden wiring on a wooden base, if I am not mistaken, should be carried out in met. pipes !!! Such an installation in real life is simply not possible ... .. well, if yes, then it is very labor-intensive! Personally, I do it with an NG LS cable and in met. sleeve + good automata and ouzo! How do you do this type of installation?

Method as a method, but what is it all for? Well, not soviet times, when there was nothing but tin socket boxes and junction boxes, cotton or blue electrical tape, which itself unwound, and everything is not expensive, and is available - any, and so to be perverted ???

Konstantin, first of all, I do not agree with your categoricalness regarding the method of disconnecting the lighting networks in the installation boxes. There are many technological and aesthetic reasons why caring electricians are trying to come up with something and get away from using junction boxes in the form in which they are currently used. The proposed option is one of the possible for use, but not mandatory in all cases. Let's say your version, when you need to connect 20 lamps, this method does not work, it is stupid to drag 20 lines + power into one installation box. But there are apartments and offices where this option can normally be used only everything needs to be thought out, calculated and done carefully. Therefore, I think this option has a place to be.
Secondly, in your comments about the shortcomings of the way of opening the switches in the installation boxes, in my opinion, there is a lot that is correct, which must be taken into account when making these connections, but the distribution boxes are in the walls, behind the ceiling, etc. -This is problem. The problem must be solved. If this question interests you, what technical solutions would you suggest or do you think that nothing needs to be done?

Answer: Viktor
01/26/2017 at 01:29 PM
I don't think there is nothing to be done. Not at all. Nowadays, there are a lot of available ways. This is not the last century. I consider Radiation to be one of the most reliable ways to install electrical wiring. All technical wire connections in the switchboard. Something like a photo Sergey: 01/26/2017 at 07:29
Just be careful so there are special accessories for communication connections. Many will say it is expensive to pay a lot for "wires" but excuse me beauty requires financial sacrifices. After all, plastic surgeons do not make "beauty" for a penny either. By the way, to reduce the number of wires in our time, there are additional devices in the form of impulse relays, Remote Controllers, Microprocessor controllers. Which will perfectly help you save money on wires and space for cable routes. We select such devices locally.
If it is so hard with funds and you cannot do without junction boxes, then why not use modern finishing materials to mask them. Make the junction box invisible. By the way, I'll tell you a secret, such options are very popular with me in construction and repairs. Has anyone met such a finishing material as liquid wallpaper? So with the help of them you can safely disguise any junction box. To do this, you just need to drown it a little more than necessary. Just align its cover on a level with the wall. If the wall is putty with a thick layer, then such manipulations with its level can not be carried out, since the plasterers are calmly comparing it. As a result, you need to cut through the borders (edges of the lid) with a clerical knife in order not to dry out and remove the putty from the screws. After the liquid wallpaper is applied, the surface becomes ideally disguised, you cannot visually distinguish that there is something there, but if you go up and examine in detail, you can see small screws and a barely noticeable contour of the slot. Photo wallpapers can also be ideal for masking such elements. The only thing you need to choose the right picture so that you cannot visually distinguish the square or round outlines of the covers. The idea with a photo wallpaper in one case was not mine, but I personally liked it. My client abandoned liquid and pasted on his photo wallpaper the picture was of a night city and after finishing it looked sooo beautiful. And most importantly, even it was hard for me to find the camouflaged cover (it turned out to be hidden in the window of a multi-storey building).
At the expense of the ceilings. Let's talk to the master. For example, after reading in the topic, I saw that Dmitry wrote that the masters performing the installation of the stretch ceiling did not give him an answer as to how to hide the Driver, etc. This problem, among other things, is also solvable with junction boxes, on one condition if the customer chooses Led Panels as luminaires as additional lighting or as the main one. Here is an attached image such:
Behind their housings, junction boxes and other power supplies and controllers can be located. Since these Built-in panels are large and, as a result, it will be easy to access the electrical fittings behind them. But do not forget to indicate their location on the design wiring diagram, especially with a large number of lamps, so that as a result there would be no problems in finding them.
I admit Dmitry's option with a separate KU closed mechanism in the form of a lid, but with an error that the choice of KU will be the largest in diameter and depth. D.75mm H.50mm.

