The mouse is a device that helps the user in the computer. With its breakdown, many users do not know as far as possible, from the keyboard, switch to the desired system icons. This situation leads to the completion of the session and search for service centers for repair electronic technologyor to the acquisition of a new device. If you have such qualities as preferably, attentiveness, the ability to work with a tester and a soldering iron, then you are without problems, relying on the information provided, you can quickly determine the reason for the failure of the device and even fix it. Consider repairing a wireless mouse with your own hands.
Causes of breakage.
Since the mouse refers to reliable technique, so in many cases the breakdown will be insignificant. It can happen due to:
1. Poor contact between the power element and the control board.
2. The failure of one of the electronic components.
3. Course breakdowns USB computer.
Detection of causes of malfunction and methods to eliminate it.
To start the study of the broken device, you must turn it off from the power, pull the module from the USB computer wireless communication and dismantle the battery. To get to the control board in most models, it is enough to unscrew the fastener located under the power element and using a flat screwdriver to disconnect the upper part of the housing from the latch.
Visually or using a multimeter in the check position semiconductor devices Explore the stigma of the plus and minus, connecting wires and soldering places for oxides, mechanical damage. Due to strong vibrations, mechanical stresses in places connecting elements with road tracks can occur microcracks.
To identify them, it is necessary to look very carefully and shake the fastenings of the wires, electronic components of the board. When determining suspicious or defective sections, they should be highly sued.
If the measures described above did not provide the restoration of the device, check its resistance to power stamps. It must be in the range of 400 - 600 ohms. If an ohmmeter shows zero, then there is a short circuit in the electronic circuit if the unit is a break. In these situations it is necessary to check the electronic elements. Detected charred, swollen devices are subject to replacement.
To check the help of photodiodes, connect to its positive input of the probe from the port "V +", and to the negative - probe from the port of "COM". In this case, the multimeter is switched into diodes check mode. Turn on the phone chamber and direct its lens on the photodiode. A good element will glow in displays.
If after all listed events, the mouse did not earn, check the health of the wireless module with the USB plug. Property from the port "COM" concern the track 2, and by another dipstick - tracks 1. Indications should be 600 - 800 ohms.
For check USB porta computer is sufficient to connect a working device, such as a keyboard or memory storage. If after connecting software Reacts, it means that the port is in working condition.
In other cases, when the breakdown could not be eliminated, the replacement of the chip is required.
Computer mouse - Probably everyone knows what it is. This is a manipulator or coordinate input device to control the cursor and returning different commands to the computer. Over time, this device appears various malfunctions: damage to the stranded wire, often jams the sensor, sometimes scrolls the wheels (scrolling) of the mouse, the mouse buttons do not work, etc.
Let's look at the repair with your own hands the most popular computer manipulator - mice!
Mouse is technically pretty simple deviceTherefore, it is fairly easy to repair with your own hands. If you know how to contact the soldering iron at least a little, it will allow you to repair almost any mouse breakage. However, even if you do not know with a soldering iron, you can fix some typical mouse damage if there is a minimum set of tools:
- crosshead screwdriver,
- pliers,
- scissors,
- scotch.
Computer mice main faults
Now there are several types of computer mice, which differ in the principle of operation (roller, optical or laser), the number of buttons (from 3 and above), as well as the connection type (PS / 2, USB or wireless (with a USB adapter)). However, the most common is optical with USB or PS / 2 connections.
Such mice are relatively cheap (malletent more than roller, but significantly cheaper than laser) and at the same time have a sufficiently high accuracy, which is enough for most users.
| NP.P. |
Description of the problem |
Possible malfunction |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Mouse does not respond at all to the connection | Breaking or wire oven; violation of the integrity of the printed circuit board; Controller failure |
| 2 | Ranchlite sensor. The cursor jumps or moves jerks | Clogging of the optical sensor; Fault LED |
| 3 | Kollyoviko scroll does not work or when scrolling the area of \u200b\u200bthe scrolling moves jerks | Loosening the scrolling mechanism; Drying lubricant inside the mechanism; Defects encoder (Scroll sensor) |
| 4 | Specific button placing or makes double pressing | Loosening; failure of the mechanism of the button; Problem with settings or mouse driver |
| 5 | Specific mouse button does not work | The failure of the mechanism of the button |
Disassembly and mouse device
We disassemble the mouse usually, with a small cruciform turning. To do this, turn over the mouse up the bottom, we find and unscrew one or more screws that fasten it. If the screws are not visible, then they, most often, hide under stickers or footrests:
Usually the screws hold the mouse only in the rear. The front part (where the buttons) are most often fixed at the expense of special grooves. To remove the upper cover from these grooves, it needs to be slightly lifted for the released rear part And slowly pull on yourself. You can push it a little more on it, but the main thing is that not very much, otherwise you will break! The grooves on the top cover of the mouse and the pins, which held them:
When you remove the top cover, there will be a small printed circuit board under it, which is usually fixed only on small plastic pins (although it can be fastened to the housing). The wires will be soldered (if the mouse is wired), buttons, scroll mechanism, as well as a complex from the backlight LED and a sensitive optical sensor:
To fully disassemble the mouse, we need to pull out of it pCB And disconnect the scroll wheel (it is easily pulled out of the encoder grooves).
Check and repair wire
Most often, when connecting to a computer, the mouse either does not work at all, or twitches or disappears the movement of the cursor, if it is larched somewhere or breaks one of the wiring (if, of course, the wire mouse).
In a typical optical mouse, it is usually available from 4 to 6 wiring of different colors. The colors and the number of wiring depend on the specific manufacturer, however, there is a standard:
Color Mouse Wiring Color Scheme
Food - Red (Other options: Golden, Orange, Blue, White).
Taking data - White (Other options: blue, orange, yellow, green).
Data transfer - Green (Other options: Golden blue, yellow, red, blue).
Land - Black (Other options: Golden-green, green, white, blue).
You can unambiguously judge about the correct splitting, while looking at the letter marking of the wiring in the place where they are soldered to the printed circuit board (unless, of course, they are not divorced from the board). The opening and stirring of wiring most often happens in the location of the wires on the outlet of the mouse housing. It is indirectly to check the presence of a cliff, pulling out the wire and trying it to bend in dubious places (in the place of the cliff it will be easier). However, in order to judge certainly, you will have to remove the insulation, carefully cutting it with the blade.
