Recently, rechargeable flashlights are structurally combined in one case with a charger. Which allows you to charge these flashlights from an alternating current of 220 volts. To do this, there are special pins on the body of the flashlight that are plugged into the socket to charge it.
The proposed device allows you to charge this type of flashlights not only from a 220 Volt AC network, but also from any DC source with a voltage of 9-18 Volts, for example, from a car battery. At the same time, it is not required to introduce any design changes in the lantern circuit. To understand the principle of operation of this device, consider a typical circuit of a rechargeable flashlight.

Its circuit consists of a "quenching" capacitor C1, which determines the charge current, a half-wave rectifier on diodes VD1 and VD2. To the output of which a GB1 rechargeable battery is connected, the voltage from which is supplied through the SA1 switch to the EL1 lamp, instead of which a bright LED can be used. Resistor R1 provides fast discharge of capacitor C1 when the flashlight is disconnected from the mains. And the HL1 LED, connected through a resistor R2, signals that the flashlight is connected to the network.
As you know, the resistance of a capacitor to alternating current depends on its frequency. The higher the frequency, the lower the resistance of the capacitor. Thus, if you apply a voltage with a frequency of about 10 kHz instead of 50 Hertz to the charging pins of the flashlight, then the resistance of the “quenching” capacitor C1 will drop so much that the voltage of 9-18 Volts will be quite enough to charge the flashlight battery.
Consider a voltage converter circuit for charging a flashlight, from a low-voltage current source, operating according to the above principle.

The circuit is based on the TDA7052 (DA1) low-frequency integrated amplifier microcircuit. Elements C2, R1 and C3, R2 create positive feedback between the input and output of the amplifier. As a result, the microcircuit goes into the mode of generating pulses with a frequency of 10 kHz at pins 5 and 8, which are opposite in phase. The amplitude value of the voltage of these pulses is slightly less than the supply voltage of the microcircuit. These pulses are fed through the resistor R3 to the charging pin contacts of the flashlight, and provide charging of its battery.
The circuit is assembled on a printed circuit board made of foil-clad fiberglass with a size of 20mm * 35mm. The conductors on the board are made by cutting the foil into sections. For this, grooves are cut on the board from the side of the foil, which separate the conductive sections on the board. (Fig. 3)
Board with soldered elements.

Board from the side of conductive sections.

The device is located in the housing of a radio socket from a wired radio network. The flashlight for charging will also be connected to the same outlet. To do this, first, the printed circuit board is connected to the socket connector block.

Then the connector block together with the board is inserted into the socket housing.

In order for the device board to fit into the socket housing, the capacitor leads are bent so that their housings are parallel to the printed circuit board.
After that, a charged flashlight is connected to the voltage converter socket, and the device itself is connected to a 9-16 Volt DC source. In this case, the LED of the charging indicator should light up on the body of the flashlight, if it is available in this model of the flashlight.

As a capacitor C1, you can use any small electrolytic capacitor, C2 and C3 - K10-7v or similar ceramic. Resistors R1, R2, R3 of any type, for example MLT or C2-23, indicated in the power diagram.
Setting up the device consists in setting the flashlight charging current depending on the battery used in it.
Changing the charging current is made by selecting the ratings of the capacitors C2 and C3, and the resistors R1 and R2. In this case, it is necessary to comply with the condition that the capacitances of the capacitor C2 and C3 are equal. And also the equality of resistance R1 and R2. A more accurate adjustment of the charging current is made by selecting the value of the resistor R3. At the time of adjustment, instead of R3, you can install a trimmer resistor with a resistance of 100 ohms. The maximum charging current, with the DA1 microcircuit indicated on the diagram, can reach up to 0.08 Amperes.

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An electric flashlight refers, as it were, to an additional auxiliary tool for carrying out any work in the presence of poor lighting or no lighting at all. Each of us chooses the type of flashlight at our discretion:

• Head Torch;
• pocket flashlight;
• hand-held flashlight

Simple flashlight circuit

The electrical diagram of a simple flashlight \ Fig. 1 \ consists of:

• battery cells;
• light bulbs;
• key \ switch \.

The scheme in its execution is simple and does not require explanations in this regard. The reasons for the malfunction of the flashlight with this scheme can be:

• oxidation of contact connections with batteries;
• oxidation of the contacts of the bulb holder;
• oxidation of the contacts of the bulb itself;
• malfunction of the key \ light switch \;
• malfunction of the light bulb itself \ burned out light bulb \;
• lack of contact connection with the wire;
• lack of battery power.