Konstantin, it's very interesting, you need to analyze all the material and choose where you can try. The admin chose an important topic, since it is necessary to leave the junction boxes wherever possible, especially in the lighting networks, arranging the disconnection of the electrical wiring either in the installation boxes or in the ways indicated in the comments. Personally, since 2011, I have been doing the installation of lighting wiring diagrams in the manner indicated in my comment on 01/24/2017. (I am trying to attach an image, but I don’t know how these pictures will turn out)
When installing outlet networks, I also use beam wiring. Each consumer or group of consumers, but taking into account that only one consumer can be included, I protect with my address auth. switch.

One shot turned out. This is the lighting node, which is assembled in e-mail. shield. Various lighting of eight rooms is powered from it, 5 pass-through switches are installed in one room. I will try to send a snapshot of the entire shield.

Dear admin! Could you create a topic where fellow electricians would express their opinions and methods of how to figure out the thieves of electricity in a horticultural cooperative? The accounting is general, the balance does not converge, you can't go to everyone's house (especially to walk around the attic and other hidden places in the house).

GOOD, but in a large apartment a few years later, suddenly there is some kind of breakdown, and I don't remember which socket or which switch works as a box for me.

Mark, as if you will remember where you have the necessary box, moreover, if it is hidden behind the ceiling. In installation without boxes, on the contrary, it is clearer, the supply line from the shield and 1-2-3 outgoing lines come to the socket. And all this in one place - there are 1-2 switches in the socket. Here you do not need to look for by and large - everything is logical and understandable.

Answer: Victor:
27.01.2017 at 19:39
Well here's a great build. If it was possible to deliver the class, I would. Completely excellent complete set with communication connections of power supply circuits in the switchboard. It would be so for everyone. It's nice to look at this, all the more to work in it.

Konstantin, there is a group of participants on the forum for the opinions and assessments, which I treat very attentively - even if our opinions differ and we look at some issue in different ways. Therefore, I am pleased that you gave such an assessment to the method and quality of assembly of the electrical circuit board.

Answer: victor:
01/29/2017 at 12:36
I am one of the participants in this forum. The nickname is the same as here. And what is your name on the forum, if not a secret?

Konstantin:
01/29/2017 at 17:18

On the forum, I browse the materials as a guest. It is so convenient for me that I do not get involved in discussions, it’s slow with time, all the more slowly I type.

… ”With sockets, everything is simple here - the power cable is connected directly to the clamps of the socket, and from it, if necessary, the following sockets are connected. This connection is called a "loopback".
WHICH IS FORBIDDEN to do in the presence of a protective PE conductor (i.e., the TN-C-S grounding system shown in your picture. The PUE directly says - in a three-to-five-wire network ONLY through junction boxes. You do not mislead people.

Healthy again)) And how, I wonder, you connect the PE in the soldering box, isn't it through the terminals?))

Mikhail, how long can we say that it is allowed to connect the sockets with a loop according to the PUE, only in this case it is necessary to take into account a number of requirements, which, by the way, are applicable for junction boxes. I will try to write a separate article about this in the near future, otherwise I often have to prove this point.

Hello.

I do wiring in a wooden house. All connections are in the shield (beam pattern). But in some places it is more convenient to connect in the luminaire when the luminaire is located approximately in the middle between the shield and the switch.
In your diagrams, the power cable from the switchboard comes to the socket box, then it is switched, and goes to the lamp.
Is it possible to apply this method somewhat differently? Lead the cable from the switchboard directly into the luminaire, lead the second cable from the luminaire to the switch, but make the switching in the luminaire (if space allows). Doesn't it seem to contradict anything?
But although I do it for myself, I have to think about those who will then serve it. How will he react to the fact that having removed the lamp, he will see not one, but two cables under it?