Having found a place where the wiring is interrupted, you need to restore their integrity by soldering or twist. I personally prefer twist 🙂 I will give a photo of the finished twist, as it should look like:
After the splicing of the wires, it takes them from each other with a tape or scotch. You can try. So as not to burn the port, connect or disable the mouse when the computer is turned off! To exclude all doubts with a breakup, try moving all the contacts of the USB plug (or PS / 2) using a multimeter. After repair, the mouse should earn.
Optical mouse sensor does not work
Often the situation also happens when we cannot accurately hover the cursor to a certain point. He is constantly trembling and moved by himself. This situation explicitly indicates clogging of the optical group of the mouse. The clogging is most often external. In the compartment, where the light of the diode is reflected from the table, dust or hair falls.
To get rid of such clogging, you do not even need to disassemble the mouse. It is enough to flip it and blow it. In the extreme, take advantage of a small tassel to remove the sticking garbage.
If, after such manipulations, the mouse cursor is trembling, then most likely that either the sensor clogged inside, or was completely out of action.
In any case, you can try to disassemble the mouse and clean the sensor with a toothpick with a wrapped with a cotton with alcohol:
Optical sensor computer mouse
Before cleaning the sensor, you can also try to blow it in order to blow the fine dust that can stick after wetting. After that, gently without pressure, we enter the toothpick by rotational movements into the sensor hole. Having made a couple of flares and without stopping rotating, pull out the toothpick, wait for the drying of the alcohol and try to connect the mouse.
If, after all attempts to clean the sensor, the sensor does not work normally, then if there is a different mouse, soldering iron and direct hands, you can fall out the non-working chip and replace it with a sensor from another mouse.
Scrolls Koloysiko Myshka
It happens that the mouse works fine, but when you try to use it with a wheel, the page that we scroll, begins to jump up, then down, or does not want to rush at all. Alas, the outlet of the wheel of the mouse is a fairly frequent breakdown and it was she who prompted me to write this article. First you need to carefully consider how uniformly the wheel is spinning in the groove. The groove itself and the wheels axis have a hexagonal cross section, but sometimes one or more sides of this hexagon can be deformed, as a result of which the axis slippage will be observed in a problem location.
If you have such a problem, it is solved by sealing the edge of the axis of the wheel of a scotch tape or a tape in small quantities. If, with the movement of the wheel, everything is fine, the breakage occurred inside the encoder (scrolling sensor). From long use, he could break through and should be slightly compressed:
Click the locks of the mouse scroll mechanism
To do this, take small pliers and take turns. Press them four metal brackets that the encoder is attached to the plastic details of the scrolling mechanism. Here the main thing is not to overdo it and do not break the fragile plastic, but at the same time sucking more. Try to connect the mouse and check whether the negative effect has decreased when scrolling after each tap. Alas, in my case it was not possible to get rid of the jerks. Yes, the frequency and scatter in the jumps of the page decreased, but the jumps themselves did not completely disappear. Then I decided to approach the issue of the seal radically and truly in Russian 🙂 cut out from old packaging From the batteries a piece of thin but dense polyethylene and stuck inside the mechanism:
Inserted inside the mouse scrolling mechanism
What is the most interesting, this manipulation helped! I only have to trim the excess strip length and collect mouse 🙂
There are some more options:
- disassemble and clean the mechanism;
- replace the mechanism from another mouse (with another malfunction).
Do not work mouse buttons
Any button has its own routes. Typically disappears from the left mouse button. The mouse has several buttons: left, right and under the wheel. They are all the same. The non-working button is practically not repaired, but it can be replaced from another mouse.
View from the bottom on the Savaged Mouse Button Microswitch
The microswitch has three "legs", the first of which is free, and the other remains - contacts that you want to solder. Sometimes the button still works, but does not work at each press. Such a symptom can be alarmed that from frequent use erased the edges of the push button, which presses a microswitch or bad contact inside the contact plate switch.
We disassemble the mouse and carefully study the problem button and its pusher. If you see a small dent, then the problem may be in it. It is enough to pour the flushed place of the epoxy resin or molten plastic. At the same time, while the switch was disassembled, you can clean the contact group.
The last problem with which you may encounter - the mouse button makes a double click when you click on it - the so-called stray of contacts. You can solve this case with a microswitch or ... programmatically!
In any case, before you take for a soldering iron, check the mouse settings in the Windows Control Panel:
Standard properties of the mouse, what they should be
According to the standard of dual-click speed, the center must be located in the center, and the layer of the mouse buttons is disabled. Try to set such parameters and check whether the problem was solved. If not, another radical programmatic method of "treatment" double click - delete the mouse driver.
Mice - Some of the most active computer devices used. Therefore, it is not surprising that they often fail. However, due to the simplicity of their device, it can fix the mouse in most cases each! To do this, it is not necessary to be able to solder or understand the electronics.
Computer mouse - Probably everyone knows what it is. This is a manipulator or coordinate input device to control the cursor and returning different commands to the computer. Over time, this device appears various malfunctions: damage to the stranded wire, often jams the sensor, sometimes scrolls the wheels (scrolling) of the mouse, the mouse buttons do not work, etc.
Let's look at the repair with your own hands the most popular computer manipulator - mice!
Mouse is technically pretty simple, so it is quite easy to repair with your own hands. If you know how to contact the soldering iron at least a little, it will allow you to repair almost any mouse breakage. However, even if you do not know with a soldering iron, you can fix some typical mouse damage if there is a minimum set of tools:
Crosshead screwdriver
Pliers
Scissors
Computer mice main faults
Now there are several types of computer mice, which differ in the principle of operation (roller, optical or laser), the number of buttons (from 3 and above), as well as the connection type (PS / 2, USB or wireless (with a USB adapter)). However, the most common is optical with USB or PS / 2 connections.