Other reasons for the malfunction may be any mechanical damage to the body of the flashlight.

Diagram of a rechargeable LED flashlight

headlamp with LED BL - 050 - 7C

The BL - 050 - 7C flashlight comes on sale with a built-in charger. When such a flashlight is connected to an external AC voltage source, the battery is recharged.

Rechargeable batteries, or rather electrochemical accumulators, - the principle of charging such cells is based on the use of reversible electrochemical systems. Substances formed during the discharge of the battery, under the influence of an electric current, are able to restore their original state. That is, we recharged the flashlight and we can continue to use it. Such electrochemical batteries or individual cells can consist of a certain amount, depending on the voltage consumed:

• the number of bulbs;
• type of bulbs.

The number, the set of such individual elements of the flashlight, is a battery.

The electric circuit of the flashlight \ Fig. 2 \ can be considered both consisting of a simple incandescent light bulb and a certain number of LED bulbs. For any flashlight circuit, what exactly is important? - It is important that the energy consumed by the light bulbs in the electrical circuit corresponds to the output voltage of the power source \ battery, consisting of individual elements \.

We read the connection diagram:

Resistor R1 with a resistance of 510 kOhm and a rated power of 0.25 W in the electrical circuit is connected in parallel, due to this large resistance, the voltage in the further section of the electrical circuit is significantly lost, or rather, part of the electrical energy is converted into thermal energy.

With a resistor R2 \ with a resistance of 300 ohms and a rated power value of 1 W \, the current is supplied to the VD2 LED. This LED serves as an indicator light to indicate the connection of the flashlight charger to an external AC voltage source.

The current is supplied to the anode of the diode VD1 from the capacitor C1. The capacitor in the electrical circuit is a smoothing filter, part of the electrical energy is lost with a positive half-cycle of the sinusoidal voltage, since during this half-cycle the capacitor is charged.

With a negative half-cycle, the capacitor is discharged and the current flows to the anode of the cathode VD1. An external voltage drop for a given electrical circuit occurs when there are two resistors and a light bulb in the electrical circuit. Also, it can be taken into account that when the current passes from the anode to the cathode - in the VD1 diode - there is also its own potential barrier. That is, it is also common for a diode to undergo heating to some extent, at which an external voltage drop occurs.

On the GB1 battery, consisting of three cells, a current of two potentials \ + - \ is supplied from the charger \ when the flashlight is connected to an external source of alternating voltage \. In the battery, the electrochemical composition of the battery is restored to its original state.

The following circuit \ Fig. 3 \ which is found in LED flashlights, consists of the following electronic elements:

• two resistors \ R1; R2 \;
• diode bridge consisting of four diodes;
• capacitor;
• diode;
• LED;
• key;
• batteries;
• light bulbs.

For a given circuit, the external voltage drop occurs due to all the constituent elements of the electronics - connected in this circuit. One diagonal of the diode bridge of the bridge circuit is connected to an external source of alternating voltage, the other diagonal of the diode bridge is connected to the load - consisting of a certain number of light-emitting diodes.

All detailed descriptions on replacing electronic elements during the repair of a flashlight, as well as diagnostics of these elements - you can find on this site, which contains similar topics in which repair of household appliances is seen.

How to repair an LED flashlight

For my work, I sometimes have to use a headlamp. Approximately six months after the purchase, the flashlight's rechargeable battery stopped charging after it was turned on for recharging via the power cord.

When establishing the cause of the headlamp breakdown, the repair was accompanied by photographs in order to present this topic in an illustrative example.

The cause of the malfunction was not clear at the beginning, since when the flashlight was switched on for recharging, the signal light came on and the flashlight itself, when the switch button was pressed, emitted a weak light. So what could be the reason for such a malfunction? Is the battery malfunctioning or some other reason?

It was necessary to open the body of the flashlight to inspect it. On the photographs \ photo No. 1 \ with the tip of a screwdriver, the places of fastening \ connection \ case are indicated.

If the body of the flashlight cannot be opened, you need to carefully inspect to see if all the screws have been removed.

Photo # 2 shows a buck converter in both voltage and current.