For YuTefan:
And what kind of lamp? Now the lamps are made so flimsy that you really don't want to get in there once again .... And what are the terminals inside the lamp? Probably flimsy too, and you have two cables there. Moreover, the lamp on the ceiling (on the ceiling?)
What word do you think those who climb there will remember you)))))
Your proposed option must have very good reasons for its application.

Connection of circuit-breakers without junction boxes ...
Why not?
Take a "deeper" socket box ... ..
There are funny moments. You come to the "object" - there is a problem in the wiring. And desoldering under the ceiling. And as luck would have it, no stairs, no chair, nothing to climb on and get to the desoldering ...)))))

“Mikhail, how long can we say that it is allowed to connect the sockets with a loop according to the PUE, only in this case it is necessary to take into account a number of requirements, which, by the way, are applicable for junction boxes. I will try to write a separate article about this in the near future, otherwise I often have to prove this point. "
I am pleased to read your PUE. Apparently they just left. Where PUE allows breaking the protective conductor. A loop (and I understand - this is such a connection where the incoming wire is planted on the same outlet terminal as the outgoing line wire) - it is impossible, period. Because there is a PE conductor. It must be inseparable. And as soon as you unplug it at the outlet at the beginning of the line, all other sockets will be without it. Why disconnect is the third thing. As an option, the socket with grounding turned out to be faulty, they put what was at hand - without grounding. Naturally, none of the "qualified electricians" will connect the PE wire. What for? It still works! I need solid proof that PE will never break. Arguments like "a qualified electrician will never allow" are not accepted. We have "qualified electricians" half of Russia. Read also about grounding and grounding of lamps. Only a separate wire - and no "loopback". It is strictly forbidden to take "ground" in the understanding of "qualified electricians" with a jumper between the N terminal and the PE terminal in the socket. The junction box allows you to perform installation strictly according to the PUE and, in addition, it is much more convenient (and in maintenance too) to assemble a circuit in a box than to sculpt some kind of gynecology. Otherwise, you come to the apartment - and take with you a very expensive hidden wiring seeker and sort it out, uprooting the sockets - where, what and how. Because they tried, but the executive scheme was not done or even without a clue of its existence. The box certainly does not paint, but you can put it in the least noticeable place.

Mikhail, PE, the conductor of the supply cable in the socket of the first socket is not connected to its terminal, but a branch is made from the main PE to each socket mechanism. Thus, disconnecting the PE conductor from the terminal of any of the sockets will not break the integrity of the PE conductor for the other.

Admin:
Explain which terminal block (specify the specific type, brand ... or what else) make the PE conductor branches for the case with the so-called looping of sockets?
The question is not as simple as it might seem. I was thinking about "nuts", but they are too big in size .... I somehow bothered with this question (looking for a coupler-coupler) and found almost nothing suitable (small and insulated ... probably screw .. etc.)

For all the time I saw only one "tricky" solution: the "cunning" installers in the socket unscrewed the screw of the PE terminal and twisted the PE wire in the form of a loop and screwed this loop into the PE terminal with this screw. Thus, both continuity and de-branching were observed ...
In all other cases, both phase and zero and protective "shove" two ends under one terminal .... Electricians do not complicate their lives and make the main power line with lengths of cable from the box (outlet) to the box (outlet), but do not pull the cable through everything boxes in one piece ... (())

In fact, it is better to connect both phase and neutral working conductors with a branch ... .. (and you don't need to look for standards here and prove something to someone ... who needs to understand)

Probably here the question is more limited by the choice of the method of mounting the trunk line (in whole or in segments), as well as a suitable connector-coupler and the habit of sorting out and doing it right always, and not how convenient and fast for the installer ....

It turns out that the terminals can also be used ... ..
they are smaller in size than the GML….

although it is still a question of what is more and what is less ...
collapsible and non-collapsible connectors are probably the question.

Vadim, also an option, but I would not recommend it for power circuits.