Such mice are relatively cheap (malletent more than roller, but significantly cheaper than laser) and at the same time have a sufficiently high accuracy, which is enough for most users.
| NP.P. |
Description of the problem |
Possible malfunction |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Mouse does not respond at all to the connection | Breaking or wire oven; violation of the integrity of the printed circuit board; Controller failure |
| 2 | Ranchlite sensor. The cursor jumps or moves jerks | Clogging of the optical sensor; Fault LED |
| 3 | Kollyoviko scroll does not work or when scrolling the area of \u200b\u200bthe scrolling moves jerks | Loosening the scrolling mechanism; Drying lubricant inside the mechanism; Defects encoder (Scroll sensor) |
| 4 | Specific button placing or makes double pressing | Loosening; failure of the mechanism of the button; Problem with settings or mouse driver |
| 5 | Specific mouse button does not work | The failure of the mechanism of the button |
Disassembly and mouse device
We disassemble the mouse usually, with a small cruciform turning. To do this, turn over the mouse up the bottom, we find and unscrew one or more screws that fasten it. If the screws are not visible, then they, most often, hide under stickers or footrests:
Usually the screws hold the mouse only in the rear. The front part (where the buttons) are most often fixed at the expense of special grooves. To remove the upper cover from these grooves, it needs to be slightly lifted for the released back and slowly pull on yourself. You can push it a little more on it, but the main thing is that not very much, otherwise you will break! The grooves on the top cover of the mouse and the pins, which held them:
When you remove the top cover, there will be a small printed circuit board under it, which is usually fixed only on small plastic pins (although it can be fastened to the housing). The wires will be soldered (if the mouse is wired), buttons, scroll mechanism, as well as a complex from the backlight LED and a sensitive optical sensor:
To fully disassemble the mouse, we need to pull the circuit board out of it and disconnect the scroll wheel (it is easily pulled out of the encoder grooves).
Check and repair wire
Most often, when connecting to a computer, the mouse either does not work at all, or twitches or disappears the movement of the cursor, if it is larched somewhere or breaks one of the wiring (if, of course, the wire mouse).
In a typical optical mouse, it is usually available from 4 to 6 wiring of different colors. The colors and the number of wiring depend on the specific manufacturer, however, there is a standard:
Color Mouse Wiring Color Scheme
Food - Red (Other options: Golden, Orange, Blue, White).
Taking data - White (Other options: blue, orange, yellow, green).
Data transfer - Green (Other options: Golden blue, yellow, red, blue).
Land - Black (Other options: Golden-green, green, white, blue).
You can unambiguously judge about the correct splitting, while looking at the letter marking of the wiring in the place where they are soldered to the printed circuit board (unless, of course, they are not divorced from the board). The opening and stirring of wiring most often happens in the location of the wires on the outlet of the mouse housing. It is indirectly to check the presence of a cliff, pulling out the wire and trying it to bend in dubious places (in the place of the cliff it will be easier). However, in order to judge certainly, you will have to remove the insulation, carefully cutting it with the blade.
Having found a place where the wiring is interrupted, you need to restore their integrity by soldering or twist. Photo of the finished twist, as it should look:
After the splicing of the wires, it takes them from each other with a tape or scotch. You can try. So as not to burn the port, connect or disable the mouse when the computer is turned off! To exclude all doubts with a breakup, try moving all the contacts of the USB plug (or PS / 2) using a multimeter. After repair, the mouse should earn.
Optical mouse sensor does not work
Often the situation also happens when we cannot accurately hover the cursor to a certain point. He is constantly trembling and moved by himself. This situation explicitly indicates clogging of the optical group of the mouse. The clogging is most often external. In the compartment, where the light of the diode is reflected from the table, dust or hair falls.
To get rid of such clogging, you do not even need to disassemble the mouse. It is enough to flip it and blow it. In the extreme, take advantage of a small tassel to remove the sticking garbage.
If, after such manipulations, the mouse cursor is trembling, then most likely that either the sensor clogged inside, or was completely out of action.
In any case, you can try to disassemble the mouse and clean the sensor with a toothpick with a wrapped with a cotton with alcohol:
Before cleaning the sensor, you can also try to blow it in order to blow the fine dust that can stick after wetting. After that, gently without pressure, we enter the toothpick by rotational movements into the sensor hole. Having made a couple of flares and without stopping rotating, pull out the toothpick, wait for the drying of the alcohol and try to connect the mouse.
If, after all attempts to clean the sensor, the sensor does not work normally, then if there is a different mouse, soldering iron and direct hands, you can fall out the non-working chip and replace it with a sensor from another mouse.
Scrolls Koloysiko Myshka
It happens that the mouse works fine, but when you try to use it with a wheel, the page that we scroll, begins to jump up, then down, or does not want to rush at all. Alas, the outlet of the wheel of the mouse is a fairly frequent breakdown and it was she who prompted me to write this article. First you need to carefully consider how uniformly the wheel is spinning in the groove. The groove itself and the wheels axis have a hexagonal cross section, but sometimes one or more sides of this hexagon can be deformed, as a result of which the axis slippage will be observed in a problem location.
If you have such a problem, it is solved by sealing the edge of the axis of the wheel of a scotch tape or a tape in small quantities. If, with the movement of the wheel, everything is fine, the breakage occurred inside the encoder (scrolling sensor). From long use, he could break through and should be slightly compressed:
To do this, take small pliers and take turns. Press them four metal brackets that the encoder is attached to the plastic details of the scrolling mechanism. Here the main thing is not to overdo it and do not break the fragile plastic, but at the same time sucking more. Try to connect the mouse and check whether the negative effect has decreased when scrolling after each tap.
There are some more options:
Disassemble and clean the mechanism
Replace the mechanism from another mouse (with another malfunction)
Do not work mouse buttons
Any button has its own routes. Typically disappears from the left mouse button. The mouse has several buttons: left, right and under the wheel. They are all the same. The non-working button is practically not repaired, but it can be replaced from another mouse.
The microswitch has three "legs", the first of which is free, and the other remains - contacts that you want to solder. Sometimes the button still works, but does not work at each press. Such a symptom can be alarmed that from frequent use erased the edges of the push button, which presses a microswitch or bad contact inside the contact plate switch.
We disassemble the mouse and carefully study the problem button and its pusher. If you see a small dent, then the problem may be in it. It is enough to pour the flushed place of the epoxy resin or molten plastic. At the same time, while the switch was disassembled, you can clean the contact group.
The last problem with which you may encounter - the mouse button makes a double click when you click on it - the so-called stray of contacts. You can solve this case with a microswitch or ... programmatically!
In any case, before you take for a soldering iron, check the mouse settings in the Windows Control Panel:
According to the standard of dual-click speed, the center must be located in the center, and the layer of the mouse buttons is disabled. Try to set such parameters and check whether the problem was solved. If not, another radical programmatic method of "treatment" double click - delete the mouse driver.
Mice - Some of the most active computer devices used. Therefore, it is not surprising that they often fail. However, due to the simplicity of their device, it can fix the mouse in most cases each! To do this, it is not necessary to be able to solder or understand the electronics.