In the circuit, you should not look for the cause of the malfunction, since when connected to an external source - the signal light is on \ photo No. 2 red LED light \. We check further connections.

In front of us on the photograph \\ photo No. 3 \, the light switch of an LED flashlight is shown. The contacts of the push-button post of the switch are a double light switch device, where for this example light up:

• six LED lamps,
• twelve LED bulbs

flashlight. Two contacts of the switch, as we can see, are short-circuited and a common wire is soldered to these contacts. Two wires are soldered to the next two contacts of the switch - separately, from which the current flows to the lighting:

• six lamps;
• twelve lamps.

The contacts of the light switch \ when switching \ it is enough to check with a probe as shown in photo №4. We touch the common contact \ two short-circuited contacts \ with a finger and alternately touch the other two contacts with a probe.

If the switch is working properly, the LED lamp of the probe lights up \ photo # 4 \. The light switch is serviceable, we carry out further diagnostics.

The power cord can also be checked here with a probe \ photo # 5 \. To do this, with your finger, you need to short-circuit the pins of the plug and alternately connect the probe to the first and second contacts of the cable connector. If the probe light comes on, there is no break in the power cord.

The power cord for recharging the battery is working properly, we carry out further diagnostics. You should also check the flashlight battery.

The enlarged image of the battery \ photo # 6 \ shows that a constant voltage of 4 volts is supplied to recharge it. The current strength of this voltage is 0.9 ampere / hour. We check the battery.

The multimeter in this example is set to a DC voltage measurement range of 2 to 20 Volts so that the measured voltage matches the specified range.

As we can see, the display of the device shows the constant voltage of the battery - 4.3 Volts. In fact, this indicator should take on a greater value - that is, there is insufficient voltage to power LED lamps. LED lamps take into account potential barrier for each such lamp - as we know from electrical engineering. Consequently, the battery does not receive the required voltage when recharging.

And here is the whole reason for the malfunction \ photo # 8 \. This cause of the malfunction was not immediately established - in the rupture of the contact connection of the wire with the battery.

What can be noted here:

The wires in this scheme are unreliable for soldering, since the thin wire cross-section does not allow them to be securely fastened at the soldering point.

But even this cause of the breakdown is removable, the wiring was replaced with a more reliable section and the LED flashlight is currently operational, it works flawlessly.

I consider the presented topic unfinished, they will be given in examples for you - repairs of other types of flashlights.

That's all for now.

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I would call it "Notes of a Shitty Electrician"! The author simply does not understand how the circuit works, its elements, he confuses the concepts. Using the example of the operation of the circuit in Fig. 2: R1 serves to discharge capacitor C1 after disconnecting the flashlight from the mains for safety reasons. There is no "loss" of voltage "in the further section", let the Author connect a voltmeter and look at it to make sure of this. Resistor R2 serves as a current limiter. The VD2 LED serves not only as an indicator, but also supplies a positive potential to the + battery.
Capacitor C1 in this circuit is a quenching (and not a smoothing filter), and it is on it that the excess of the alternating voltage is extinguished.
About the potential barrier also heaped up this - it's ridiculous to read. And the current "current of two potentials" ?! According to classical physics, current flows from positive to negative potential, and electrons move in reverse.
Did the author go to school?
And he has this - everywhere. Sad. But someone takes his "revelations" at face value.

Hello povaga! I stopped charging the "Oblic 2077" flashlight on one LED. I can’t find the schemes, but it’s about the same as in figure # 3. Difference: there is no capacitor C2, diode VD5, two resistors and a three-pin board are soldered to the SA1 switch. I measured the voltage after the bridge - 2 volts, the battery is 4 volts, how can it be charged? Please help with the operation diagram and electrical circuit. Thanks in advance, Regards, Doldin.

There is no such abundance of shapes, sizes, colors, perhaps, in any other group of products. There are at least five of them at home, but I bought another one. And not at all out of curiosity, I looked at it and my imagination drew a picture of how in the dark I turn on the side panel, attach it with the end part with a magnet to a metal garage door, and open the locks in the light, with my hands not busy. Service - "five stars"! It was only proposed to buy a lantern in a non-working condition.

STE-15628-6LED Flashlight Specifications

• 6 LEDs (3 in reflector + 3 in side panel)
• 2 operating modes
• built-in memory
• magnet for fastening
• dimensions: 11x5x5 cm

Outwardly, an absolutely serviceable and attractive product did not create a luminous flux. Well, is it possible that such a wonderful thing was absolutely useless for anything? This model was in a single copy, but the electronics lover in me "broadcast" that everything is surmountable.