And how to connect a socket with a loop without a junction box?

Here is the topic just in time for me, I ran into this know-hao, but here I got more interesting information than I was shown. Thanks to this creator. Now I became interested in this connection diagram without junction boxes, but with pass-through switches.

Hello. Tell me, is there any standard stipulating the permissible distance of installation of junction boxes from the upper floor slab (ceiling)?

They installed a stretch ceiling with inspection hatches and round / rectangular lamps, the performers did not even have a question, apparently they are constantly solving such problems.

The house is wooden. Beam scheme. The lighting network is made in metal pipes in the preparation of the second floor floor. The wiring to the switches is open with a VVGng-LS cable, which is laid partly openly and covered with a hemp rope, partly behind the door casing. The switch is next to the cash. I want to apply your installation method. But switches and sockets are for open wiring. Is it possible to install a socket box as for hidden installation in it, make all the connections and install a switch or an outlet for outdoor installation on top. Or, such connections can be made directly in switches or surface-mounted sockets. Please answer.

Question: Alexey Levashov,
Proektstroygroup.

According to the requirements of PUE and SP 31-110, hidden electrical wiring in wooden frame houses should be carried out in metal pipes with localization ability. But at the same time, not a word is said in these documents about what requirements are imposed on the installation and junction boxes, to the electrical equipment used in such wiring.

There are no metal installation and junction boxes on sale for hidden installation in wooden structures. All recessed luminaires also do not have any protective metal housings that have localization ability. All offered flush-mounted sockets are made of plastic.

The question arises: why do the wiring itself in the pipes? How to connect spotlights, chandeliers, sconces, etc.?

Answer: Alexander Shalygin,
Head of ICC MIEE.

In rooms made of combustible building materials, electrical wiring, as a rule, should be carried out openly. Concealed electrical wiring in steel pipes with localization ability should only be used in rooms made of combustible building materials, where it is necessary to ensure the inaccessibility of electrical wiring, and in limited cases for architectural reasons.

Concealed installation of wiring accessories and lamps in building structures made of combustible materials is not used. For this reason, there are no such products on the market.
* * *
Based on materials from "News of Electrical Engineering".
In fact, hidden installation of sockets / switches in log houses is sometimes used. For example, with the help of Nabrevno.ru products - Czech mounting boxes Kopos made of self-extinguishing PVC + wooden decorative overlay from Nabrevno.

The switches appeared at the same moment when a person came up with the idea of ​​lighting the rooms in which he is located. Despite the huge variety of their types, designs, sizes and "bells and whistles", they perform two main tasks - turn on and off the light. This work is based on a simple principle that will be discussed in this article.

The instructions for installing lighting with your own hands are based on it - from a switch to a light bulb. The switch can control any kind of lighting and any amount of it, the main thing is to understand the principle of its operation and take into account all the technical nuances in order to correctly install the lighting in the apartment and connect everything together without resorting to the help of an electrician.

What are they?

• The classic and most common option is a conventional one-button light switch. It is designed to control one group of lighting elements - a chandelier, lamp or night light. It is installed where such control is relevant. Pros - simple installation of a one-button switch, low price. Cons - the inability to connect several independent groups of lighting fixtures to a light switch with one key. The one-button switch diagram will be presented below.

• A more advanced option is two buttons. It provides a relatively large freedom in organizing and planning the lighting system of the premises. Two groups of bulbs can already be connected here. Typically, this scheme is used to distinguish between primary and secondary lighting in living rooms and kitchens. One button turns on the main light, and the second - additional lighting above the working areas. This option is much more economical and neat than placing two one-button options side by side.

• A very rare, but still used in everyday life, version of the light bulb switch - with three buttons. It is again used to differentiate between different lighting fixtures along the wires. Found application in bedrooms and living rooms, where huge chandeliers with several levels of light bulbs are usually installed. Sometimes it is used to organize street lighting - by stretching the wires, you can turn on the light in different places from one switch. It looks very compact and neat, it has only two drawbacks: it is more expensive than previous analogs, and the keys on it are relatively thin - you can smear it, turning on the wrong light. The lamp connection diagram is very simple even with him.