The main thing is to clearly diagnose the cause of the breakdown. Here, as in medicine, the correct diagnosis is the path to successful repair. I hope our article will allow you to determine what exactly broke in your mouse, and therefore, and fix the breakdown.
Successful repair!
We remind you that you can order in one of the relevant from our catalog .
Computer mouse - This is an electronic manipulator intended for remote control The operation of the computer programs by activating the cursor moving around the monitor screen following the movement of the mouse over the surface. To control the mouse housing, install at least two keys and the wheel, allowing you to scroll through the pages in the vertical direction.
By way of connecting to a computer mouse there are wired (connected with flexible cable PS / 2 or USB connector) and wireless.
The photo shows a wireless mouse. As you can see, she does not have a wire for connecting to a computer. In wireless mice, the exchange of information is carried out using radio frequency. In the USB port of the computer, a laptop or tablet, a transceiver is inserted, providing a two-way connection of the mouse with a device through the ether.
The following disadvantages are inherent in wireless mice: - They are more expensive, harder and require additional attention, as it is necessary to periodically replace the seed batteries or charge batteries.
Optical computer mice are very reliable and able to serve for many years. But over time break, and you have to replace the mouse or repair yourself, since the repair in the workshop will cost more the cost of a new one.
Wired mouses fail, in the overwhelming number of cases, due to the wire oven at the exit place from the housing, and the wireless due to the discharge of the battery, battery, or contact disorders between its outputs or contacts in the container due to their oxidation. Over time, any mouses fail due to the wear of the buttons, usually the left, as the most frequently used. For repair, the mouse must be disassembled.
How to disassemble a computer mouse
In order to disassemble the mouse for repair, you need to unscrew the fastening screws from the bottom side. It usually happens one, but there may be several. In this model, the mouse of halves is bonded with one screw.
If visually screws are not visible, then most likely they are closed with a label or hidden under the spikes. It is necessary to gently pressed on the label throughout the area. If, in which, or place, the label begged in the form of a circle, then the screw is most likely, and the screw is hidden. This mouse has a screw hidden under the label that had to be partially rejected.
In the model, for example, the TECH X-701 fastening is made using two screws, one of which is also hidden under the label. When you try to spare the label, it began to rush, the screw had to unscrew, having done a hole in the label. The location of the prolque label is a screwdriver in the photo below, indicated, blue circle.
If it failed to detect the screws under the screws, it means that they are exactly sealed by the spyers. For access, you need to remove the scimensions carefully for access. At the end of the repair of the mouse, they will need to be glued to the place, as it will be worse to slide without the spikes.
After unscrewing the screws, it is necessary to push the halves of the mouse housing from the unscrewed screw in different directions and remove the top part on which the buttons are located.
The circuit board of the mouse is usually not fixed with screws and installed with holes on the plastic rods protruding from the case. But computer mice are found, in which the printed circuit board is adhered to small cogs to the case. If, when you try to remove the fee, it is not amenable to find and unscrew all the screws that are fixed. An example of a computer Mouse Tech X-701, which is fixed to the housing with a screw that locks simultaneously and an additional printed circuit board of the side buttons.
To remove the fee you need to pose it from below, at the same time removing the axis of the wheel from the bearing locks of the case.
When disassembling the mouse, remember how the items relative to each other are located. Pay special attention to the spring ratchet spring (if there is such). It looks like a span of clothespins, only the size is small and can be easily lost. If you do not like the wheel when the wheel is rotated, how the ratchet works, you can slightly adjust the tip of the spring, which is included in contact with the cloth of the wheel. The pressure will decrease and the wheel will rotate softer.
When disassembling and repairing the mouse, you need to ensure that it is necessary to avoid touching the hands to the surfaces of the optical prism and other elements of optics. If there are randomly touched on the surface there were labored traces, then they need to be removed to be removed with a special composition with a napkin for wiping optical parts. In no case is not allowed to use for cleaning, of any solvents. If there is no special napkin at hand, simply erase the traces of the mud soft cloth.
Repair of a wireless mouse
The main reason for complete inoperability wireless mice are the served batteries (batteries) or bad contact of their conclusions with electrical scheme Mouse. Since the lasers have many models of mouse models in the light range, it is enough to turn on the mouse to determine the batteries and look at it from below. If the red glow is emitted, it means that the batteries are in order. Otherwise, the repair should be started with checking batteries and the quality of their contact with the electrical circuit of the mouse.
In order to get to the batteries, you need, for example, as in this mouse, click on the "Open" button, after which the battery cover is released, and it will open.
If the Laser operates in the invisible zone in the mouse, then you can only check the power of the power source or measuring the voltage on the outputs of the batteries.
In the long working mouse, contacts can be oxidized both on the outputs of batteries and contacts in the mouse. In this case, they need to be inspected and in the case of the detection of oxides, remove them with a rag moistened in alcohol or just thoroughly wipe to shine. Delete sandpaper from the contacts of the mouse is undesirable, since the thin protective electroplating coating will be removed from them.
As in a wired mouse
Repair hazardous wire
If when working the mouse, the cursor starts spontaneously moves, jump into any place of the monitor screen or hang, then with greater reliability it can be argued on the violation of the integrity of the wire at the place of exit from the hull. Check it easily, you need to press the wire to the case and if temporarily recovery is restored, it means that it is accurate in the wire.
If during the inspection of the wires at the place of exit from the body of the computer mouse, its physical damage was found, then the cause of the inoperability is obvious. Here is an example of such damage. The photo shows that the double outer sheath of the wire is damaged, and some conductors of the type of tinsel are fluttered.
In the presence of skills soldering the soldering iron, computer mouse With a flutter wire, it is not difficult to repair, doubleing its service life. Repair is to remove the damaged area of \u200b\u200bthe wire and sealing, the newly prepared ends of the surviving part of the conductors in the printed circuit board.
How to repair the riser wire mouse soldering
The wire connecting the computer mouse with the connector is two species - made of ordinary fine stranded copper wire and wires of type tinsel. Mishur type wire is more elastic, therefore it has high resistance when bends and serves longer.
Entering the mouse housing, the wire passes along and connects to the printed circuit board. There are two types of compounds, a detachable connection or pressing a block that is soldered into the fee. In the photo, the pad dropped from the printed circuit board with the conductor pressed into it.