The wire came off when the case was opened, but the plastic was already scorched and suggested that the electronic components of the charger circuit were burnt, and the battery may be quite serviceable.

And I started checking with it. The voltmeter showed the voltage at the terminals equal to one volt. Having already had some experience of dealing with such batteries, he began by opening the upper safety bar on it, removing the rubber caps, refilling each "jar" with one cube of distilled water and putting it on charge. Charging voltage 12 V, current 50 mA.

Charging in high voltage mode (instead of the standard 4.7 V) lasted two hours, more than 4 volts were available.

Since the battery is serviceable, then it needs a charger assembled according to a more decent scheme and on more reliable electronic components than from a Chinese manufacturer, in which the input resistor "burned out", one of the two 1N4007 diodes of the rectifier was broken and smoked when turned on The charger is a resistor for the LED. First of all, you need a reliable capacitor of at least 400 volts, a diode bridge and a suitable zener diode at the output.

Lantern memory circuit

The compiled circuit showed its performance, a capacitor with a capacity of 1 μF and 400 V was found by MBGO (it is much more reliable and fits well into the intended case), the diode bridge is assembled from 4 pieces of 1N4007 diodes, the zener diode took the first imported one for testing (the stabilization voltage was determined by the prefix to multimeter, but its name could not be read).

Further, the circuit was assembled by soldering and used to produce a normal charge cycle of a previously discharged battery (milliammeter with a shunt, so in reality a complete deflection of the arrow occurs at a current of 50 mA). The zener diode is already applied with a stabilization voltage of 5 V.

Printed circuit board for the final assembly of the charger with dimensions for the cell phone charging case. There is no better case here.

View of a really assembled, workable board. The capacitor body is glued to the board with “master” glue. But I was too lazy to poison a handkerchief, I blame, I accidentally found myself at hand a used one of practically the right size and this circumstance decided everything.

But I was not too lazy to replace the information sticker on the charging case. With a fully charged battery, in the dark, the side panel quite decently illuminates a room measuring 10 square meters. meters, and the light from the headlamp reflector makes objects clearly visible at a distance of up to 10 meters.

In the future, I propose to choose a more reliable and more reliable lamp for the flashlight. Posted by Babay from Barnaula.

In the life of every person there are times when lighting is needed, but there is no electricity. It can be a banal power outage, and the need to repair the wiring in the house, and possibly a forest trip or something like that.

And, of course, everyone knows that in this case, only an electric flashlight will help out - a compact and at the same time functional device. Now on the electrical engineering market there are many different types of this product. These are ordinary lamps with incandescent lamps, and LED, with rechargeable batteries and batteries. And there are a great many firms producing these devices - "Dick", "Lux", "Cosmos", etc.

But what is the principle of its work, not many people think. And meanwhile, knowing the device and circuitry of an electric flashlight, you can, if necessary, repair it or even assemble it with your own hands. Let's try to figure it out in this issue.

The simplest lanterns

Since flashlights are different, it makes sense to start with the simplest - with a battery and an incandescent lamp, and also consider its possible malfunctions. The scheme of such a device is elementary.

In fact, there is nothing in it except a battery, a power button and a light bulb. And therefore there are no special problems with him. Here are some possible minor annoyances that could lead to the failure of such a flashlight:

• Oxidation of any of the contacts. These can be contacts of a switch, a light bulb, or a battery. You just need to clean these circuit elements, and the device will work again.
• Burnout of an incandescent lamp - everything is simple here, replacing the light element will solve this problem.
• Full discharge of batteries - replacement of batteries with new ones (or charging, if they are rechargeable).
• Loss of contact or broken wire. If the flashlight is no longer new, then it makes sense to change all the wires. This is not at all difficult to do.

LED flashlight

This type of lantern has a more powerful luminous flux and at the same time consumes very little energy, which means that the batteries in it will last longer. It's all about the design of the light elements - there is no filament in LEDs, they do not consume energy for heating, in view of this, the efficiency of such devices is 80-85% higher. The role of additional equipment in the form of a converter with the participation of a transistor, a resistor and a high-frequency transformer is also great.

If the flashlight battery is built-in, then a charger is included with it.