• In addition to turning the lights on and off, they can also adjust the brightness of the lighting. The device of such a mechanism is more complex, and this possibility is relevant only for LEDs, where the brightness of the crystals depends on the strength of the current passing through them. Such models are called "dimmers", they are made in the form of regulators of various types. In the off state, the current does not pass through them, the lighting devices do not shine. As you gradually turn the knob, the dimmer will begin to pass more current up to the maximum. This will only work with LEDs (not even all bulbs, usually this is fine for LED strips). Avoid powering incandescent lamps and fluorescent options through the dimmer - this can lead to their damage and combustion.

• One of the options for implementing the work is to add a small lighting element to the button. It lights up in the off position, informing the person in the dark where the light switch is. A very useful thing in large or, conversely, tight spaces. However, a very popular problem faced by owners of fluorescent and LED bulbs is associated with a switch of this type - blinking when off. This problem is solved so simply that this is absolutely no reason to refuse such a convenient thing. Moreover, small bulbs are installed on absolutely all types described above, there are no restrictions.

• We conclude the classification by mentioning that the performance of models on the modern market is so diverse that they can be matched literally to any design, color and purpose. Despite the fact that they will seem completely different, the principle of their work is the same - we will talk about it further.

Principle of operation

Why is the light bulb shining? Because electricity is supplied to it. It does not shine because electricity is not supplied. This is exactly what the switch is doing - it mechanically breaks the circuit with a light bulb, along which current flows from the general network to it. To understand how he does it, you need to look inside.

We see that the white buttons that we press during everyday use are only decorative elements. They are attached to special clips in the body and set in motion the ceramic walker, which controls the electrical circuit. The operation of such a mechanism and how to connect a one-button switch will be clearly shown later in the article.

In the off state, it breaks the phase, as a result - the bulbs do not shine. The ground and zero of the lamps are, roughly speaking, common, they go bypassing the switch. The phase will have to be supplied to each button separately to differentiate the circuits.

How to connect by yourself?

All types are connected in exactly the same way, they differ only in the number of wires, which directly depends on the keys in the switch.

How to connect the light switch correctly? A simple instruction will be presented with the expectation that a power cable has already been laid under the switch, and it sticks out of the wall in the place where we will put it. Be sure to observe safety precautions when working with electricity - de-energize the entire system with a common breaker, carefully isolate all connections, and tighten the contacts securely. Let's start with how to connect a one-button switch.

• How to connect a light switch? It's easiest to connect it. This requires only three wires - ground, zero, phase. The connection of the luminaire will be carried out through a junction box, through which the ground and the working zero are directly connected, connecting to the light bulbs. The working phase - the wire that gives the electrical load, is first inserted into the junction box, and then connected to the switch. From it, the wire returns to the box and is directly connected to the light bulb. Thus, in the off state, only zero and ground will be connected to the luminaire, and the phase on the lamp will be broken at the switch contacts. The contact is connected when turned on, the phase is loaded, the lamp lights up. Below is a wiring diagram for a one-button switch.

• There are some differences in the connection of the two-button switch. How to connect a light bulb through a switch in this case? Here, a ground wire and a phase are inserted into the box, each of them is divided in two to connect to the lamps. The operating phase wire is also inserted into the switch through the box, where it is connected to each circuit breaker separately. From them, two wires are led to a box, from which they are connected to light bulbs. The light switch connection diagram is similar, only two buttons.

Here you should pay attention to the switch itself. On the reverse side, he will have three contacts. Where it is alone, the phase is connected from the network. Where there are two of them, two phases are already output to the lamps. If you follow this little hint, the wiring will be installed correctly, you will never mix up the connection and connection sides.

• For a three-rocker switch, the story is the same. Out of the box, ground and zero are tripled for each group of bulbs, and three phases come out of the switch, which are connected accordingly.