In independence from the method of connecting wires with a circuit board of the mouse to know how to repaid when repairing, you need to take a picture or draw, what color is the wire with which contact is connected. Then drop out of the board of the connector (it is better not to disconnect, it is easier to fall out) or a block. There is no international standard of column scheme for mouses, and each wiring color manufacturer chooses at its discretion. I had to repair a lot of computer mice and everywhere wires from the same conclusions of the connectors walked different colors. Obviously, this is due to the fact that the mouse is considered consumable, and repairing it after the end of the warranty period producers do not provide.
After winning the old wires from the circuit board of the mouse, it is necessary to free the holes from the solder to seal new wires. This work is easy to perform with a toothpick or sharp match. It is enough to warm up the solder at the location of the opening from the side of the circular conductors of the board and insert the tip of the toothpicks into it, remove the soldering iron, and when the solder will freeze the toothpick. The hole will be free to install the conductor in it.
To prepare the wires to install, it is necessary to cut off the exit of the mouse housing that came into disrepair of the wire 15-20 mm long. Remove insulation from the wires and strip the ends of the conductors of the shift. You need to browse the wires to put them on a wooden stand, while rotating in the same direction so that the irradiated wiring tips turned out to be round. Otherwise, they will be impossible to insert into the holes of the printed circuit board.
Insert the wires in the circuit board, in accordance with the sketched color scheme and pour the soldering iron.
Wires of the type of tinsel, it will not be possible to fill with the help of an ordinary ribbon flux, since the tape conduits are tinted with a layer of insulating varnish. It is impossible to use acid flux, as it will impregnate the inner thread of the Wire of Mishur and will destroy the conductors over time. The best flux in this case is aspirin tablet.
It remains to insert the lifted ends of the wires into the holes of the printed circuit board and to panice.
Sometimes there are mice in which the circuit board is double-sided with holes for wires of a very small diameter, and it is very difficult to free them from the solder. In this case, you can simply solder conductors to contact sites. Since the physical load on the wires is not applied when the mouse is running, the connection serves quite reliably.
Now you can set the printed circuit board in the base of the case and secure it with a screw, lay the wire and close the top cover. When installing the cover with the buttons, you need to trace so that the wire does not hit the buttons pushers, between the pairing the housing and did not touch other moving parts. Before assembling the mouse, it is necessary to remove dust and hair, which for long term Operation is stuffed through the gap between the wheel and the body is quite a lot. The repair is completed and the computer mouse is ready to work again.
How to repair the stuck mouse wire twist
Reliable than soldering the wire will not repair, but not everyone can solder, but if you can, then you don't always have a soldering iron. You can successfully restore the operation of the mouse and without a soldering iron, the twist of the wires. The mouse disassembles and the plot of rolling wire is cut.
Conditions from the cut shell of the wire are carefully retrieved. Wire shell is not cut, it will still serve.
Conducts the length of the conductors in such a way that when the twist, the twist place was shifted relative to each other by 8 mm and the ends of the conductors are determined from the insulation for a length of 5-8 mm.
The ends of the conductors of the same color are tightly twisted with each other.
The resulting twists bend along the conductors, and the conductors are refilled into one of the previously crashed wire shells. When refueling, you need to pay attention to that the twists will touch each other.
A pair of isolation turns will exclude a random touch of twists to parts on the mouse board and give compound sufficient mechanical strength.
It remains to insert the wire connector into the opposite part on the mouse circuit board and lay the wire in the case.
Close the top cover, screw the screws and you can start working on your computer. The wire renovated in this way will serve another period. Sometimes the system unit is installed away from the workplace, and the wire length of the mouse lacks to work without its tension. On the above, the proposed technologies can successfully increase the wire to the desired length, taking the wire from the old mouse. Since there is no single color standard for wires, you need to pre-define a call, which color of the wire is connected to what number in the connector.
To increase the service life of the mouse, it is necessary to ensure that the wire in the place of exit from the housing of the mouse during the manipulation of it is not very flex.
If the mouse wheel has become bad to rotate
Sometimes when the wheel of the mouse is rotated, the scrolling of pages occurs with jerks or one of the sides does not move. One of the reasons is the hit of dust and hair between the photo sensor and the photodetector of the Wheel Optocreter. The dirt enters the mouse housing through the gap between its body and the wheel and sticks to the axes of the wheel, as they are covered with lubricant to improve sliding.
After removing dust and hair, the performance of the mouse wheel is recovered.
Repair the mouse button
If when you click on the left or right button, the reaction does not always occur or does not happen at all, then the reasons may be two. Wear a button in the touch point with a microswitch pusher or its failure. In order to understand the reason, it is enough to disassemble the mouse and inspect the place of the button in contact with the pusher. If there is a millimeter recess, then the reason is possible.
When you press a finger to the pusher, a clear and ringing click should be heard. If the sound is deaf, then it is possible in the switch. To check, you need to connect a mouse with a removed upper half to a working computer and undermine your finger on the pushers of microswitters. If it works normally, it will be enough to eliminate the work on the button any affordable way, for example, the melting of plastics, epoxy resin drops. If the case is in the microswitch, then you will have to replace it.
In the overwhelming majority of mice, the microswackers of standard sizes are used. The microswitch is arranged and works as follows. In the plastic case, three plates from brass complex configuration are pressed, which end in pin to the seal in the printed circuit board. The left (in the photo) plate is the middle point of the switch. It put an extra thin brass plate with p onto the bottom of it.
The left side of the thin brass plate engages the ledge on the left side of the left contact plate, and the right, curved arc, engages for the right ledge of the left contact plate. A thin flat plate is set in such a way that its right end pulls up always up, and it contacters the right thick plate having a rigid shape.
When you press the button, the button pusher transmits an effort to a thin plate, it moves down, departs from the top contact and comes into contact with the bottom, the output of which is in the middle of the button. After stopping the pressure, the thin plate returns to the top initial position and connects again the extreme contacts of the microspector. Thus, with a not pressed button, the extreme contacts are interconnected from the bottom from the button, and when pressed, the left and medium are connected.
Over time, the metal accumulates fatigue, the arcuate spring is deformed and partially loses its spring properties. Here is the button and stop working. You can try to repair the microswitch, for what to disassemble it, remove the arcuate spring and straighten it a bit. But having a stock of old mice to this repair I did not have to resort. Although the buttons in the keyboards at the dawn appearance of computers repaired many times, each button worked on the same principle as microswitters in mice.
Therefore, if the old ballpiece has been lying around, it is more expedient to fall out of it a microswitch to replace the failed. Find out the best one that is installed under the wheel. It is rarely used and, as a rule, is correct.