The circuit of such a flashlight consists of one or more LEDs, a voltage converter, a switch and a battery. In earlier flashlight models, the amount of energy consumed by LEDs had to match that of the source.

Now this problem has been solved by using a voltage converter (also called a multiplier). Actually, it is he who is the main part, which contains the electrical circuit of the flashlight.

If you want to make such a device with your own hands, there will be no particular difficulties. Transistor, resistor and diodes are not a problem. The hardest part will be winding a high frequency transformer on a ferrite ring called a blocking generator.

But this can also be dealt with by taking a similar ring from a faulty electronic ballast of an energy-saving lamp. Although, of course, if you don't want to mess around or don't have time, then you can find highly efficient converters on sale, such as the 8115. With their help, using a transistor and a resistor, it became possible to manufacture an LED flashlight on one battery.

The very same circuit of the LED flashlight is similar to the simplest device, and you should not dwell on it, since even a child is able to assemble it.

By the way, when using a voltage converter in the circuit on an old, simplest flashlight, powered by a 4.5 volt square battery, which you cannot buy now, you can safely put a 1.5 volt battery, that is, the usual "finger" or "little finger" battery. There will be no loss in the luminous flux. The main task in this case is to have at least the slightest idea of ​​radio engineering, literally at the level of knowledge of what a transistor is, and also to be able to hold a soldering iron in your hands.

Refinement of Chinese lanterns

Sometimes it happens that a purchased (seemingly quite high-quality) flashlight with a battery completely fails. And it is not at all necessary that the buyer is to blame for improper operation, although this also occurs. More often it is a mistake when assembling a Chinese flashlight in pursuit of quantity at the expense of quality.

Of course, in this case, you will have to redo it, somehow modernize it, because the money has been spent. Now you need to understand how to do this and whether it is possible to compete with a Chinese manufacturer and repair such a device yourself.

Considering the most common option, in which when the device is turned on to the network, the charging indicator lights up, but the flashlight does not charge and does not work, you can notice this.

A common mistake of the manufacturer is that the charge indicator (LED) is included in the circuit in parallel with the battery, which cannot be allowed. At the same time, the buyer turns on the flashlight, and seeing that it does not burn, again supplies power to the charge. As a result, all LEDs burn out at once.

The fact is that not all manufacturers indicate that it is impossible to charge such devices with the LEDs on, since it will be impossible to repair them, all that remains is to replace them.

So, the task of modernization is to connect the charge indicator in series with the battery.

As you can see from the diagram, this problem is quite solvable.

But if the Chinese put a 0118 resistor in their product, then the LEDs will have to be changed constantly, since the current supplied to them will be very high, and no matter what light elements are installed, they will not withstand the load.

LED headlamp

In recent years, such a light device has become quite widespread. Indeed, it is very convenient when the hands are free, and the beam of light hits where the person is looking, this is precisely the main advantage of the headlamp. Previously, only miners could boast of this, and even then, to wear it, they needed a helmet, on which the lantern, in fact, was attached.

Now the fastening of such a device is convenient, it can be worn under any circumstances, and a rather voluminous and heavy battery does not hang on the belt, which, moreover, must also be charged once a day. The modern one is much smaller and lighter, moreover, it has very low energy consumption.

So what exactly is such a lantern? And the principle of its operation is not at all different from the LED. Execution options are the same - rechargeable or with removable batteries. The number of LEDs varies from 3 to 24 depending on the characteristics of the battery and inverter.

In addition, such lights usually have 4 glow modes, and not one. It is weak, medium, strong and signaling - when the LEDs blink at short intervals.

The modes of the LED headlamp are controlled by the microcontroller. Moreover, if it is available, even a stroboscope mode is possible. In addition, this does not harm the LEDs at all, unlike incandescent lamps, since their service life does not depend on the number of on-off cycles due to the absence of an incandescent filament.

So which lantern should you choose?

Of course, flashlights can be different in terms of voltage consumption (from 1.5 to 12 V), and with different switches (touch or mechanical), with the presence of a sound notification of the battery discharge. It can be the original or its analogues. And it is not always possible to determine what kind of device is in front of your eyes. After all, until it fails and its repair begins, it is impossible to see what kind of microcircuit or transistor is in it. Probably, it is better to choose the one that you like, and to solve possible problems as soon as they arrive.