Here is a diagram for connecting a light bulb without grounding. Some networks are not provided for connecting ground, so you can completely do without it, just not running it in parallel with zero.

Installation of the structure

A little higher, we already said that special holes must be drilled in the wall - socket boxes, where a metal frame with an already powered network will be installed on special clamps.

On the sides of this frame there will be rectangular teeth, which will hold it in the wall. The mount must be firm, not wobbly in the socket or fall out.

After installing the frame, a decorative surface is placed on top of it, with which we contact every day after connecting a light switch with one key.

Conclusion

A switch is an indispensable element of any lighting scheme; without it, it simply will not function. The modern variety of mechanisms allows you to connect lamps to it in a huge number of variations, and the beautiful design will make the switch as invisible as possible and harmoniously fit into the overall interior of the room.

Connecting a light bulb to a switch can be done by hand. Be sure to use a safe method of working with electricity, check the health of the wires and the quality of the connection of the contacts before connecting to the network.

With development, mankind has invented an irreplaceable thing: electricity, without it it is hard to imagine modern life. Thanks to this, in each room, in addition to sockets, switches for light are always installed. A switch is a structure that mechanically closes / opens an electrical circuit, which allows a light bulb to turn on or off.

Division of switches into types

Before disclosing the topic of connecting the switch, we will consider what options are provided by manufacturers. Household switches are divided into several types:

With one key on / off

This type of switch is more primitive in structure. It contains a valid module with a set of contacts; fasteners made in the form of metal antennae; frame; movable power key.

The main components are usually made of metal to improve contact. Occasionally there are ceramic switch housings. Such elements are more resistant to electrical loads and withstand about 32 A. But more often the switch body is made plastic. Such raw materials are cheaper than ceramics, but the load on them should be lower (no more than 16 A).

This type of switch is selected if the lighting device is for one lamp. It is possible to distinguish a subtype in switches with one key: illuminated switches. The housing has an LED light bulb that helps you locate the switch in a completely dark room.

When are switches used? If the light sources in the room do not require connection directly to the network using a cord, then a wall switch is installed in it. They are provided for chandeliers on the ceiling or lamps on the wall

Before choosing a switch, you must consider the humidity in the room. For rooms with high humidity, it is worth choosing switches with a higher degree of protection (IP 40).

Switches with multiple keys (usually no more than three)

In general, the structure of such switches is similar to the structure of one-key switches. The main difference is that an individual key closes / opens its own individual lighting device. For large rooms, switches with a large number of keys have been developed. Examples of such switches can be studied in photographs in special literature or on the Internet.

Wall-mounted switches

Such switches are clearly visible and are used if the electrical wiring goes over the wall.

Wall mounted switches

This type of switch is installed in modern apartments where the electrical wiring is hidden in the wall. These switches blend in harmoniously with the interior and do not draw attention to themselves.

Also now the switch - the remote control - has become widespread. Modern lighting devices come in conjunction with remotes. They allow you to adjust the desired flow and shade of light.

The consoles provide functions for turning on all the lamps of the lighting device, or vice versa, creating a muted atmosphere by extinguishing some of the lamps.

How to choose the location of the switch

Before starting the installation of the switch, it is worth deciding on its location. It is necessary to weigh the pros and cons of its location. The most common location of switches is near the door. This is convenient when you can control the light throughout the room when exiting or entering. Other options are also possible. For example, switches are located at the head of the bed.

Before you start installing the switch, you need to figure out its connection diagram. The installation regulations should be taken into account: the switch must not be located closer than sixty cm from the shower stall and at least half a meter from the gas branch.

According to them, you also need to retreat from the doors about 10 cm and almost a meter from the floor. In rooms with high humidity and large temperature fluctuations, you should avoid installing switches.

Instructions for connecting an indoor switch

Before starting the installation work, you need to study the instructions for connecting the switches and prepare all the necessary equipment: a knife, pliers, a screwdriver, a voltage indicator, gloves and glasses. After the tools are prepared, you can start installation work.