If there is no wheels, then take the microswitch of the right button. Before falling out the microswitch, pay attention to how it is installed. In microswitches, the conclusions are located symmetrically and when installing it is easy to make a mistake. If there is no old mouse, then it is permissible in the repaired mouse to change the microswitches, from under the left button to the mounted under the wheel. And if a completely hopeless position, you will have to do the repair of the microswitch.
Computer mouse is a manipulator that allows the user to control the cursor on the screen. This device is quite reliable and with careful use and proper care can be stopped for many years. Very often because of the existing trifling and here the owner itself chooses what to do next: throw away the old manipulator and buy a new one or try to find out the cause of the breakdown and repair your assistant. There is already a question arises how to disassemble the mouse to get to its internal mechanism.
There are several of the most common types of breakdowns of computer mice that can be repaired. This may be the wire oven when leaving the case, if the mouse is wired, the button is usually left, because it is used more often, or poor wheelchair operation. These are the breakdowns that can be corrected and extend the life of your assistant.
Although the device of the manipulator seems simple, but still there are problems with how to disassemble the mouse. Depending on the model, it is bonded by one or two screws. In some devices, the screw is in plain form, but most manufacturers fasteners are hiding under stickers or spikes for a more aesthetic look. Therefore, in order to detect the screw, you must carefully examine the sticker for the presence of deflection in the form of a circle if they are, then you need to say it, if there is no, then you need to look under the spikes. The latter should be carefully taken carefully, to put back to the place, otherwise the mouse will not slide well on the rug.
Unscrew all the screws, you must disconnect the housing of the manipulator to halves and remove the upper part. How to disassemble the mouse further, in most cases there are no questions, because it is usually unpacted by anything, but in some models it can be screwed with small cogs, so you need to be attentive. If the board is not removed, then all available fasteners should be unscrewed.
The mouse can be attached on the latches, for their definition you need to walk on the joint of the halves to the screwdriver and open them. When disassembling the manipulator, it is important to accurately remember how the details are located, then to collect them correctly. It is impossible to touch the optical prism, as well as to other elements of optics. If still failed to avoid touch, then dirty traces need to wipe the napkin with a special fluid to clean the optical parts.
Many users have a question how to disassemble the mouse if she is wireless. First you need a computer. Wireless mice For laptops, it is disassembled almost the same as wired. In the center of the manipulator is a silver button, you need to click on it, remove the lid and remove the AA batteries.
Jewelry screwdriver should unscrew all attachments. It is also necessary to get rid of the rubberized base located on the lower surface. This can be done using a nail file. The mouse should be divided into two parts. At the bottom there is a board, scroll wheel and antenna. To pull the board, you need to unscrew the four bolts. After that, the mouse is fully ready for inspection and repair.
If you broke a computer mouse, do not hurry to buy a new one. It is possible that you can independently fix the breakdown and the device will serve you for more than one year.
Flamelit Sensor Mouse
Often the situation also happens when we cannot accurately hover the cursor to a certain point. He is constantly trembling and moved by himself. This situation explicitly indicates clogging of the optical group of the mouse.
The clogging is most often external. In the compartment, where the light of the diode is reflected from the table, dust or hair falls. To get rid of such clogging, you do not even need to disassemble the mouse. It is enough to flip it and blow it. In the extreme, take advantage of a small tassel to remove the sticking garbage.
If, after such manipulations, the mouse cursor is trembling, then most likely that either the sensor clogged inside, or was completely out of action. In any case, you can try to disassemble the mouse and clean the sensor with a toothpick with a wrapped with a cotton with alcohol:
Before cleaning the sensor, you can also try to blow it in order to blow the fine dust that can stick after wetting. After that, gently without pressure, we enter the toothpick by rotational movements into the sensor hole. Having made a couple of flares and without stopping rotating, pull out the toothpick, wait for the drying of the alcohol and try to connect the mouse.
If, after all attempts to clean the sensor, the sensor does not work normally, then if there is a different mouse, soldering iron and direct hands, you can fall out the non-working chip and replace it with a sensor from another mouse. However, it already requires a certain skill, so not everyone can turn it out ...
Scrolls Koloysiko Myshka
It happens that the mouse works fine, but when you try to use it with a wheel, the page that we scroll, begins to jump up, then down, or does not want to rush at all. Alas, the outlet of the wheel of the mouse is a fairly frequent breakdown and it was she who prompted me to write this article.
First you need to carefully consider how uniformly the wheel is spinning in the groove. The groove itself and the wheels axis have a hexagonal cross section, but sometimes one or more sides of this hexagon can be deformed, as a result of which the axis slippage will be observed in a problem location.
If you have such a problem, it is solved by sealing the edge of the axis of the wheel of a scotch tape or a tape in small quantities. If, with the movement of the wheel, everything is fine, the breakage occurred inside the encoder (scrolling sensor). From long use, he could break through and should be slightly compressed:
To do this, take small pliers and take turns. Press them four metal brackets that the encoder is attached to the plastic details of the scrolling mechanism. Here the main thing is not to overdo it and do not break the fragile plastic, but at the same time sucking more. Try to connect the mouse and check whether the negative effect has decreased when scrolling after each tap.
Alas, in my case it was not possible to get rid of the jerks. Yes, the frequency and scatter in the jumps of the page decreased, but the jumps themselves did not completely disappear. Then I decided to approach the question of the seal radically and truly in Russian :) cut out a piece of thin but dense polyethylene from the batteries from the batteries and stuck inside the mechanism:
What is the most interesting, this manipulation helped! I only have to trim the excess strip length and collect the mouse :)
Do not work mouse buttons
The latter and the most annoying, breakdown is a non-working button. Lee, right or the one, that under the wheel is not important - they are all the same. It is important that the non-working button is almost not cleaned. You can only replace its microswitch, dropping the soldering iron non-working and putting a new one or borrowed from another mouse.
The microswitch has three "legs", the first of which is a regular retainer, and the other remains - contacts that you want to solder. The retainer is not needed. It serves only as "fool protection" so that you mistakenly insert a microswitch not the same side.
Sometimes the button still works, but does not work at each press. Such a symptom can signal that the edges of the button pusher flip from frequent use, which presses the microswitch.
We disassemble the mouse and carefully study the problem button and its pusher. If you see a small dent, then the problem may be in it. It is enough to pour the flushed place of the epoxy resin or molten plastic.