Hello Muska readers.
I decided to tell you my little story about the revision of a Chinese headlamp with a portable power compartment for 1-2 lithium 18650 batteries.
In principle, this topic has already been discussed in some posts and reviews of these boards have been repeatedly, so there will not be a lot of background information, but it is possible that there will be useful information here as well.
Who cares, please under cut
So.
I have in use a widespread cheap Chinese headlamp with an external battery pack located on the back of the head. (headlights may vary, but many have identical compartments)

An obvious drawback of this design, it is a need to take out the battery from the compartment if you need to charge it, and you also need to have a charger for the 18650 lithium battery on hand.
Since this flashlight is registered in the glove compartment of the car, there is no mobile charging for it, and if you need to charge it, you need to remove the battery and carry it home for the charging process.

Once I bought myself a lot of 10 pieces. MP1405 controller boards


Brief Specifications:

Model: MP1405
Input voltage - 5V
End-of-charge voltage: 4.2V ± 1%
Charging current: 1000mA
Battery discharge control voltage: 2.5V
Overload protection threshold: 3A
Weight: 7.30g

The difference between this motherboard and the cheaper motherboards that have been reviewed many times, such as:
The fact that the board controls not only the charge, but also knows how to monitor the discharge of the battery. And this is just as impossible by the way when using unprotected lithium battery cans in a device that is not equipped with a driver with a discharge control function.
Since looking at the board with the "driver" of the flashlight, it was clear that there was no smell not only of the discharge level controller, but also of the driver itself with at least some kind of stabilization.


All the brains of the flashlight, this is a mode selection chip on the CX2812 chip and an A1SHB transistor (P-Channel 1.25-W, 2.5-V MOSFET)
Therefore, it was decided to introduce a board with control of both the charge and discharge of the battery.

Actually, this is not difficult to do. First I pulled the board out of the flashlight. Connected the output of the controller board to the power input of the lamp driver board and to the terminals B + and B- soldered the terminals of the battery compartment.
This is what the pre-build inclusion check looked like:


Intermodular connections were made with MGTF wire.

For one thing, in such a dissected form, I measured the currents flowing into the battery during the charging process and during the power supply of the flashlight to max. brightness (Installed cree Q5 diode)

Measurement of the charge current going into the battery

(The ammeter readings are not entirely accurate, because when measuring, I found out that the indicator of a dead battery in the tester is on, so the readings can float, but usually the error is not very large, the order of the numbers can be understood)

Measuring the current consumption of the flashlight during operation at max. brightness

The measurements showed quite satisfactory figures. The charge current, as promised by the specification of the board, is 1A. I did not test the cut-off voltage (there was no time to wait for the battery to be completely discharged), but I think the board should work out the algorithm of its work correctly.

Then the process of pushing both boards into the battery compartment went, cutting out a neat hole for the microUSB connector and organizing the indication of the charging process.
Initially, I was sure that there was a lot of space in the compartment and I would place the board without problems, but with a more complete analysis of the situation and approximate fittings, I realized that everything was not so simple.
I had to move the flashlight driver board sideways so that the charging board lay next to it.
The final of these manipulations is as follows:




the controller board is tightly inserted and the hole cut out for microUSB was additionally fixed with “liquid rubber” (I don’t know what the tubes for glue guns are called), and in addition both boards are clamped with an upper plastic plate. In general, everything is holding up very well.

I decided to organize the display question as follows:
The green indicator diode, which signals the end of the charging process, I decided to unsolder and attach next to the LED soldered on the flashlight controller board (a duplicate light that burns on the back of the head when the flashlight is turned on)
Thus at the end of charging the flashlight behind the white diffuser will illuminate green.
Like this:

And I decided not to touch the indicator of the charging process and left it in its place. It can be seen in the gap between the case and the microUSB port.
this is how it looks:


I think this indicator is quite enough.
That's basically it.
Although no,

here are some more photos of the general view of the flashlight and the charging port close-up:

Now that's all for sure. According to this scheme, I also modified a similar flashlight only with a compartment for 2 parallel 18650 batteries and on an XML-T6 crystal, but this does not change the essence of the matter.

Now this device can be safely charged from any USB port, which is now even in cars or any telephone charging that has a microUSB end.

Thank you all for your attention. I will be happy to answer your questions. If you find something to cling to, do not hesitate, poke your nose.
By tradition, my little animal, not a kote.