The very first thing to do is to de-energize the apartment. In this case, it is necessary to de-energize the entire apartment, and not just the room in which the installation of the switch is planned.

Now it is worth using a voltage indicator and inspecting all the wiring to confirm its safety and not get a discharge current.

The second stage in the installation of the switch is the direct preparation of the place where the switch will be located. This place should be thoroughly cleaned of the paint layer, dust and dirt should be removed. They will not allow the switch to be installed properly, to level it.

If the switch is after purchase, it must first be unscrewed with a screwdriver. It is necessary to free the box from the internal components. This will facilitate the process of connecting electrical wires to the breaker NO contacts.

We proceed directly to connecting the wiring to the switch. With the help of pliers, unnecessary wires should be eliminated, leaving no more than fifteen cm. This size of wires is enough to make it convenient to mount the switch. If the wiring is larger than the specified length, it will not hide inside the breaker box.

After removing unnecessary wires, it is possible to start performing a rather important step. Thanks to the pliers, you need to strip about two cm of the wiring, removing the outer insulation.

If the gap of the cleaned wires is made larger, during the operation of the switch there is a possibility of a short circuit. For the convenience of connecting the wires to the contacts, it is better to bend them.

Direct connection of the switch

How to properly connect the switch can be learned from various literature sources. It is worth noting that inside the wiring there are wires that are different in color. Usually this is a brown wire that is responsible for the phase. And yellow - green wire, which is responsible for grounding. When connecting wires to pins, it is important not to mix them up.

It is possible to highlight the difference when installing switches with one or more keys. Rule of thumb: connect the brown wire to the L-marked disconnect switch.

The placed wires must be clamped with the screws that come with each switch. Be sure to check the reliability of the fixed wires. If the ends of the wiring are not tight enough, the contact will be interrupted and the switch will not function.

The gap of the connected wiring should be folded so that they fit in the switch box. During the arrangement of the wires, you need to leave space for the switch itself to fit. By attaching the switch body, it can be slightly fixed with screws. They do not need to be tightened to the end; first, the switch needs to be aligned.

You can align the switch using a level that was prepared in advance. After the switch is aligned, be sure to tighten the screws a little harder. The main thing is not to cut the thread on the screw head, if necessary, this will prevent its dismantling.

The final stage is the process of installing the housing and the switch button. This procedure is performed by hand, lightly pressing these parts to the places where they were at the very beginning.

If, after turning on the electricity in the apartment, the light turns on in the room using the installed switch, then the connection was successful.

Thanks to a detailed article, you can make sure that installing the switch with your own hands is quite possible. The main thing is to prepare everything and carefully follow the instructions.

Photo - instructions on how to connect the switch with your own hands

Content:

In every house or apartment, from time to time there is a need for. Among them, most often it is necessary to decide how to connect a lamp through a switch. This operation is not particularly difficult, and it is quite possible to perform it with your own hands, without involving specialists. In addition to the minimum knowledge of electrical engineering, certain rules must be followed regarding the preparatory work and the installation itself. It is recommended that even before starting the connection, think over the layout of electrical appliances and apply it to the wall. Only then can you start laying wires and installing electrical equipment.

Preparatory work

Before starting work, first of all, it is necessary to disconnect the mains voltage. To do this, it is enough to turn off the machine and check the absence of voltage with the device.

• Switch. Depending on the need, a one- or two-key model is selected. Each switch for the luminaire will be slightly different from each other, since the connection diagrams for both devices are different.
• Electric wire or cable. It is selected in accordance with the technical characteristics of the current electrical network. Special attention should be paid to the number of cores, their cross-section, material and marking.
• Junction box. At home, plastic fireproof products that do not conduct electric current, with small compact dimensions, are usually used.
• Connection terminals, electrical tape. Provided by the rules of PUE for connections and subsequent isolation of contacts.
• Fasteners. Necessary for fixing the products to be installed.
• Tester or indicator screwdriver. With their help, you can make sure that there is no voltage, since the electrical network must be completely de-energized before starting work.
• Pliers, pliers, pliers. They are used to connect conductors together.
• Impact drill or hammer drill. It will be needed when installing hidden wiring in plaster.