The last problem you may encounter - the mouse button makes a double click when you click on it. You can solve this case with a microswitch or ... programmatically! In any case, before you take for a soldering iron, check the mouse settings in the Windows Control Panel:
According to the standard of dual-click speed, the center must be located in the center, and the layer of the mouse buttons is disabled. Try to set such parameters and check whether the problem was solved. If not, another radical programmatic method "treatment" of a double click - delete the mouse driver. How to remove the driver is written.
conclusions
Mouses are one of the most actively used computer devices. Therefore, it is not surprising that they often fail. However, due to the simplicity of their device, it can fix the mouse in most cases each!
To do this, it is not necessary to be able to solder or understand the electronics. The main thing is to clearly diagnose the cause of the breakdown. Here, as in medicine, the correct diagnosis is the path to successful repair.
I hope our article will allow you to determine what exactly broke in your mouse, and therefore, and fix the breakdown. Successful repair!
P.S. Allowed to copy and quote this article Subject to the indication of an open active reference to the source and maintaining the authorship of Ruslana Toruschny.
Computer mouse is a manipulator or an input index device, with which PC users easily control the cursor on the screen. No matter how simple this device does not seem at first glance, it is not so easy to disassemble it. Consider several mouse parsing options.
You will need
- Screwdriver
Instruction
Instruction
- manipulator disassemble
Today I will tell you how to do minor repairs computer mouse . Many of you can ask: why? After all, today it is easier to buy a new mouse than to mess with faulty, and try to repair something there. And something will be right in your own way. But there are objects or things to which you get used to or tied up, and their replacement is not always equivalent.
The computer mouse is exactly the subject to which you are quietly get used to, and the replacement of the old rodent on the new is right there.
First of all, it is the feelings of the mouse in the palm of your hand, as well as the convenience and power of keystrokes. And if you use an expensive mouse, which you can't buy so easily in the store. In a word, you can always throw out the mouse, but try to give her another life to try.
To disassemble the mouse, you need to unscrew the screw, which is located in the rear bottom of the housing. In my design, it can be seen that the screw is located under the silicone "leg". And there are mice designs where such screws are closed with paper stickers, and to get to the screw the sticker usually pierce.
The tip of the screwdriver or scissors will refine the edge of the legs and dug it, pulling away. If you have a sticker, then pierce.
Now raise the upper part of the body and slightly pull on yourself so that it leaves the grooves located in the front of the base base.
In the following figure, arrows marked some elements that are most susceptible to wear, due to which the mouse begins to work badly. These are mainly microswitches and part of the USB cord at the entrance to the mouse housing.
2. Faults.
The first common malfunction is when you move the mouse, and the cursor stands on the spot, moving on jerks, or, you need to tell the mouse several times so that the cursor moves from the spot. Such a fault is manifested when the USB cable is shared at the inlet into the housing of the mouse from the multiple crossbar of the wire.
Eliminates it is simple and easy.
I cut off the damaged section of the USB cable with scissors or knife, indicated by the dotted line.
To make it convenient to work, take a fee from the case. To do this, you need to beat two latches that lock the card from behind.
Remove the upper cable insulation, and we clean the tips lived. Who has a soldering iron, ends lived.
Now all the veins of both ends of the USB cable are combined with each other. We take two veins of the corresponding color, for example, red, and twist, and if there is a soldering iron, you solder.
I had a heat shrinkage, and for the insulation of the compound, I previously dressed her on the ends. If there is no heat shrimp, then you can use the tape, scotch tape or any other flexible insulating material.
The next step is insulating the twist or spike lived, and then evenly put them in one line so that it turns out a large twist. As shown on the bottom of the pattern.
Now the twists are closed with insulating material. I again took advantage of the heat shrinking, so that it turned out beautifully. Although it is not fundamentally, since all the same, this beauty hides inside. But still.
If you solder a little, that is, another option, where you do not need to make twists or spikes. Here, the damaged section of the USB cable is simply cut off, it is cleaned, it is detected and soldered under the connector from the tracks. When soldering, the sequence of colors lived, which come into the upper part of the connector.
Second common fault - This is when you have to click the left mouse button several times to make any action. And it happens like this: you click once, and the click is doubled. Wine all this is the microswitch to which the left key presses.
In this case, we will need a soldering iron. Here we do this: we drop the microswitch of the left mouse button and the "wheel", and change them in places. The main mass uses only for scrolling pages, and as an additional button, very few people use. Therefore, this microswitch and put instead of the worn left.
The microswitch is falling easily, although it has three outputs.
Putting the soldering iron concerning both the middle and any of the extreme conclusions at the same time, while trying to raise this edge with your finger. It is not necessary to put pressure.
You should get approximately like this:
Now they are intercepting and dropping the opposite side of the microswitch, where it also raise it with your finger, and we warm with the warmness of two conclusions.
If it did not work from the first time, that is, the microswitch remained on the board, it means that we repeat the dropping procedure again: first we disappear one side, and then the second. When both microswitches are falling, we change them in places and go back.
Very often there are situations when part of the solder remains in the hole in which the leg is inserted.
If necessary, this is eliminated as follows: An ordinary needle or a needle is taken from a disposable syringe and is inserted into the hole from radio components, and from the tracks, it is a hole with a soldering iron. When the solder warms up, the needle will enter the hole and displacing the solder out.
Now only remained to assemble the renovated rodent in reverse order and rejoice in its work. When you put on a place to wear the upper part of the case, insert it into the grooves and slightly push forward so that it goes until it stops.
I think now you will not work small repair of computer mouse.
Good luck!
Instruction
Prepare a mouse to disassembly. To do this, disconnect it from and put on the table, turning the base upwards. Find the fastening screw on the bottom surface of the mouse. Screws are sometimes immediately visible, as they are often hiding under stickers. In this case, first remove all stickers from the base of the mouse.
Gently unscrew the fastening screws. Hats of screws on mouses are usually a cross shape, so the screwdriver need the same. Screws are located in the recesses, remove them will be easier for a magnetic screwdriver. IMPORTANT, after unscrewing, put screws in the prepared container, otherwise they will be lost.
Open the housing. To do this, hold the mouse with two behind the bottom and surface and pull the lid on yourself. Calculate the effort to not break the cover of the lid around. It is best to pull the cover up and a little left. Now you can blow the insides of the mouse from the accumulated and dust.
Remove from the base of the mouse wheel (scroller). There are different designs of fastening scrollers. More often, it is enough to pull up and wheel will come out with its fastening or latch. A lot of hair is often wound on the scroller axis. Remove these with a suitable tool.
Remove or microcircuit mouse. The board is attached by latches, or screws up with screws. Latches gently bent with your fingers. And unscrew the screws and put with the rest of the items. Easily pulling the board up, separate it from the housing of the mouse. All mice are finished.
The mouse assembly is carried out in the reverse order. There is a fee, scroller and lid to place. If you have latches, make sure that they all rose to their location.
Sources:
- Mach Oklick 404 L Optical Mouse Pros, Cons, Characteristics
Sometimes a computer mouse dramatically loses performance. This is due to the cable lapture at the hull itself. In such a situation, you have two options: buy a new mouse or try to repair the old one.
Instruction
Disconnect the mouse from the personal computer. Take a small cross screwdriver to disassemble a computer mouse. Find the fastening screws on its bottom surface. Remove them with a screwdriver.
Then try to remove the top cover of the case. Patty her subtle sharp object from the opposite entrance to the cable mouse. If the housing is not amenable to, it means there are hidden screws. As a rule, they are located under the rubber legs of the mouse. Remove gum from holes. Using a cross screwdriver, unscrew the remaining screws.
See under stickers. Fastening screws can also be hidden. Note that the sticker can only be expired warranty repair. Otherwise, repair your computer mouse in service center No longer succeed.
Save the rubber legs, because without them you will be very uncomfortable to use the mouse. So, to disassemble the mouse, remove the upper part of the case. Remove the scroller. It is usually equipped with a shaft fixed with one side in the detachable hinge. The other end of the shaft must be attached in the hole of the encoder.
Lift the shaft over the hinge and remove it from the hole. Unscrew all the screws holding the fee. Then remove the latches. After that, remove the optical overlay and lens from the board. Multi-contact connector Leave in the same place. Take the nippers, cut the wire before it is inserted into the housing.
Cut a damaged piece of cable to fix the mouse. Then check the contacts. Take a soldering iron. In accordance with the contacts of the contacts, you solder them to a multi-contact connector inside the mouse housing. After that, connect it to the computer. Look, whether the LED glows and if the reaction to the rotation of the scroller.
Then you can return to the old place the lens and check if the reaction to movement. If the mouse works properly, collect it. If not, check the correct soldering on the multi-contact connector. You may have left a jumper between the contacts.
If you ever organized meals for a laptop or cooking process near the laptop (there are also such), most likely, after these events, your laptop refused to work. Maybe it works, but under the key something fell from food. In order to pull the particle of your former food from under the key, you must disassemble the keyboard or remove only the key.
You will need
- Laptop keyboard, key removal tool (any thin and non-master).
Instruction
In order to proceed to clean the keyboard buttons, you must remove the keyboard. Most keyboards are disassembled from the keys. To then not make a mistake during, just take a picture of your keyboard or. Any key consists of:
- key playground;
- Lift keys;
- Spring element (not at all in all keyboards).
To quickly perform the process for removing the keys, any thin and non-war item can be suitable: hour screwdriver, thin seer, dental hook. The playground is connected with the latch. The compounds can be both mobile and non-movable. Using fixed connections, the key is disconnected from the keyboard housing. As a rule, it is at the bottom of the keyboard button. It is necessary to insert a hook between fixed connections, focusing that it goes between an elevator and a platform.
So you removed one button. If you need to do the same with several keys, do not forget their location. Use your picture or photocopy of the keyboard when the keyboard buttons is reversed.
Video on the topic
Personal computers For a long time, it is impossible to imagine without the keyboard and mouse that are the main intermediaries in the "communication" of the user with the technique. Unfortunately, the mouse breaks and begin to flure quite often. Computer mouse can be disassembled and cleaned.
Instruction
Disconnect from PC, but only when off system block. The housing of the mouse can be cleaned with a conventional wet cloth and small number liquid soap. But do not try to wash mushka under the jet of water. True, the hull itself after disassembly (exactly optical) mice can be rolled carefully. Just in mechanical mice, there is also a chip, which is not always possible to remove from the housing.
Take a small cross screwdriver and unscrew the small, which is in the recess below the housing of the manipulator. Typically, the housing consists of two parts. On the side of the screw can also have a small latch. Gently divide the housing without applying special efforts.
If optical, you need to gently wipe the glowing red "eye" in its lower part with a match with a rat or ear. You can also use a squeezed aircraft. Carefully remove a large chip from the casing of the optical mouse and free the plastic parts from dust, dirt and hair (). Remove the ball mouse, covered with rubber, and wash it with soap or wipe it with alcohol. Pay special attention to the mouse and its fasteners. There, too, the dirt often accumulates.
For mechanical removal of dirt, it is better not to use a knife or razor, but take a small plastic scraper. Carefully mischle the dirt with it where it is possible.
Having understood with dust and puffed mud, remove the fat from the rotating parts of the manipulator. You can make it a soft cloth without a pile impregnated with alcohol. Also wipe the alcohol all the insides of the mouse so that the dust is not accumulated longer.
Now you can collect mushka. Put the microcircuit (wheel) back and slam the case. See Do not overcover the wire. Tighten the screw and consider that the mouse is cleaned.
If during your computer, you suddenly begins to hurt the hand, which you hold mushka, pain is enhanced and does not pass long, you can "congratulate". This is a manifestation of tunnel syndrome, another disease of civilization. For severe pain and inability to continue to sit at the computer, the swelling of the tendons can be hidden, the defeat of the nerve of the wrist. It may even develop a chronic form of joint diseases. From how much you keep the computer mushkadepends on your health.
Instruction
Furniture on which you are sitting - chair or chair - must be with armrests that will provide the necessary support for hands and wrists.
Mouse mats are not an anachronism at all, especially if there is a special anatomical convexity for wrist. Use such a mouse is very convenient and correct. Therefore, purchase such a correct must.
Move the mouse is needed with your fingers, and not with your whole hand, especially - with the help of the shoulder. Keep mushka Beyond the edges with a thumb and a little finger, index put on left button, medium on the wheel, nameless - on the right button.
Video on the topic
note
If the tunnel syndrome is no longer just makes himself a felt, but really worries, urgently go to the doctor and do not delay the treatment.
Helpful advice
Learn to use the mouse with both hands. Changing the position will help avoid pain. In addition, it is useful for the development of coordination, posture. Change the functions of the left and right mouse buttons easily in the settings on the control panel.
Sometimes it is required not only to collect cabinet furniture, but also to disassemble it to transport it to another place. You can disassemble the table, having required tools And carefully studied his design.