When a one-rocker switch is connected, three wires should be collected in the junction box. The first one is a supply wire for a lamp with a switch, with a voltage of 220 volts, connected from plugs or a machine. The second will be a two-wire wire supplied to the switch. The third wire goes directly to the lamp or luminaire. It can also be with three cores, if the luminaire body is equipped with an earthing clamp.

After all the wires have gathered in the junction box, you need to remove the insulation from them and prepare them for subsequent twisting. After that, you can proceed to the assembly of the circuit and direct connection.

Connecting the lamp and the switch

The complete assembly of the circuit is carried out as follows. The switch is connected in an open phase. At the moment it is turned off, the circuit is opened and the voltage is no longer supplied to the lamp. The neutral wire is connected directly to the luminaire through the junction box. Thus, the phase passing through the switch makes it possible to turn on and off the lamp, as well as repair and service the lamp.

The input phase wire coming from the machine is connected to the same wire going to the switch. For this, it is best to use. The other phase, returned from the switch to the junction box, is connected to the supply wire connected to the lamp. The neutral wires of the lamp and the power supply are also connected in the junction box.

After that, the connection diagram is visually checked. The wires must be properly connected together. In the finished scheme, all the twists are additionally sealed with pliers, and PVC tubes are put on top and fixed with electrical tape. The twisted wires are neatly placed in the box, after which it is closed with a lid.

The placement of the wiring in the junction box is as follows. First, it is necessary to bring a common supply cable to it, and then the rest of the wires going to. One wire of the luminaire is connected to the neutral core of the main wire, and the other is connected to the switch wire. The second wire of the switch is connected to the phase conductor of the common network. As a result, the working cores of the lamp are connected to the common wiring through a switch.

Thus, the problem is solved, how to connect the luminaire through a switch with one key. This scheme is the basis for the connection of other switches with a large number of keys.

Double circuit breaker wiring diagram

An untrained person experiences certain difficulties when connecting a two-button switch. Before installation, it is recommended to study the instructions on how to connect the switch to the luminaire in order to avoid mistakes made by beginners.

At the beginning, a three-core power cable is mounted and connected to a protective device. One of the wires is connected to the grounding system, if available. Before starting work, the entire electrical network must be de-energized. From the protective device, the conductor is launched into the junction box, after which it is fed directly to the two-button switch. The stock of wires at each connection point must be at least 10 cm. Further, wires connected to the luminaire are brought into the box.

The ends of the wires must be cleaned of insulation, and then connected to each other, taking into account the colors of the insulation of the current-carrying conductors. At the end of the installation, check the correctness of all connections. For example, at the entrance to the machine, the phase wires are located on the left side, and zero wires are located on the right. After that, the wires are connected to the contacts of the switch according to the diagram printed on the back of the device mechanism.

How to connect a lamp through a switch from an outlet

The connection of the luminaire from the socket through the switch is carried out according to the standard scheme. That is, the phase wire is interrupted, and the zero wire is connected directly to the lighting source.

The connection is performed in a specific sequence:

• The home electrical network is completely de-energized.
• A junction box is mounted, into which wires from the installed outlet, wires connected to the luminaire and the switch are inserted.
• One core from the luminaire is connected to the zero contact, and the phase goes to the switch. Another phase that comes from the junction box is also fed to the other contact of the switch, forming a break. Due to this break, the power supply of the circuit is switched on and off.

The correct choice of wire cross-section is of great importance. It all depends on the size of the load, that is, on the number of connected lamps. A mandatory requirement is a minimum cross-section of copper wire of 1 mm2. For aluminum conductors, this value will be at least 2.5 mm2. In addition, the choice of section depends on the installation method, so it is recommended to use it to get the most acceptable result.